Flawless Matte Satin Paint Finish

A gloss paint finish on interior and exterior woodwork is durable and looks great. If you do a few coats (especially on the top) you won’t need to seal it. Just make sure that you let it fully cure before you use it. Hope this helps!! A good satin rub has the elegant look of brushed brass, and a well buffed gloss not only presents a glossy, reflective surface, but a perfectly smooth one as well. I probably don’t take quite as much care with painting trim as I do with cabinets, but if the trim is dark and you want it white, I definitely do the sanding, priming, and then use paint conditioner in the paint. It is inevitable that some of the surrounding areas will get some stain on them, do not worry you can touch these up afterwards.

If you can do a test area somewhere inconspicuous to see firstly that the paint and Varnish are compatible and secondly if the Varnish does provide the protection that you need. I absolutely LOVE your blog and this tutorial has given me the push I need to go ahead and finally try my hand at painting a piece of old furniture. You will not get a high gloss sheen (like you would when using lacquer, varnish or other topcoat) when using any oil finish. Plus, you can cause splashing with the brush as you’re moving the finish around.

Do not starve the wood, meaning you should not have to rub hard or often to get the surface wet, and if you are then re-oil your rag more often. The tabletop is cherrywood, has lots of light scratches and one deep one from a cat’s claw when it ran over the surface during a bad catfight (don’t even get me started). It was weird to essentially take all the shine and gloss off, and then put it back on, but my piece now looks glass smooth – better than before. After the first coat of the varnish, I went to lightly sand with 320 and sanded through both the varnish and some of the stain.

It doesn’t really matter too much how the paint goes on but once on lay the paint off in the same direction as the grain in the wood. I learnt it from experience…First I brush 2 coats of Poly (let the fist one totally cure before the second) then…I’m sanding with 400 (if it’s too rough – with 220 first and finish with 400). I use a plastic/foam plate as a way to distribute the paint on the roller-I dip the roller into the paint can and then roll it on the plate to get it even on the roller and to get some of the paint off the roller as well. Alway finish a scrap piece of wood from the project, to see the finished result.

Let’s not forget the spray booth or plastic to keep the paint out of areas it shouldn’t go, and various masks and deflectors to avoid overspray and potential lung damage from breathing the paint. Sanding also removes the surface glaze created by the heat from the factory’s planer blades as they come in contact with the natural resins in the wood. I was searching for an answer to why my cabinets that I just painted were so sticky. If you are going to paint with oil based or latex paint (basically any paint you would purchase from the hardware store), it’s usually a good idea to either prime or sand the piece prior to painting.

I had some very good results with patiently sanding my dried finish each time I applied another coat. To minimize grain raising, complete surface preparation sanding and dampen wood with a wet sponge or spray bottle prior to applying Top Coat. When using Water Based Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner, allow it to penetrate for 1-5 minutes, then remove any excess.

I find that on large surfaces (like the top of a dresser or table), it’s a good idea to use the roller just to get the paint on fast, and then go back over with the brush. We just got 3 slabs of 2 7/8″ thick x 10′ long with width varying from 40″ to 55″curly mango wood slabs which have natural color steaks( yellow, cherry red, purple, green, black heart) in them from the minerals/silicon takeup from the Big Island of Hawaii. I recently acquired (2) 1950 – 1960 mahogany (red wood) oversized end tables/coffee tables (3’x3’x3′) imported from Hong Kong and were stained BLACK. The short handle makes it easy to paint the inside of cabinets without a long handle hitting the shelves.

If I were shooting it with lacquer for a topcoat, I’d save the last coat until after it was all assembled in case the finish gets scratched and dinged during the assembly. Varnish becomes considerably thinner, allowing it to spread more easily and so there is much less chance of runs. The binder is a finish resin, either an oil-varnish or an acrylic, and the carrier materials are the solvents, mineral spirits with oil-varnish, and water with acrylics. A paint extender is an additive that you add to your paint that extends” the open time for painting.

If I was using latex paint, this would have been a concern for me, but with using Chalk Paint, I knew I could take my 200 grit sandpaper afterward, and strategically sand in a lateral direction, and sand down the high points of the paint. With this in mind, the following is an overview of a number of consumer-level wood finishes, as well as my honest assessment as to which ones work best, and when.

Then when I get the edges adequetely sanded I will then go over it very briefly with the big part of the sanding block just so that the scratches on the edges will match the direction of the scratches on the rest of the case. I use a no VOC primer (I’ve always bought low and no-voc paint products, even back when they had to be special ordered because they weren’t popular yet) and a foam brush. If you live somewhere that is more humid and wet, you might not need any water to get a super smooth finish, or you might need more if you’re painting in extremely hot weather.

In turn, any mahogany project can look like it has different shades and colors when its ready for the finish. Ideally you want to get all of those out, but doing so without cutting through to the primer would be nearly impossible so I just get it as good as I can on the last color coat while making very sure that I don’t sand enough to cut through. Clear finishes are intended to make wood look good and meet the demands to be placed on the finish. I have done all the steps above (as I have used oil based paint in the past) and everything but the top of the dresser looks great.

For instance, this Coca Cola chair that I painted for my shop (and no, this is not for sale – I painted it for myself to sit on – so don’t get crazy about copyright issues!) Anyway, when I painted the lettering I applied my paint and in some areas, the white paint was heavier (thicker) than in others. If there’s any dust at all left on the piece, the primer and paint will not stick.

Wood filler is definitely a miracle, and can be the thing that keeps a piece from ending up at the curb. It smoothes out the dried Minwax® Stainable Wood Filler, removes minor nicks and scratches, and opens the pores of the wood to accept more stain. Let dry over night and then protect it with a light coat or two of non-yellowing water based polyurethane. Using an HVLP sprayer (cup gun) is slower but you get great control but it will take more coats.

My first advice would be, don’t even think about doing it yourself – get a professional in. But if you insist, and want to hire a floor-sander for the weekend, then first sink all the nail-heads at least 5mm using a hammer and punch, otherwise you will rip up 50 quid’s worth of sanding sheets in the first half hour. If the paint is too thick there will be very little flow and it will dry with a bristle texture from the paintbrush rather than flattening out.