How To Refinish A Table Without Sanding Or Stripping

With a project that involves refinishing wood, taking time is almost always going to serve you better. Yes, I mixed the two stains together in a plastic container then brushed it on top of the table. It also provides a way of giving bland looking woods such as poplar, the appearance of prized furniture woods such as ebony, mahogany or walnut. If this is not the finish that you are looking to achieve then you will need to consider removing the previous product totally and you could look at the Paint Panther for this, or continue sanding until you are back to the bare wood. Can anyone advise me on what method to use to to apply th stain in such a large table.

Larger gouges and splits are best repaired by patching the void with a piece of wood that matches the colour and grain orientation of the wood under repair. If you are an experienced wood finisher, refer to our retail brochures for quick and simple finishing those of you that like to know more, we’ll take you step-by-step through the wood finishing process including preparing the wood, selecting the finish and applying traditional or decorative finishes.

Once you’re done staining your table, I would polyurethane it. Polyurethane is a liquid plastic that dries clear. The table needed to be redone because it was missing poly on all but its leaves so when we’d put anything hot or wet on it, we’d be left with white marks that didn’t go away. The Osmo Natural Oil Woodstain comes in a Mahogany finish and will colour and protect your wood at the same time. We then cut all of the boards to the right length based the dimensions of the table we are building. Because the table was so tacky (almost sticky), I knew I wasn’t ready to move on yet.

I was tempted to call it a lost cause since it was a cheap table to begin with and in my eyes was a failure. I’m using a satin, polyurethane that will enhance the wood grain, give a soft sheen and most importantly, provide a tough, durable surface that will stand up to spilled liquids and scuffing. Machine sanding marks are still visible, glue spots appear, etc.) stop staining and correct the problem immediately. After Top Coat has dried, buff between each application with #320 or #400 grit sandpaper or superfine sanding sponge.

My first staining project of my dining room table  was a nightmare, and I felt horrible that it wasn’t turning out at I had expected it to. I eventually just had to accept it the way it was, and I ended up LOVING it. But no staining job is going to look perfect when you’re starting out. Quite a dilemma for you, the extra sanding can have a affect on the absorption and finish that you will achieve on the the leaf in comparison with the rest of the table.

While the finish will be just as durable as if it were applied onto wood, laminate furniture by nature, is built more poorly and isn’t as heavy-duty as a solid wood piece. Taking the time to fine sand until the wood surface is super smooth also is the foundation to achieving a silky surface after the final coats of finish are applied. Oh and be sure to always sand WITH the grain of the wood for a nice natural look (nothing screams bad refinishing job like round sander circles that soak up stain and look even more obvious when you’re done).

Intense sanding could also remove the stain, which would create a very patchy final product. I bought a great used round pedestal table with the intent of refinishing it. It weighed a ton and the guy I bought it from said it had originally cost $2000…..so Iassumed it was solid wood. It coated the natural-colored palm wood all wrong, and it was even started to chip.

There is a tendency to want to sand in round circles but avoid that, and work back and forth with the grain of the wood to eliminate the circles. On the other hand it’s taken me so long to getthis far that I’m hoping one of you lovely experts might have a good way to even out the staining I’ve done thus far. Orbital Sander: An orbital sander is a type of sanding machine used specifically for finishing wood.

Last week her daughter in-law asked me to refinish her dining table and chairs… as soon as I saw it I knew I’d be up for the job. Not the case, I began sanding off the original finish and relaized what I was seeing underneath was partical board or MDF. The rest of the solid wood part of the table has some scratches, normal wear and tear. Fine grits, such as #220, are frequently used for a final light sanding just before applying stain to the wood. I believe this is what led to some of the complications I had with the staining process because all the dark patches are just going to get more pronounced.

If you want to create a stained wood top on a table or dresser, it is more professional (and longer lasting) to actually make it stained wood, and not just dark paint. It usually consists of several coats of wax , shellac , drying oil , lacquer , varnish , or paint , and each coat is typically followed by sanding. If the piece of furniture you’re working on is veneered, it must be treated very carefully. Move up and down each round, changing your angle of sanding as you work to smooth the wood evenly.

I wanted to share the step-by-step in hopes that it will give one of you that were in the same boat as me the confidence to go ahead and try refinishing a piece of furniture. If not, the wood is still sealed from previous finishes and the only way I know of to correct/add color is with touchup techniques – colored markers and/or graining liquid w/dry pigment powders.