Minwax Wood Finish

Minwax® PolyShades® is an easy way to change the color of your currently stained or polyurethane finished wood. The first step in any traditional whitening process is bleaching- by mixing sodium hydroxide with hydrogen peroxide a chemical reaction is initiated that sucks the color out of the wood (and just about anything else it comes in contact with). To complete this faux oak wood imitation, you will need the following tools: one large 4″ or 5″ brush and several smaller ones, one fine artist brush, a badger, a flogger, assorted metallic combs, a metallic roller, and a foam roller. Wheather you have decided on a whitewashed or pickled finish, it is important to add a final protective top coat of Minwax Polycrylic.

Minwax® offers a variety of easy-to-use products to help clean and repair wood that is chipped, cracked, scratched, even decayed, to its original beauty. Finish the entire wood surface, not just visible areas, and allow it to dry overnight. A very popular look in furniture – and becoming more prevalent in kitchen cabinets – is a highly physically distressed wood (with simulated cracks, chips, wormholes and fly speck, and even a crackle), all emphasized by one or more applications of glaze. You don’t necessarily need to stain wood before pickling, so it all depends on the look you’re after.

Many sources claim that oak and ash are the most common woods pickled; some even claim these are the only two woods you can pickle – not true! Oil based and solvent based finishes rarely create any problems over glaze, and the SealCoat is usually not needed, though it is important to make sure the glaze is completely dry before you add your final clear coats. The pickled finish of the panelling in this room creates a subtle juxtaposition with the warmer wood of the floor and credenza. But after some searching around I found Minwax’s water based White Wash Pickling stain.

I highly recommend testing out your technique on a scrap piece of wood before tackling your project. Side-Note: I wanted to do two coats of stain but Jason wasn’t in love with the small area the floor guy did. This clear coat process will render the floor a light amber or golden honey color as shown above. If it is a wood veneer, you’ll need to be extra careful that you don’t sand through the paper-thin veneer. Start with wood that has been sealed with at least one good coat of whatever finish you choose.

You cannot get enough ventilation inside to use products that contain those dangerous chemicals.) The exact amount of thinner to add will depend on the effect you want to achieve (the amount of white that is to remain on the surface). Now to avoid that, I’m going to condition the wood beforehand with something called a pre-stain. Couldn’t pay me to have a pickled anything in my house again except maybe a pickle.

Water cleanup clear finishes such as Minwax® Polycrylic® Protective Finish should not be used over Minwax® Wood Finish Red Mahogany stain. I generally try to control for the color by using tea (and choosing the species of wood) rather than using different strengths of the vinegar solution. Woolworths will honour all gift cards, product warranties, returns, and lay-bys and the completion of any contracted home improvement projects such as kitchens, bathrooms and floor coverings. Clean the wood with a soft brush or tack rag and check the surface again under good light for scratches or blemishes.

Make sure the finish is either satin or flat, don’t use a gloss finish because it will reflect too much light and you will not be able to see the accents in the grain very well. A touch of brown wax seems to do the job, plus it adds color to any tiny holes in the wood that the oxidizing solution missed. The best way to really get the grains to stand out in lighter colored wood is to enhance them with a little sanding.

Our floor guy said, that will always happen with Oak… I was really looking for a grey undertone but to get a grey undertone from oak would require a stain mixture of white and gray, or multiple coats. Long before that happens, however, the oil will start evaporating and, because pine is a very soft wood, mix with dust and dirt in microscopic dents and scratches, giving you a darker wood that’s sort of crusted with a discoloured grayness. This helps to raise the soft wood fibers and remove them prior to applying the stain. If you prefer the true pickled look, you will want to use a wood like oak, which has deep pores.

Slow glazes afford more working time but also require longer drying time before you can seal the glaze with the next coat of finish. Don’t be afraid to mix different types of wood and different finishes in the same space. A porous softwood such as pine will stain darker than a denser hardwood such as oak. Pine doesn’t have deep pores, so when you apply the whitewash pickling stain, it goes on evenly, but doesn’t soak deep into the pores of the wood.

It’s an easy finish to apply and can be very effective when it comes to blending varying background wood colors. That would give the wood the most protection and require the least maintenance from you. When you glue boards side by side to create a large surface, looking at the edge of the board, one piece the grain cups up and the next piece cups down. Apply stain (Summer Oak shown), allow it to penetrate the wood for five minutes, wipe off the excess, and let dry.

Well I felt like that about wanting everything I built for the new apartment to look like whitewashed oak. Using a light touch with the electric sander, gently sand the surface just enough to remove the raised grain. I usually use around an ounce of the white finish (paint) per quart of clear to make a toner. Once you have stained all your pieces and they have dried overnight, sand all your wood (mine had been sanded beforehand as well). I believe this would solve my problem, but I am leaning toward using a polyurethane finish.

With my steel wool and vinegar treatment, I let the mixture sit for 3.5 days before applying it. When applied to the wood directly, it turned a medium very warm brown. Additionally I make my own finishing wax out of equal parts beeswax, low VOC mineral spirits, and boiled linseed oil, rubbed vigorously into the wood. Just be careful that you wipe away the excess in the other areas, or you will lose the pickle effect and just have a white dresser. Better to find out something doesn’t work like you envisioned on a scrap piece of wood than your ceiling.

Restorz-it is not a polish or oil that will dissipate; it is a unique blend of premium sealers that actually bond to your existing finish. I do like to use a water-clear (water-white), non-yellowing finish with a pickling stain to keep the color as true as possible. The wood (construction-grade pine stud) turned bright rust red and had a layer of rust dust all over it that rubs off on everything.