The objective of sanding wood is to remove mill marks, which are caused by woodworking machines, and to remove other flaws such as dents and gouges that may have been introduced in handling. I use wood glue and 110lb cardstock on my bigger rockets, and wood glue and printer paper or 65lb cardstock on my smaller LPR rockets. The blade (also called the iron) of the plane needs to be razor sharp before use – even new planes should be sharpened. After the stain dries for a few days, you can add a coat of furniture wax or wipe-on poly to really liven up the old wood. Follow the steps in this 149 minute woodworking video and you’re sure to end up with a tool you’ll be proud to own. The reason you have to sand wood before applying a finish is to remove machine marks.
Because of this, you’ll want to use your planer for smoothing wood surfaces only if the flatness of the opposite surface is assured. No matter whether you sand by hand or with a machine, always remove the sanding dust before advancing to the next-finer grit sandpaper. You can use a power sander, but work carefully because it can quickly cut into the soft wood. The Wood Glue and XTC-3D both took damage as shown – the Gesso and Flexbond did not. This plane is going to be doing rough work, so don’t worry about tuning it extensively. I already have most of the power tools needed..No idea where to start for hand tools..The big box stores around here don’t have much, and i cant find a small tool shop.
If you could sand just the right amount with each sandpaper grit, it would be most efficient to go through each consecutive grit—#80, #100, #120, #150, #180—and so on. But most of us sand more than necessary with each grit, so you may actually spend less effort skipping grits. When using tool push outwards across the surface and adjust pressure according to type of material you’re working with. The appearance and feel of the finish is all its own and has nothing any longer to do with how fine you sand the wood. Just make sure that you plane from both directions toward the middle to avoid planing over the edge.
In all cases when sanding by hand, it’s best to sand in the direction of the wood grain when possible. I don’t mean to take away from anyone who prefers to do their final smoothing with hand tools. A jointer plane (including the smaller fore plane) is between 18 to 24 inches (460 to 610 mm) long, and is used for jointing and final flattening out of boards.
The straight edge should sit flush against the face of the wood regardless of its position. For many beginners, I’d recommend asking lots of questions, checking out a Woodcraft class or demo, (or other local wood store), and start small. Some bullnose planes have a removable toe so that they can pull double duty as a chisel plane. I still use a planer and router, but I find a jointer plane is actually more accurate. Each plane comes with a manufacturer’s limited life time warranty and instructions for use.
It is recommended that three good coats of Woodoc Sealer are applied to achieve the best finish and protection of the wood. For this reason, pine is often called a ”blotch-prone wood.” Many woodworkers avoid this problem by not using any stain. Cons: Wood glue can be frustrating on curved surfaces, as it will pool or drip or run in areas, creating a wavy, rippled effect.
The trick to efficient sanding is to begin with a sandpaper grit that cuts through machine marks and other problems in the wood with the least amount of effort and without creating larger-than-necessary scratches that then have to be sanded out. The iron is held into the plane with a wooden wedge, and is adjusted by striking the plane with a hammer. Sealers are brush-on liquids that penetrate into the wood to limit the amount of absorption. Let’s look at doing a face, because that’s the other use of the smoothing and jack planes. Bring wood as closely as possible to its final shape and finish with a cutting edge—a plane, scraper, or power tool.
First, however, seal any knots in the wood with a coat of clear shellac; this will keep pigments in the knots from bleeding into the finish. F: The chipbreaker or Cap iron serves to make the blade more rigid and to curl and break apart wood shavings as they pass through the mouth. Note that surface planers generally require pieces of wood with one flat surface.
Unfortunately, catalyzed finishes can also make a closed-pore wood like cherry look like plastic laminate. Maintaining this angle, rub the blade around the sandpaper in a circle while applying downward pressure. Sanding with your fingers backing the sandpaper will cut away softer spring-growth wood faster than harder summer-growth wood. You’ll know you’ve created a unique and special tool the first time you put it to the test. Smoothing planes ran in size from the 6 8 smoothing plane, to the 12 17 jack plane, to the 60 72 coopers jointer. A smoothing plane is about 10 inches (25 cm) long and is the most versatile of all hand planes.
I ~did~ know enough to have the blade sharpened-and will probably hone it some more before I get really going with this tool (I can’t think of anything a dull bladed tool is good for, so I learned sharpening first off!)-but I haven’t a clue as to how to get it in operational condition, from the box. This is called ”tacking,” and is done by wiping the wood with a special cloth called a tack cloth.
If, in any position, your straight edge sits on the wood in a way that leaves gaps underneath it, you’ll know that the section of the wood your straight edge is making contact with is a high spot. A plough or tongue-and-groove plane has an adjustable blade guide allowing you to cut dadoes and rabbets for tongue-and-groove joints. If you are sanding a flat surface such as a tabletop, and you want to keep it flat, always back your sandpaper with a flat sanding block. Problems occur for three main reasons: The blade is not sharp, the tool is out of tune, or it’s not being used properly.
The most efficient use of sandpaper when backing it with just your hand is to tear the sheet into thirds crossways and then fold one of the thirds into thirds lengthways. Use a handled scraper, such as a scraping plane (not the Stanley 80) to maintain flatness if tearout is extensive. The slightest rocking motion will leave gouges in the wood that will take a lot of work to sand out. While it smooths it somewhat, the blade has some camber to it, and leaves shallow ridges in the wood. That cost me less than $50, including a new wheel and the parts and material necessary to build a tool rest.
As you apply downward pressure on the front knob and press forward with the back handle, push the plane across the surface in a smooth, continuous motion. For flat surfaces or things with lots of small details I’ll probably use Wood Glue or Flexbond. Adjust your plane so that your shavings are as big as possible, while still being able to move the plane. Planes have many uses; however, their primary purposes are surfacing or smoothing wood surfaces. I would encourage people to persevere with their knife work to get as good as they can with the tool cut finish. This involves gluing progressive grits of wet/dry sandpaper to glass or other flat surface.
Since coarse sandpaper leaves deeper scratches, start with the finest sandpaper that will tackle the project easily and work your way up to finer grits. Treat all areas equally, using the same progression of sandpaper grits for both hand and power sanding. This is a very important concept because it gets past all the contradictory instructions about which sandpaper grits to use. This plane is a Groz Smoothing Plane #3, 9.5″, with the traditional wooden handle and knob, and the cutter width being 1 3/4″ wide. Wood that is weather damaged and has blackened can be brought back to life using Woodoc Wood Reviver by following these steps.
I don’t think people should be afraid at having a go at restoring an old wooden bench plane. When your planer is running, carefully feed the wood into the planer in a straight, controlled motion. When the squeaking became a problem or plane seemed to ‘drag’, the sole of the plane was wiped over the pad in a backward direction. Are wickedly useful tools that all woodworkers should own, and many have no power tool equivalent.
On the return stroke, it’s OK to maintain contact with the board, but tilt the plane slightly on edge so as not to add needless wear to the cutting edge. A finish created by a clean cut with a sharp tool may appear rough to some people particularly if there are large facets or broad cut marks on a turned bowl. Although there are a variety of styles, four basic planes include the fore plane, jack plane, smoothing plane and block plane. They provide the wood with a warm glow and increase in durability when layered. You could start with a small one handed block plane using an iron from an old Stanley block plane.
And to support your idea, my skills have improved immensely when I finally tossed the sandpaper and had to stand behind my surfaces off the tools. That said, though, Veritas has a shoulder-like plane that can be a bullnose or chisel plane; that would be super sweet for working an assembly. A smoothing plane is not a complex tool, so it’s pretty easy to diagnose and cure the most common ills. It is therefore wise to practice on some scrap wood until you get a feel for what works best for you.
Double-cut files feature a second set of teeth that cut in the opposite direction and are used for more aggressive filing, shaping or removing rust from metal and smoothing wood. You can finish-sand both of these surfaces with #180 grit, for example, but you might begin with #80 grit on the solid wood and #120 grit on the plywood. I let the wood filler cure for a couple of hours before sanding and then applying the gesso (and yes it’s acrylic). Sand with the folded sandpaper until it dulls, flip the folded sandpaper over to use the second third, then refold to use the third third.