A router is just too much of a versatile tool to build one table to do all things, I now have an insert built into a wing on my table saw, I have several plates for this with routers attached and usually switch them several times when doing a project. You can see that I am using Grip-Tite Fence Clamps to hold the router table fence to my table saw fence. Remove the extension wing of your saw and determine the size of your new router table extension. The BenchDog 40-102 ProMax is one of the sturdiest router table we’ve come across and the credit goes it’s cast iron build. David Thiel shows you how to build your own router table that clamps in a bench vise and can be stored out of the way when not in use.
The accessory T-slots on both table and fence are perfect for installation of featherboards, stops, fencing risers, and changes. You could always improvise a fence with a couple of piece of wood and some c-clamps. And by now I’ve installed the caster wheels and the top cleat across the front, as well as a hole in the right side to accept the power cords from the paddle switch that I’ll mount on the right side panel later. The fence is made of a fully-enclosed aluminium extrusion which creates a full length vacuum chamber and makes for a great dust collection system. On the router table, I used the template bit we’ve been using plus a flush trim bit to complete the routing.
It seems you always need a router mounted with a round-over router bit which this would easily accommodate. With router bits especially, you need to allow them to cool some between cuttings. You can center the hole in the tabletop as shown in Figure A. But I like extra support in front of the router bit, so I centered the hole 8 in. from the back of the tabletop. I cannot recommend a table; there are at least a dozen and they are constantly being modified, cheapened or upgraded.
Not one for letting a good set-up go to waste, I cleaned out the material for the router bit cut-out using the table saw since I still had the dado blade on the arbor. See how Matt uses an accessory lift with a conventional fixed-based router, works a router with built-in lift technology, and deals with dust collection. A router table can be as simple as a piece of plywood set on top of 2 sawhorses with a router under along with a fence made from a 2×4 board.
Although I see what you mean about the table looking like value compared to the cost of buying individual components. The two slots on the top of the slide allow for thumbscrews to pass through to the threaded insert in the main fence plate to lock the slide in position. And then there are jobs only a router table can do: Making raised-panel doors, for example, requires big router bits that aren’t safe in a hand-held router. I built my own router table and use MDF with plastic lam on each side to keep it from warping. I have been through this a few times, I think I’m on my 4th cabinet…..My personal opinion is build the cabinet, buy the top and fence.
Clamp on a temporary fence, turn on the router and push the stock from right to left (Photo 7) until the bit enters the hole at the other end. Make sure the hole for the router clamp is not oversized too much or your router will move a little. This is the end that will swing right or left to expose more or cover up more of the router bit from the fence.
You want feather boards holding the strip down to the table and up against the fence. Instead of adjusting the left side of his fence to accommodate for removed stock, he placed (taped, I think) shims on the left side. The doors slide nicely on the MDF, and the large table means I don’t have to worry about my panels falling off. As for a router dedicated to the table use, consider the Triton 3 1/4 hp model.
The top is two layers with a continuous hinge across the back so the upper layer can hinge up. Seemed like a good idea at the time, but I have never had to raise it. Okay i have found the center and now I’m just going to use a forstner bit to drill out the hole that the router bit will come through. The lower cabinet can either consist of just an open stand or a cabinet to house all your router bits and accessories.
Attach the table by resting it on the support arms and driving the pivot bolts home. My shop is so small I pop out the rouer set it on a shelf when not in use and hang the table on a nail in the wall. Then make up a box or cupboard on wheels, stick the worktop on the top and you’re almost done. If you leave the round insert slighly proud you can sand it flush with the larger inset.
Additionally, building a large table top will enable you to route larger pieces with a lot more stability compared to a smaller top you see on the commercial bench top versions. From this I made the two wings that will make the fence faces and 4 pieces that will be the zero clearance inserts. This two-hour-long session covers the basics of how to use YuKonstruct’s Table Saw and Router Table , including using the 3 phase power system, dust collection system and general safety. The Straight and High workpiece support makes this fence the best all around Router Fence out there.
The way to do this is to set up guides for a pattern-trimming bit using the base plate to position them. The Router Raizer lets you work from both the topside and underside of your router table. You are exactly right about all the options and materials available to build your own ultimate router table. Set the base plate in position and apply the boards tightly against it, sticking them down to the melamine with double-sided carpet tape (see photo). Another router table that I ran into after buying the Kreg is the Sommerfield Tool kit. Swap out your router bit and roughly center the cutter to hit the center of the strip edge.
Laminate a sheet of MDF the thickness of the height track to the top on each side of it. Most router fence setups incorporate a split fence design that is adjusted with carriage bolts and slots. In the instructions they say to do the through cut first, but I did not think this was going to work as well, as I’d have no support for the router in the middle of the tabletop, so I did this cut first. I probably should have removed more of the waste at the bandsaw prior to doing this, but it worked out OK. I did get some tear out, which was probably caused by the excess strain on the router from the extra wood.
I do not have a device to measure vertical alignment as described in the article, but this is not likely to be a significant issue because the router base, which has been flattened on a granite surface plate using sandpaper, attaches directly to the MDF that is manufactured to excellent tolerances of flatness and thickness. By the way, I disavow the detail in the plan drawing of the shop on page 58-59 of the same issue , which shows the woodworker’s router table with an insert plate and an insert ring.
Moreover, in case of normal router table, you have to keep it in the same place. Removing the material this way will leave an undercut in the workpiece, so make sure the rabbet cut on the sub fence is facing down when cutting that piece. Bolting your completed extension to the saw can be the trickiest part of the proj- ect. The router shown is a Porter Cable Model 7518 (3 1/4 hp) which costs about $350.
This huge pool of options can be a bit daunting to wade into, so for the next several blog posts, you can follow along as I build a complete router table from fence to legs. While I’m confident a cabinet will help contain the dust better, I was curious about fire/explosion hazards as the router will be in the enclosed space with the dust (which would be at a much higher ppm level). Hopefully first you could follow my explanation of the table saw fence design and then why it leads to the router fence.