Anyone looking to make precise, accurate cuts, over and over, needs to own a mitre saw. That’s where your problem starts because that tooth generates so much cutting pressure that your molding or trim will be forced away from the saw blade. The Oxford Riverstone panels on the other hand have a flat back and no voids so are simple to miter and line up properly when following the mitering instructions on our website. Even on perfectly square corners, 45-degree angles won’t always yield perfect miters. I don’t cut rafters that often, so I usually lay them out with a framing square and then transfer the angle to the miter saw.
But when you set your saw at 43 degrees and cut the piece, the miter is NOWHERE near close! The miter angle (or cross-cut angle) is the horizontal angle, as seen on the saw table, from a line perpendicular to the long edge of a board. If using a Compound Miter Saw, Set Bevel angle to 0° (No bevel) On an inside corner, the top of the molding will be shorter; on an outside corner, the bottom will be shorter. First though, for comparison sake, in the video I demonstrate the basic miter cut using a cut-off of the 2″ x 2″ used in our log furniture legs. In a perfect world, you could nail the trim flat to the wall and the miter would look great.
Different types of crown moldings require different angles of miter saw so make sure you have set the miter angle and bevel angle according to the requirement. This project is easier to accomplish with a compound miter saw, but it can be accomplished with a simple miter saw using beveled cuts. As a reminder to keep hands well away from the blade, most new miter saws have red lines indicating the no hands” zone.
I had the front of the trim and therefore the cut was incorrect even though the angle technically was accurate. When you think about it, you’re not going to be cutting sheets of plywood on a miter or radial arm and you’re probably not going to be mitering moldings on a table saw. All of the how-to’s I’ve seen about crown molding use a compound miter saw to make the angle cuts. Tutorial about how to Use a Miter Saw is really helpful.Thank you so much for this compilation of great ideas. It’s important to know, conclusively, that when you’re shooting for a 90-degree cut you’re going to get a precise 90-degree cut.
Sometimes I’ll color the grout in the miter post-installation so it better blends with the tile. Align the mitered end of the pieces of molding together on top of the corner or outside work angle. Scribe and trim the back edges of each piece so that the rear mitered points fit exactly in the corner of the wall. Trim nail guns allow you to hold the moldings in perfect alignment while you pin them in place. In this instance the first piece of trim is measured and installed flat to the wall and corner.
Place the legs of the adjustable tool against the work angle and read the setting for the miter saw, as indicated by the red arrow. Cordless mitre saws are few and far between but we think they will start to make more of an appearance on sites because of the lithium ion battery improvements seen over recent years. Four-sided mitered forms should have cuts at 45 degrees, and even a small degree of error can result in gaps at either the heel or toe of the joint when assembled.
With the saw turned off, pull the motor all the way toward you, squeeze the trigger, lower the blade down into the table slot and push the blade through the cut. If you are using smaller pieces leftover from another project, might not have to rough cut. The bent fibers will disguise the gap, and the slightly rounded corner will be less likely to get chipped or damaged.
The drawback to this type of tooth is that the quality of your cut depends on very pointed teeth and the more pointed they are, the faster they dull. When looking at the crown molding in the position that it will be installed, it will always look like this. I think that I would probably do better with a sliding 10 inch compound miter saw and a variety of appropriate blades. The mitre saw will usually have a blade guardwhich, for safety, allows the blade to only become exposed as the blade moves towards the wood.