The next attractive thing is the price, the plane shown at the top cost £1.00 with the postage added it came to a grand total of £10.00! One of the main facts with wooden planes is that they were often made by the person who used them and so they were built to the owner’s specific needs. The last real improvement known as boxing-the addition of dense wood, generally boxwood, wear strips for fine details was in common use before well defined chamfers, shoulder treatment and skillfully executed features of the early 18th Century WOODING plane are apparent at a glance.
There are some late production wood bottom planes that have the Hand-y grip feature, similar to that found on the common metal block planes, milled into their wooden bodies. I liked the last 2 planes that I have made so I am going to start on 2 more, but this time they will be a bit bigger. The handles on these types of planes are fragile and often found broken off, and this is an idea that seems plausible and needed. In contrast to Continental Europe (except for Holland), where the great majority of planes have wooden bodies, almost the only planes seen in Britain and North America are made of cast iron.
Most planes are broadly categorized as either bench planes, block planes , or specialty planes. Once tuned up, metal planes will need little to no tuning up for a long time (that is a relative term, all depending on your use of course). Also generally metal planes have blade adjustment mechanism and may be easier for some people to use lateral lever and depth adjuster than relying on mallet to adjust the blade. I have Finck, Whelan and Perch and Lee and two videos on making side escapement planes (Herli and Williams) and of the lot my favorite is actually Perch and Lee.
The tote is based on the shape of the one on my Norris A1 panel plane, photo 11, although any shape of handle is easy to make and can be cut and shaped using bandsaw, rasps, files, seen in photo 12, and sandpaper. It’s not a grand collection but it’s all I need to take a rough board and make it flat and smooth. The place has expanded quite a bit since though and when I last visited, you could climb into various planes and get a idea what a pilot’s eye view would have been, so I thoroughly recommend it. But the Lie-Nielsen planes are $195 each and a vintage Stanley No. 48 or 49 plane will sell for around $20-$100.
Some planes, such as the Stanley Bedrock line and the bench planes made by Lie-Nielsen and WoodRiver/ Woodcraft have a screw mechanism that allows the frog to be adjusted without removing the blade. Also make sure that the plane hasn’t twisted- sight down the sole of the plane along the boxed quirk and make sure there is no deviation. As the protective film on new planes might stay plastic (soft) for some time, soil and grime would form on the surface. It is a real examination of the actual antique planes and considers how to produce them with tooling that is possible to use today.
General Features- Hollows and rounds are pretty straight forward- planes that have a concave or convex sole and cut either a hollow or round profile. Pair of German Stair Rail Planes These came from one of the David Stanley Auctions over in England some 20 years back. I don’t think people should be afraid at having a go at restoring an old wooden bench plane.
Scottish Infill planes (like this panel plane) have a great weight and amazing balance & sweet feeling handles. At first, woodworkers were resistant to the change, and so manufacturers introduced transitional” or wood-bottomed” planes around 1860, which offered the worn-in feel” of wooden planes but the more accurate blade-setting capabilities of the metal planes.
The better planes will have the nicker blade bedded in a mortise in the side of a the plane, a wedge holding it tight. Bench planes are characterized by the cutting iron bedded with the bevel facing down and attached to a chipbreaker. Having used these old jointers in the past I always found them too cumbersome to hold comfortably with blades that were approximately 65mm wide so I wanted to make something with a narrower blade which would allow it to be easily gripped with the left hand. Most of the planes offered below date from the 30’s or before, during the period that they produced high quality planes for the market that have become popular with both users and tool collectors.
Though most planes are pushed across a piece of wood, holding it with one or both hands, Japanese planes are pulled toward the body, not pushed away. There’s a lot to cover on them; I could fill a book on this subject so I’ll be bringing more about wooden planes soon. All of these old planes may appear crude compared to metal planes with their various adjustments, but in skilled hands they can be tuned to produce excellent results. But if you want a fantastic plow plane, go for a wooden screw arm plow plane with a variety of cutters.
Descent vintage half sets are fairly difficult to find (full sets are even more difficult…but you don’t really need a full set) so I just have my sites set on a making a half set, looking for obscure collectors, or eventually buying a half set from M.S. Bickford (one of the few people who make hollows & rounds now). Examples of these planes in succulently mint condition are very difficult to find, even more so in their original boxes. Catalog of American Patented Antique Tools A pictorial collection of antique planes and other tools showing some of the variety in styles. A friend bought Ron Hock’s plane kit and built up his courage to make one on his own.
While Old Street Tool planes are in museum and other collections our past and future tools were and will be produced with the intent of being used at a craftsmen’s bench. Memorabilia collectors and history buffs treasure the uniqueness and history of these Wooden Hand planes. In addition, I would bet one gets better economies of scale working with metal than with wood, which was very important to winning the war the way America fought it.
It is less usual to call this longer plane a Trying Plane these days, nearly all long planes are called Jointer Planes by most contemporary woodworkers (which is just fine by the way) however a Jointer Plane is longer than a Trying Plane. An old fore plane on the other hand can still be of use despite being worn – adding a camber to the iron will also make it more forgiving when setting it up. Instead of being expelled from the center of the plane and exiting from the top, these planes have a slit in the side by which the shaving is ejected.
De Havilland enlisted the assistance of carpenters, piano makers, cabinet builders, and other woodworkers who had been previously unable to make an appreciable contribution to the war effort. Joey, nice to hear that others can relate to the finickiness and the look & feel of wooden planes. Following on from the previous photo there are two more small transitional planes and a couple of small wooden smoothers. Make the oblong brass plate, photo 18, then rout out the front of the plane to the correct depth.
In this instance the sole was very slightly convex so whisper-thin shavings were taken off with the longest steel plane available, necessitating constant reference with a very long straightedge to make sure that the sole was true. In mainland Europe wooden planes have always proven ever popular and even today many woodworkers, especially in Germanic regions, continue hand work using wooden planes. You can also buy vintage wooden router planes (called Old Woman’s tooth” or Grandma’s tooth”) here on eBay or at a flea market. All the plans are PDF files contained in a zip file complete with printing instructions.
The next post will be what to do with your new/old Jack Plane when it arrives in the post or you collect it from the car boot sale. Later, near the end of their plane production years, (post WWII) they made planes for outfits like Sears / Dunlap and the quality slipped (as did Stanley’s) during these later years. The blade wouldn’t reach to the bottom of my 1 inch deep mortise that I’d chiseled on a 17th century jointer plane I was building.
All planes are made one at a time so we can customise any order to your specific requirements (i.e. different bedding angle, different timbers) We also have a small selection of Exotic timbers suitable for that special plane! The knob is secured directly to the wooden body by means of a regular wood screw, so don’t go thinking you can use the fastening means (a threaded rod and a slotted nut) as that found on the metallic planes as a replacement. Their simple wedged and laminated construction means they are relatively easy to make but that’s not the whole answer.
As a not for profit” woodworker, the time spent was not a problem and the combination of a metal plane to get close to a final finish, and a final couple of strokes with the wooden plane to reach a final finished surface is my best solution so far. The longer planes have the stronger fully enclosed handles, the jack planes have open handles and the smoother has none. All planes contain some metal (the iron) and most have wooden handles, so there is always some level of ambiguity.
For those interested in new wooden planes check out those made by Terry Gordon here in Australia Made with a variety of timbers, thick blades and to a very fine finish. Some how i dont think wooden planes would work today especially as modern planes go a far bit faster. Many of these holes and rounds can be classified in the category of side-escampement planes.
My grandad would be proud of me. That man would never throw anything out, ‘if you can’t use it to make or repair something you can alwways light the fire with it’ was his moto. If you’re keen to give it a go without spending a fortune then avoid the temptation to buy an old smoother from a car boot sale. This seems to be the only book that really tries to cover construction of wood bodied planes in the manner of originals. Wooden planes are a brilliant way to build up any hardware and tool collection. The quintessential combination planes are the Stanley 45 and the Stanley 55 (can do 10 more things, I think).