If this is your first visit and you wish to register, please be sure to check our Residency Requirements by clicking this link. I concur with what Paul said, I do own a #7 in both a Stanley Bailey and a Keen Kutter K series ( this plane is similar to the Bedrock round side ). Before I had these I used my #6 and still use my #6 more than my #7, I do not own a #8 but own a 28″ wooden Jointer plane which is very nice. You should be very careful when buying a collectible plane that has a decal on the tote unless you’re sure you can recognize the reproduction.
For most woodworkers, however, I recommend the vintage Stanley no. 5 Fore plane, the no. 7 Try/Jointer plane, and the no. 4 Smoothing plane, or the comparable size equivalent from one of the other major manufacturers. Often called the workhorse of planes, the block plane is used for truing up end grain on boards ends, creating chamfers on edges, trimming tenons, etc. Flattening the Jarrah tabletop without tearout was possible with the BUJ but not with the Stanley. The Jointer plane performs a dual role between stock removal and accurately truing up long edges or levelling wide boards.
All that being said, I picked up a hand plane on sale last week, and now I don’t know what to do with it! If you do need to resort to flattening your plane then, put engineer’s blue or a series of cross-hatched lines made with a permanent marker on the sole, and pass the plane over a piece of abrasive on a dead fl at surface to reveal the hollows and high spots. The very first model of the plane has no number embossed at the toe, which, according to those who have tried to make a chronological typing of the Bailey bench planes, made its debut on planes in 1885.
The production of the LV BU Jointer plane completes a three-plane family that comprises the BU Smoother, LA Jack and the BU Jointer. The Try, or Jointer, plane is used to flatten and refine the surface left by the Fore plane. If you’re on a tight budget, then go with one of the simple antique Stanley metal plow planes (No. The look for a the bargain #6, 7 and 8. I think you will do the same as me. Long metal planes are very unwieldy and flex very easily.
This is the most useful of all the bench planes, and it is a very good plane on which to learn technique. It arrives in perfect condition (and sharp) and costs less than the vintage Stanley No. 62 Low Angle Jack Plane (what the Lie-Nielsen plane was inspired by). I’ve also used the Stanley No. 148 Come & Go” Tongue & Groove Plane , but didn’t like it quite as much as the Stanley No. 48. Good think too, because they’re rarer & a bit more expensive. You can get by with an inexpensive Hand Plane and after working with it and getting a feel for it, then you may want to invest in a Higher Quality Plane.
Providing that it’s actually fi t for something more than holding your door open, there are ways to fettle it, though I warn you now, when it comes to getting a plane to work, flattening the sole is likely to be the most controversial topic. Plus, the Lie-Nielsen is an improved-upon version of the Stanley No. 62. Mine planes like it was made by angles. Chips in the bottom casting are sometimes found where the sides meet the toe or heel of the plane.
The planes had been made some 70 years, and used successfully for that same time, without the kidney-shaped hole so it seems that Stanley made the design change as a gimmick to differentiate themselves from the rest of the pack. In my experience, I’ve used this plane for pretty much everything, from roughing to smoothing, and it never complains. Why anyone would smack the heel of the iron on this kind of plane is lost on me. If your plane has this feature, a file will make short order of it.
Paul I have a question for you and that is about the Woden that I have seen you use, I have never heard of them before but they do look like a nice plane. So if you own a Stanley No. 71 router plane and your iron keeps coming loose, just flip the collar over! Aside from perhaps a little hand scraping here and there, the surface left by the Smoothing plane should require no further treatment. I own some cheap” imitations of LN like WoodRiver #4,5 and 6 which are not bad tools all together and a LA Veritas Jack plane, which I consider my Cadillac of planes. Plane is as is it has not been used for 50 years, so expect to have to clean, sharpen adjust.
In the case of a jointed tabletop, for instance, the jack can be used to take out any high spots and irregularities after glue up, before moving onto the jointer to give it true flatness. Whether this ‘friction’ becomes a bother to the craftsman depends upon the species of wood being planed and the overall strength or endurance of the dude pushing the plane. If you don’t want to use your jointer plane for flattening boards, then go ahead and find a fore plane (which is shorter than a jointer plane). The damage is caused during the plane’s use, when the plane is pushed at the knob; the knob leans forward, putting stress at its leading portion, making it split.
You can read Chris Schwarz’s review of this new plane here and buy it here I have not yet tested out either of these metal moving fillister planes, so search around to see what other people say. If you’re interested in working difficult figured wood grain, planing a lot of end grain (like on butcher blocks), or using a shooting board to true your ends & edges, then this simple hand plane should move to your urgent list. There’s simply no substitute for a shoulder plane when getting those tenons to fit just right.
Your new bench plane iron will come ground square; to get the best out of it there are some variations that you can introduce to its profi le. You can, for instance, round off the corners to stop it leaving marks in the surface as it cuts. The punks of America, serving time during their plane tutelage, did their very best to make the planes scream UNCLE! Below is my list of top hand plane brands (bigger manufacturers), with special ebay search links to each brand.
Stanley’s offering of Jointer planes are the no. 7 and no. 8, measuring 22 inches and 24 inches respectively. During this time Stanley was in its initial stages of expanding its product line with whatever they thought could sell. The plane worked perfectly first time, taking extremely fine shavings from some troublesome mahogany I had. The present-day Bed Rock copies made by Lie Nielsen, Clifton, Woodriver, Quangsheng, Juuma and so on are very much the same as the old Stanley models but they are all beefier and made to excellent engineering standards. This damage is clearly visible by flipping the plane over and looking at the sole.
This plane never came equipped with the frog adjusting screw that was offered on the larger bench planes, nor did it experience the changes in the frog’s receiver, save for the first (H-shaped) to the second (broad machined area) designs (see the #3 for an explanation and images of the changes in the frog’s receiver). But if you don’t have a ton of extra cash, then you can learn how to make the combination plane work.
BTW, I would suggest that if you do buy a jointer plane, buy a #8-type over a #7..the extra mass is useful if you are planing to face-joint. The corrosion occurs from the plane sitting idle where moisture is trapped between the two irons. Keeping things in balance is always longer planes do have a place at the bench and I would not be without the #6, 7 and 8 planes I own, but I never really use the #7 and 8 planes for flattening or straightening because they are rarely truly straight.