I have a lovely wooden bench on the porch that I got for free last spring, and it soon became my favorite coffee-sipping seat. The only exception to my dislike of non-water based paint, is if I have an especially shiny old baked on finish on furniture like the armoire , or a piece of Bali furniture that bleed heavily (like the white bench I painted recently) I will use a Zinsser Oil based primer or shellac based BIN Hint: I leave my paint brush wrapped in gladwrap in the fridge in between coats to save on cleaning.
I’ve also used Annie Sloan’s Chalk Paint on several occasions, on this console , this end table , and this dresser and each time it has performed very well for me. The nice thing about the AS Chalk paint is you can skip the primer step, but it is only available in limited colors, you must order it from a nearby stockist or online, and is more expensive at $39 a quart.
This is to make sure you don’t have any rough spots that will catch the paint as you apply it. Once you can feel the smoothness of the wood under your hand and you’re satisfied with your sanding job, you need to take a damp cloth (Don’t use disposable wipes, they often have chemicals in them that are abrasive to the wood.) and clean the piece of any sawdust that might remain on it from using the sand paper.
Unlike other chalk-based paint companies who use wax, they recommend a sealer called VAX which is an Acrylic resin varnish product that is incredibly easy to apply, mimics the mate look of wax, leaves a durable finish, does not require the work and buffing that wax does and does not need to be reapplied in most cases (recommended reapplication if used outdoors after 5 years as the UV resistance breaks down).
The course took place at the Bedruthan Steps Hotel in Cornwall, where, in a sunny workshop overlooking the beach at Mawgan Porth we painted, upholstered and deep-buttoned a footstool, all under the expert and unerringly patient tutelage of the folks from Tresithick Upholstery training It was the perfect location to learn: no neighbours to complain about the incessant hammering, and the opportunity to watch the waves while the paint dried.
And I do love Chalk Paint and haven’t tried my own recipe – I’ve heard mixed reviews on it….If you look at my Painted Furniture projects you’ll also see that I’ve done a ton of projects with paints like Behr Ultra 2 in 1 – I find that for ‘longevity’ these paints are pretty darned good – I’m just not as excited about the maintenance of waxed pieces – although the finish is freakin’ amazing!!!!!
Chemical staining of wood is rarely carried out because it is easier to colour wood using dye or pigmented stain, however, ammonia fuming is a chemical staining method that is still occasionally used to darken woods such as oak that contain a lot of tannins Staining of wood is difficult to control because some parts of the wood absorb more stain than others, which leads to problems such as blotchiness and streaking.
And a word about small foam rollers vs. brushes: according to experts, all rollers – especially if used too quickly- may rile up the paint and lead to bubbles while paint brushes are the most bubble free application method known to man (although you might have brush stroke issues if the paint isn’t applied thinly enough or given ample drying time between coats).
Just very lightly rough it up so the paint has something to adhere to. As for your pine table, here is a tutorial for staining that you might find helpful: -to-stain-furniture-the-basics/ If you opt to paint it instead, I highly recommend using wood filler on top of all of the knots as they will eventually bleed through, particularly if you use a light color paint.
Larger gouges and splits are best repaired by patching the void with a piece of wood that matches the colour and grain orientation of the wood under repair. This happens if I use a sponge brush, bristle brush or roller all of which are white in colour. As you suggested we used Bin Shellac Base Primer (we also sanded the chairs to the bare wood before applying the Primer). I sanded, primed with water based primer and painted with oil based spray paint.
Reason being, as you mentioned, water based products can raise the grain of the wood. Pigmented stains tend to highlight the grain (and also sanding scratches), whereas dyes do not have this effect and are more transparent. All the interior and the top of the buffet are in natural pine….don’t want to paint those areas. You can use an oil based poly, just keep in mind an oil based sealer will eventually yellow over time. Was advised by friends that painting ikea furniture would be impossible but I’m going to have a go after reading this. The reason is that they cannot use too much pigment, otherwise it ruins the binder.
Also, if your wood has a lot of knots, use wood filler to patch over those or they will bleed through. Don’t be tempted to skip this step…proper sanding will ensure an even, smooth finish that is not prone to chipping. Re-working furniture is like recycling paint, use existing resources before creating any new” alternative. It seems that latex paint like Behr” sold from Home Depot never cures satisfactorily for most furniture applications. Apply a second coat of primer, if necessary, to ensure a smooth base for your paint.
I have 3 types of businesses in my garage – staging, furniture – and a ton of paint, Venetian plaster…metallic plaster, Tuscan textures, tints, glazes, gold leaf etc (all for my decorative painting business). You can totally do it. There’s really no reason to live with wood furniture that’s not exactly the tone or the shade that you’d like. I’ve completed many painted wood projects in my own home and in my client’s homes.
I would not use Polycrylic because it’s a waterborne urethane and the jury is still out on exactly what and how well it will bond to certain things such as oil paint. That is controlled 100% by what the existing finish is, and what you put over that finish. Like I mentioned above, two of my favorite water based paints for furniture are the enamel paints by Benjamin Moore and Sherwin Williams, and you can have them tinted to any color. Fusion has the ease of use of chalk paint, but paints smooth like latex and seals the surface without any need of a topcoat.
If you don’t want to get it tested, then when you remove the old finish, you’d want to assume that there’s dangerous stuff in the finish and act accordingly (using appropriate protective gear). I have adopted the whole power sanding system too, but I still have this starter kit, and use it most days. You can apply more if the stain of your wood is bleeding through, but I rarely need to.
Because this is a ‘Waterborne Interior Alkyd’ you get many of the benefits of oil paint (great thick application and smooth finish) and the easy clean-up of latex paint. As I said earlier, whatever paint you choose, you can either apply it conventionally, that is to say flat and even, in a block colour and leave it that way, or you shabby chic your beautiful paintwork with a judicious sanding. However, after painting and antiquing the top, you will need to use at least two coats of NON-YELLOWING polyurethane.
Brush back and forth only enough to spread the paint and always in the direction of the wood grain or along the length of a previously painted surface. In general terms, water based eggshell paint still doesn’t do it for me when a 5 star finish is required on furniture that has never been painted before – UNLESS it is premium grade joinery. Also find out how to choose and prepare a workspace, strip away old paint, prepare the furniture for painting, and how to prime and paint. I usually start out using 80 or 100 grit sandpaper, especially if there’s a durable lacquer finish on the piece.
If that is the case, if it were me, I would have used an alcohol or water based dye on the wood. As for the scroll work, I would use a tiny artist’s brush to get in the nooks and crannies. Think your oil paint using professional grade Naptha(ask the paint store for it). Once it goes on, additives in the paint help it level out any brush strokes – when you stop brushing.
I know the girls who blog at 2 Bees In A Pod pretty well and if I were to try making my own chalk paint I’d try their recipe first. I see the primer that you recommend comes in both spray paint cans and gallon paint. If you’ve got a piece of furniture you want to paint and it’s going to get some serious use, you need oil based paint. We used Farrow & Ball All White Floor paint (which we also had left from painting our floor). Nicky Hancock of HK Art or Martin Dunn are 2 craftsmen on the list who also offer fine-artistic additions, and most offer decorative paint finishes. Sand the edges of the remaining paint around bare wood so they’re as level as possible.
I actually have two old dressers (as in I got them 20 years ago and they were already second or third hand!) that have probably more than a dozen layers of paint (I only painted them once, but who knows about the previous owners) and I really wanted to bring them back to their woody glory, if possible. You’re essentially making thousands of little scratches in the wood (which pretty much invisible to the eye) that your paint can stick to. Then clean away and dust before moving onto the next step. If the furniture you’re working on has non-metal surfaces, such as a seat on a chair, remove them if possible.