Editor’s note – This post and video originally appeared in The Wood Whisperer Guild , an innovative and high-quality website with tons of woodworking information. Was just gonna buy another planer/ thicknesser but always remembered, how when I used to work in a joinery, one of the very first steps in dressing timber (ready for the cabinet makers), was to run the raw stock timber, over the shop jointer BEFORE doing anything else. When I am faced with a lot of material that needs to be removed, especially over a large area, I start with my power planer. The electric planes are not great at much else but trimming doors etc and even then you can do it more accurately and leave a better finish with the handplane, with hardly any difference in the time it takes.
Custom ordering wood from a supplier is always an option, but it can be costly or complicated if you have very specific or unique needs. The best selection of how-to articles, project plans, videos, and tips on Hand Planes from the most trusted source of woodworking and furniture making. The removal gauge bar is full width (13”) so if you are operating with narrower wood, you can place it anywhere on the planer.
Typically, planer blades are set perpendicular to the length of the plane, but the Festool and Ridgid planers skew the blades by spiraling them around the cutter head, which effectively lowers a blade’s angle of attack without thinning its leading edge. As a hand tool user, when working stock up for a project, I change hand planes numerous times during the process. Also, it is more difficult to get true, flat, square timber with a small planer. It’s also quite lightweight on your hand thanks to its six pounds of overall weight.
You shouldn’t settle for a cheap thickness planer; you should go for a cost-efficient and value-added one instead that’s a perfect fit for your any rate, thickness planers fill in the gaps left by handheld planers. The twin planer blades can plane up to 6-3/4 inches in a single pass, and is precision machined for stability and dependability. So make sure that you buy the best planer that has the ability to completely eliminate the possibility of snipe.
It’s in the opinion of this review that the Black & Decker 7698K Planer exemplifies some of the best features of a typical Black & Decker tool in that it’s able to compromise reduced power and speed with increased adaptability and enriched features that no other planer has. For one thing, you can pick up a perfectly usable 13″ portable planer for well under $500 so its less expensive than the smallest jointer I’d consider buying which is an 8″ (mine is a factory reconditioned DJ-20 and was around $1,400).
There are a lot of different hand planers out there so we have written some unbiased hand planer reviews on some of the best planers on the market. Thanks in advance, for your replies….I’m an idiot but do have some fundamentals with wood working….nothing like you guys but I do enjoy tinkering. Planer and thicknesser combination units are often used in professional and home environments, and as such there are a range of different products in order to suit individual needs. One of the best benefits of the hand planer is the fact that it is an inexpensive tool.
I start with a long plane equipped with a convex blade which allows me to work fairly quickly, then I progress to a shorter plane with a straighter blade for a more even surface. A thickness planer is used to create wood pieces that have a uniform thickness, and it is especially useful for renewing warped pieces. So if you’re looking for an all-rounder, then our best pick, the DEWALT DW734 15 Amp Benchtop Planer is perfect for you. The Makita 1002BA is a curved base planer that allows for easily making arches in your wood.
Coincidentally, I recently put up this little tutorial about making and reconditioning wooden planes: -tutorial The plane I’m making is a Luthier’s convex-soled palm plane (used by instrument builders for shaping curved work, like violin/ cello tops and backs), but the basic ideas would scale up to make any size of plane. Our testers found the best planers with table extensions more productive than the ones without this great feature as table extensions offered additional support and an effortlessly gentle flow of the wood being dished out into the best planer.
Built with a robust 6 Amp motor that powers it to provide up to 34,000 cuts per minute, the WEN 6530 deserves to be included among the top rated hand planers 2016 It is geared with 16 positive depth stops that adjust the cutting depth from a range of 0 to 1/8 inch, which ensures a consistent result on the stock. Once you have a established one flat face on the board, flip it over and place the flat surface down on your planer.
As the wood board is fed into the device, the in-feed roller carries it towards the blades of the cutter head. That being said a hand plane will probably serve us average guys a lot more than a power plane. If you don’t, I’d listen to the advise above and build a jointing sled for your planer. The Porter-Cable PC305TPR is an affordable benchtop planer that offers nearly all of the most important features in one device.
Longer battery life with a splendid overall performance, the SKIL 1560-01 is your perfect choice for a a dependable yet inexpensive hand planer for those final finishing touches that any woodwork always seems to need. A planer seems easier as you say you get a few goes not put it right, where as with a circular saw you don’t get a second chance really! If you can wait a few days I may be able to offer a comparison test, I own and have used the bosch planer for several years now and have used it quite a bit, at least once or twice a month.
It’s a smaller stationary planer version you can carry around or put in your tool box. The shape of the tool also makes it difficult to get an even cut without chipping the wood. In the normal process of dimensioning lumber you normally joint a face flat first and then plane the opposite side. On the other hand, since it uses only the hand, finishing and leveling the wood depends on the skill of the user and typically leaves the wood with lots of chipping.
Try all day but it just wont happen, you will go through a lot more wood trying to use a power planer first. Often called the workhorse of planes, the block plane is used for truing up end grain on boards ends, creating chamfers on edges, trimming tenons, etc. My experience says if Doug does a lot of general woodworking, get the planer first. Bevel a door edge to a precise 5-degree angle using an adjustable fence on the planer. Then find a no. 7 plane and hit the High points on the opposite side, basically jointing the side, then get a smoothing plane no. 4, and smooth the side. When your planer is running, carefully feed the wood into the planer in a straight, controlled motion.
Although I bought my jointer first (Ridgid special from the Home of Despots), I would have most likely received more benefit from having the planer first (once again, a 13″ Ridgid special from the Home…I see a theme developing). This appears to be the less powerful version of the 7 amp Dewalt hand planer (which I would have bought if I had noticed it- that’s what happens when you buy tools in a rush without researching).
Because of this, you’ll want to use your planer for smoothing wood surfaces only if the flatness of the opposite surface is assured. If you have a lot of material to remove, consider starting with a scrub plane, a narrow plane with a deeply curved blade that excels at fast stock removal. Why, here is the why: making sleds for the planer is hard, they are NEVER true, can NEVER make a twisted board truely parallel. While we were sad to set our trusted Skil aside this new planer was just too much fun to use. The history of the wood planer is almost as old as the art of woodworking itself.
Still, if you are only going to handle a single project and need to do it with a minimal investment, the Stanley 12-404 No. 4 Adjustable Bench Plane with 2-Inch Cutter is a pretty good tool to use. A nice block plane is always handy in a woodworking shop but, if all you want to do is un-stick a couple doors, some 150 grit sandpaper wrapped around a flat block of wood will do ya.