There are a number of ways you can edge plywood from iron-on veneer to plastic T-molding. That would allow you to run the plywood directly against the fence, leaving the same small shoulder on the plywood, eliminating the need for taping a board to it. (By setting up the fence very accurately, I was able to eliminate that step but it takes a long time to do it.) I also found that trying to use the straight bit to cut off the excess didn’t work very well.
I think it looks fine but if I did it again I’d ask for caulk since the wood floor is expanding and contracting a lot with temperature/humidity flucuations and there’s a small gap between the wood and the grout now. If you want curves, you can cut through it – perhaps halfway, with a series of little saw cuts – they’ll close up as you curve the timber. No, there is no need to refinish, polish, wax, or coat your laminate floor to maintain its natural beauty. Hey El. 1- I can’t really recommend a brand since I get mine from a local hardwood supplier. Start at one end and squeeze the trimmer until the shims are against the plywood.
Whatever method you use, whether it is glue-on banding or solid wood with a fancy profile, adding something to the edge of your plywood will certainly add to your project. Once you’ve ripped your shelves apart at the tablesaw, you can go ahead and use a bearing guided flush trim bit on your router to flush the edging to the plywood. If the curve isnt tight, you can usually bend thin strips of wood right around the curve. Woodworkers sometimes glue and/or tack on a thin band of solid wood to mask the plys, but a mismatch in grain or color can belie the fix.
It’s difficult to get the plywood and nosing to line up perfectly flush when you clamp them together. I don’t know if that’s how it’s typically done but I asked my contractor to make it as seamless as possible since I didn’t want any of those transition strips etc. To use the trimming jig, clamp the plywood in a vertical position and, with your left hand, bring up the jig’s fence to the left side of the plywood.
To use the bit, set it up in your router table so the groove in the center of the bit aligns with the center ply of the plywood. The edging trim kit fits quickly onto the CRB Setup is as easy ensuring that the cutter removes just the waste edging. The overall look of this floor gives a more contemporary flair and formal feeling to the room. Regardless of the hardwood collection that you select, we offer two different types, beveled edge and micro-beveled edge.
I reckon it looks pretty ordinary, but what you have to remember is that you’re not going to see it. It costs $4 a linear metre so it’s a little bit more than the timber – you hold it in place with the same metal pegs. This guarantees that the edges of the melamine and end grain of the applied edging are perfectly flush. Unlike solid wood against solid wood, the plywood edges, even sawn with the best blades, have some fuzz and spring back: there are only 40% long grain fibers, and my experience has made me decide to spend the time properly applying clamping pressure for a failsafe job.
With imperfections in the vertical height of the hardwood, more hardwood gets removed with higher boards; the bevel becomes smaller than you will find with other areas. Bill-just got back from Tiles International which is where we bought the floor tile, grout, etc. To do this I simply ripped ¾” off the overall height off of the boxes front panel and glued and clamped the poplar edge bands to the plywood edge. Despite the manufacturer’s suggestion that the banding thickness needn’t match the plywood thickness, we found it easier to machine the banding when the thicknesses matched exactly.