Make sure to wear gloves while you are removing carpet, the staples can be very sharp and may cause injuries. If the wood risers are sturdy enough, you can adhere and screw in a 1/4″ thin backer board such as Hardiebacker cement board. They glued the panels over existing risers and ran a little caulk ($2.50) around the edges. After I install the landings and stringers, I face the stringers with 3/4 ply (glued with PL and screwed), to use as construction stairs during process. That stair is so much nicer (by light years) than anything i have seen in japan that isn’t owned by a corporation…it seems a shame to touch it at all.
Use a plate compactor to compact the wall rock starting directly behind the block and working in a path parallel to the wall, working from the back of the block, over the stair tread area, to the back of the excavated area. Install the riser making sure it is at the perfect height to butt what will be the bottom of the tread above it. A brad nailer is handy. We strongly advise you to read the recommended adhesives page prior to installing your new stair treads.
Both of my methods mount the stringers directly to the deck rim board or to a header set just beneath the rim board. A deck stairway is comprised of one or more pair of diagonal stringers or supports and numerous horizontal treads or steps. Most often, in new construction, the site-built stairs I’ve seen have skirt boards installed with the treads and risers butting into the skirt. From the base stair riser location mark the remainder of the stair risers and remove the soil to meet the base material requirements. As shown in the photo you can see how the stair nose needs to rest on the riser which should be cut flush with the surface.
To provide more solid support for the soon-to-be-installed risers, I decided to beef up the staircase by installing new, thicker plywood over the existing risers. The spindles got Behr bright white ($20/gal.). I love the contrast of dark over light, which makes the area visually pop. In SC, the standard, by-and-large, has been: site-built stairs with strings installed by the framer, and the finish stairs installed by the trim carpenter or stair builder who comes in after the fact. This project guide focuses on installing risers and treads for stairs with walls on both ends, so there are no balustrades or handrails to contend with for this installation.
Here you can see how thin the risers are, only 1/4”, but they do the job of covering the ugly, which was my main goal. Place the blocks on top of the compacted stair tread area making sure to allow for 6 in. (150 mm) of wall rock behind the blocks. Where I work, the grade at the end of a deck staircase often slopes, which means I have to establish where the bottom step will land before I can determine the overall rise of the stair. Beginning at the bottom of the staircase, dry fit the stair riser using the correct one in accordance with the numbered system.
Great choice on the runner,Hope Dash and Albert send you that for free, can’t get better advertising for your great idea of using it as a stair runner. The stair treads won’t have much to touch up either, those nails are countersunk and all I’ll have to do is add a little caulk to those and touch up with paint. For those that desire an appearance of handrail, balusters, treads and risers all being connected, an experienced stair builder is my suggestion.
One concern with working from the back of the stair is that I imagine there is a center stringer, so we’re talking about cutting pieces of backer to fit = 2x the labor. I live near Portland Oregon and the stock for the finished treads and risers is Oregon Myrtle Wood. Ok, a while back I posted here about having a stair skirt job to do, and was going to try the scribing method as described by Norm Yeager.
To install the nosing, apply a bead of construction glue to the subfloor (rather that the nosing itself) and press it firmly into place, with the tapered end overlapping the thread piece. One hand should always be left free to hold on to a handrail — and for some more vulnerable stair users, both hands should always be available for handrail use, especially when going down stairs. Your concern about the treads and risers being uneven doesn’t make the job undoable.
Good Morning your backer boars on your risers and set with your backerboard with thinset are you trimming the steps?I generally use a Bullnosed tile if they are available, otherwise a make my own oak stair noses and use a sanded caulk for a grout joint between the oak and the tile. You can check out all of the stair tread colors and species here We chose unfinished Red Oak so that we can stain it ourselves to match the laminate flooring we have been replacing the carpeting with.
There are no balusters or newels except on the doorway stair which is a wall on the right and open on the left with a between-the-posts installation on a rectangular section balusters and newel. When we removed the carpet back in October, Justin noticed that the old treads and risers weren’t glued down (like they should have been) which made our lives much easier. Principles follow that of risers when measuring, but a handy tool simplifying the procedure is the stair wizard.
Now, keep in mind, the method we are using is probably not the way a professional would do it. I was told that to do it the right way, we would need to tear out the old stair treads and build them up to be the exact same level that they were in their before state. Trim your first step to size, installing stair tread, using stair tread adhesive to glue it into place.