When you varnish outdoor wood your goal is to have your paint or varnish stick well to your old or new wood, last a long time, look beautiful and protect the wood. Chemical strippers – commonly called paint strippers – are an effective means of removing paint and varnish from wood furniture or projects. Quite thick requiring dilution, which means that there is a lot of solids unlike the domestic products, and a good deal of coverage. Mahogany is an open-grained wood that requires a quality filler stain on the bare wood to produce a smooth, glass-like appearance when varnished.
My goal is to get some varnish on every part of the area I am working on. If I miss a few small spots here and there, the next step should cover them. In other words, the only coat of varnish with near perfect durability is the one stored in a vacuum, in darkness, at a low and unvarying temperature. And because they penetrate and become part of the wood surface they don’t have to rely on a surface bond so they won’t peel.
After applying several coats, finish the job with two or three coats of good quality varnish; ideally, a two-part polyurethane. The oil becomes practically an integral part of the wood; both welding together, as it were. It’s seems to be that compression and time spent in the crate will eventually make odd markings on the varnish. I think any wood works, but just look for something that doesn’t have a lot of markings on it, or this will affect your end image. You have to do everything within one try, And avoid playing with the wood floor finish.
Note that the solvent’s rate of evaporation varies with the solvent so the cure time of a varnish is based upon the drying agent and the solvent type and amount. It actually takes several days, so it finishes curing after the first varnish coat has cured, and thus glues down the varnish with a flexible epoxy glue. A suggested technique is to sand the teak surface thoroughly, wipe down with a denatured alcohol, let dry, and apply a coat of 50% thinned varnish.
A gel varnish contains a thixotropic chemical agent, which makes it a gel that won’t flow until you physically disturb it, which means when using varnish on wood, it stays put until you actually spread it on the wood. The best all-around finish that looks pretty good and will hold up to harsh abuse is oil based polyurethane if you apply finishes by hand, and catalyzed varnish and lacquer if you spray.
The bubbles were probably created through the combination of using a porous material with some air entrapped (the slate and potentially the wood used for supporting the whole project) and the extreme heat it was subjected to when the resin might still have been curing (it can take 2 weeks for epoxy resin to be fully cured and stable). High school shop teacher tried to save same and found surface paint and varnish ate up blades so fast that sharpening cost was higher than value of wood.
Labels on cans of varnish will list resins such as alkyd, phenolic and urethane, and the oils used are tung and linseed, as well as other semidrying oils such as soybean and safflower. Both of these products are very good at removing stubborn areas of paint or varnish but you should do a test area first of which ever product you decide to try. The way to avoid the issue in the future is to seal both the wood and the seal prior to applying the resin.
The words ‘varnish,’ ‘marine,’ or ‘spar’ don’t seem to mean much of anything and their use is not a guaranty that the product is real, traditional varnish. Hard, film-forming finishes like shellac, lacquer or varnish have to be used if you’re going for a filled-pore, deep, lustrous finish. It seals the wood against water and can be wiped clean with a damp cloth (not dripping). Gloss varnish will give you the most saturated colours but it will lessen the effect of the sparkle of a metallic surface. In fact, oil-based varnish is the most durable finish that can be easily applied by the average woodworker.
This will save you money and time, from having to refinish your wood floors too often. Wood and other surfaces should be well sanded, dry and cleaned of greasy, waxy and dirty contaminants using BIO Thinner. Then test with both spray and brush until you find the perfect mix for applying a varnish to your work. Thick CA glue is applied to the piece via a paper towel with the lathe on a slow speed.
I had a friend years ago that used what I supposed was a clear linear polyurethane wood ‘varnish’ on his boat’s brightwork, and he claimed it was a 10 year coating. They do require that the wood piece be buffed between coats to remove any residual stain. The can of varnish should also tell you how many square feet (square meters) of coverage to expect. This is all done at one time, keeping the wood wet until no more soaks in. Brushing is the most practical method of application for individual projects. They are usually very gentle on the wood and won’t damage it, which is why they’re used in the antique trade.
This will probably be the easiest stripper for you to use but there is also the Paint Panther Paint and Varnish Remover which works by applying it on to the painted area and within 5 – 10 mins the paint should start to bubble up so that you can scrap it off. You would need to first glue the canvas to a rigid support (wood or metal), the spray varnish it to prevent any air from coming through the backing, and then pouring the resin. For a while early in the process, until you start getting down to the wood underneath the mess, you may feel that you have completely ruined the piece. In general, liquid stains are applied with a rag or brush and allowed to penetrate into the wood.
Varnish is usually sanded between coats because the varnish itself does not stick to the prior coat without sanding. It allows the stripper to work longer without drying out, so you won’t have to use as many applications to get down to raw wood. Gel Medium is an acrylic-based gel that’s usually used for painting (it makes acrylic paint thick so that your painting has texture). This finish is the most popular wood finish with amateurs because of its ease of application and excellent protective, durable, and dust- and run-free results. I guess you could try to carefully scrape or sand it off, but that might mar your wood.
I’m a low sheen guy myself (my second piece of furniture has an oil-beeswax finish which still smells great every time I open the drawer) so I don’t have a lot to recommend specifically, but polyurethane really belongs on floors and hardy kitchen tables where the beauty of the wood is less a priority. Trying to achieve an even sheen with a gloss varnish on that scale of painting is an art in itself. The ‘tipping’, as the name suggests, involves very lightly dragging a dry brush or pad over the wet varnish.
In order to really soften and liquefy paint, the stripper will need to be several times thicker than the paint film, so put on a thick layer. Assuming that you are using better quality varnish (more flexibility) there really is no danger of the finish cracking” once back in the water. Don’t expect to get more than a few months from an oil finish, and more than a year or two from varnish. Yes – I do not use canvas but rather wood panels, which are much stronger and provide a far better support for the resin.
Some systems use a drying oil varnish as described below, while others use spirit (or solvent) varnish. A primer and sealer combination exposed to UV light provides good wood colour and preparation for a mineral ground coat that I apply to fill the pores, protect the wood and provide an even foundation for varnishing. Some instruments have a ‘tacky’ feel about them even though varnished years ago: this is not good varnish. Remove loosened finish by gently scraping in direction of wood grain with a plastic stripping tool.
Some of the most dazzling and renowned wood finishes in the world have historically been from padding very thin coats of shellac onto the surface of the wood (a technique called French Polishing ) until an immaculately clear shine emerges. Since the varnish is water-based, you can thin it down a little with either water or flow medium if you feel it’s too thick. It is black though, so even when diluted with turpentine and linseed oil it will darken the wood considerably. Once you go beyond that 3-day window, you must sand as you would conventional varnish.
Their appeal lies both in the color they bring to the wood and in their ease of application: wipe on, wait a few minutes, wipe off. Thank you for your inquiry, there are to products that we recommend for paint and varnish removal. We have a wide range of Varnishes that you can use on the stairs and I would recommend the Manns Extra Tough Floor varnish which is a durable and protective Varnish that will last really well. Decoart Americana Satin Varnish: Gives wood projects a tough, durable, clear acrylic finish.
Chemical resistance – If you wipe varnish with a strong solvent like a lacquer thinner, the surface dissolves and the varnish loses gloss. Marine (boat) varnish is spar varnish with ultraviolet-light absorbers added to resist penetration by UV rays. It sounds like the wood may not have been sanded down enough and pores in the grain may still be sealed and are keeping the stain from penetrating. I will need to add a varnish over the paint to protect the work as I would like it to be displayed outside for a year. I would re-varnish the glossy one to match as there will be more matting agent remaining in the varnish so it won’t be able to create the first level of sheen.
Clean away all sanding residue with a tack cloth, and apply the second coat of varnish the same way as you did the first. For interior surfaces, apply at least three coats on unfinished wood and two coats on surfaces already finished. The increase in the speed of sound is plotted on the horizontal axis labeled Δc/c100% as a percentage compared to the untreated wood. If you have been building with full strength (my preference) and the varnish has been laying downk. Other finishes tend to lay on the surface and do not penetrate which has the effect of keeping the wood lighter.
Unrefined, it’s called raw linseed oil, which is rarely used on wood because it dries so slowly. Chemical paint remover for wood delivers the best results, removes varnishes and paints faster than sanding and tends to be the least harsh. Unfortunately I hadn’t heard of putting an isolation coat on and applied a coat of Matt varnish. Please keep in mind that the purpose of varnish or any other coating is to protect a piece of wood.