Two planes sit side by side, one, a wooden-bodied, handmade individual, the other, cast from iron in lots of hundreds throughout any single day. There has been excellent additions to the explanation of how to make certain wooden planes such as the work of Larry Williams DVD on making a set of side escapement hollow and round. Veritas have made some interesting new planes, however their bench planes have given a couple of our students problems with flatness and with the adjustment mechanism. The number is usually the indication of the length of the plane, though some planes are slightly narrower than others, so just get that one plane to start off with, then Later on you can add in a Number 7 or Number 8 plane or a long jointing plane for jointing edges and flattening dead flat surfaces.
Really and truly, wooden planes are best purchased when you can see, touch and thoroughly inspect the plane, and also when it’s in your area already, as acclimation will be less of an issue. I have been leaning toward the 24″ Primus with Lignum Vitae sole, as I will need a large plane to finish the surface of the bench I am building now from Norway Pine. Instead of striking the plane I will usually gently tap the sides of the wedge with a wooden mallet to loosen the wedge. The top of my workbench is pine, if your workbench is made of hardwood, use a soft piece of pine or spruce to strike the plane or wedge against.
If gaps appear between the back of the iron and the back of the mouth, or if the iron rocks in the throat, remove the iron and carefully file down the high spots in the plane. There are some late production wood bottom planes that have the Hand-y grip feature, similar to that found on the common metal block planes, milled into their wooden bodies. Also make sure that the plane hasn’t twisted- sight down the sole of the plane along the boxed quirk and make sure there is no deviation.
I know this though, that no matter the era of wooden plane making, if you set the wooden plane up correctly, and they are as readily adjustable as the cast metal ones, they are more pleasing to work with and just as effective as any metal one I ever used. As you may already know, start with the jack plane for rough flattening, then progress to the jointer when you’ve got it pretty flat. I have cut a bird mouth underneath so as to be able to drill a series of holes through to the escapement, this is for when I turn the plane over and start chiseling.
Interestingly, the Japanese irons taper such that they get wider as they are sharpened. Some planes, such as the Stanley Bedrock line and the bench planes made by Lie-Nielsen and WoodRiver/ Woodcraft have a screw mechanism that allows the frog to be adjusted without removing the blade. Hand Plane Refinishing This section still needs to be updated but has some of my secrets of plane refinishing.
When you have machines doing most of the work for you, you needn’t be concerned about which plane style you choose, but if you are looking to work by hand, there is no comparing to a well-tuned wooden plane. The first thing I do to old planes are examine them to determine the condition, I check the boxing if any to determine if it is loose, which it usually is. The first thing I do is gently remove the wedge holding the blade.
Even though such planes were unknown to most craftsmen and the wooden-plane business was firmly established, by the end of the century Stanley was selling millions. I just checked Wooden Planes and How to Make Them by David G Perch and Robert S Lee and I cannot see any thing for length. How I do wish he could include a plane – boys love to see the shavings fly, and besides it is a necessary tool.
Filing the Mouth of a Plane by Rob Cosman – If you are having trouble fitting the new IBC blade and chip breaker into your old plane, this video will show you how to make the necessary modifications to fix this issue. What’s more, Wooden Block planes are proudly offered by top-rated sellers on eBay, therefore you can shop with self-assurance. Source: Adapted from pages 37-38 of Chelsea Fraser’s The Busy Boy’s Book, New York: Crowell, 1927) Fig c-5 shows the anatomy of Jack Planes.
Last week we finished up the video work on building this plane in the Jack plane size. The top piece, the plane iron cap, is bolted against the blade in such a position that only about a sixth of an inch of the cutting edge is actually exposed (less if the wood has a very curly grain). I own a classic wooden moving fillister plane, but there are a couple vintage and new fillisters that are highly popular.
A bull-nose” plane has its blade toward the front so that it can cut deeper into corners, while a chisel plane can cut right up to the perpendicular wall of a box. You can read Chris Schwarz’s review of this new plane here and buy it here I have not yet tested out either of these metal moving fillister planes, so search around to see what other people say. This insures that all of the working surfaces of the boxing are on the same linear plane. The front edge of the wedge must conform to the wedge opening is the planes body. Shoulder planes are used for trimming & improving cut joinery (e.g. shoulders, tenons, grooves, & rabbets).
Plane irons shear wood fibers, leaving a perfectly smooth surface ready for finishing. There are many different types of specialized wood planes that professional cabinetmakers, furnituremakers and skilled woodworkers use for grooving, rabbeting and shaping of moldings. The rabbet plane, which is much easier to sharpen than a plane with a curved blade like a hollow or round, is used to hog off the waste between the molding profiles while the hollow and round molding plane is used as sparingly as possible. After all the original blades for these antique 18th century planes would have been blacksmith made.
It arrives in perfect condition (and sharp) and costs less than the vintage Stanley No. 62 Low Angle Jack Plane (what the Lie-Nielsen plane was inspired by). As we could find no Bench Planes in the market that are suitable for our class of trade, we are compelled to have these planes made to our special order. When the planes are brought to serviceable condition, they are much easier to maintain and preserve. Old wooden planes can still he found at any flea market or auction or from tool dealers.
However later planes in the 20th century, between the two World Wars where obtaining suitable quantities of exotic timbers was becoming increasingly difficult, used beech which was then given a dark stain to simulate a more expensive timber. The mark on the front of the plane is upside down, this was by accident, it will have to stop as it is. Fortunately some early plane makers had their marks sometimes upside down, perhaps it was intentionally done, or they could have got it wrong also.
Jack planes vary from 14 to 15 inches in length; and jointer planes range from about 22 to 24 inches in length. The easiest way to flatten the sole is to stick a strip of self-adhesive sandpaper to the table saw table and repeatedly pass the plane over it. Apply pressure only on the forward stroke, then lift the tool to bring it back for the next stroke. Vintage wooden planes , 2 hollows and 1 matching round good condition, hollows marked ”owasco tool co. ny” round is marked ”jf gm lindsey. Some bullnose planes have a removable toe so that they can pull double duty as a chisel plane.
For over 30 years I have been making furniture and I’ve only just bought a large scraper plane. It’s worse when taking a plane from a humid environment and bringing it to a dry environment, like from Washington state to Arizona. These blades fit usually the planes of other makers too, if the width is the same. However, just because a plane isn’t cosmetically perfect doesn’t mean it won’t make a good user. You will often find these planes in rough shape, evidence of their being used for coarse work.
If you have to replace the wedge, keep the old one with the plane in case you sell it in the future, the original wedge will add to its overall value, even if damaged. This manufacturer, which assigned its planes catalog numbers, is credited with the development and growth of the market for American-style planes. The Canadian company has started selling replacement irons paired with a perfectly matched cap iron (also called a chipbreaker) for an amazing price. Like a bench plane for the #0 and #1/2 and a lower angle for the #1, but later block plane types are bevel-up, giving them a lower profile.
In 1870, the first year they were offered, #5 bench planes sold for $7.50 each; a premium wooden jack was closer to $1.50. As production increased, the next year the price dropped to $6.00, and by 1892 the same plane was $3.75. Handplane Central Information for all types of hand planes, including wooden planes, infill planes and Stanley type planes. The only old double iron planes at a steeper pitch I’ve ever been able to find are a very few Slater infills.