Installing Deck Stairs Tutorial

Most likely you have planned one or two flights of stairs from your deck to the surrounding yard. Measure from the deck rim to the landing spot and add 2 ft. Buy three treated 2x10s, two 2×12 skirts and two 2x4s sized to the next larger length and you’ll have plenty of material to work with (the worst mistake is buying material that’s too short!). That soft little skin is met with sharper edges, rougher surfaces and the landing can be a little less cushioned.

Incidentally, most exterior porch or deck stairs abut the deck perimeter or rise alongside the deck to abut a deck landing. The last thing that you need to do to calculate what you will need for your deck is to calculate the number of decking boards you will need. Level it to the deck framing and bolt it in. It will be sitting on a level slab, so that should level it up. Then install the treads. Fix ledger in place on fascia or timber board or on edge of deck using three galvanised bolts, nuts and washers or coach screws as appropriate.

I built this exact design about a year ago and installed it on the other set of steps and the gate is still in perfect shape so this is a tried and true design that has had no warping to date! Check with your local Planning Office as to whether planning permission is required for your proposed deck. Ability to finish concrete deck stairs with tile or natural stone; you can paint it in any color or put a mosaic trim. Weak stairs can collapse beneath your feet, and loose railings can fail and lead to serious injuries. Slide the square down so that it aligns with the previous mark and lay out the next step, until all the steps are laid out.

If it has cracks already, the steps will likely cause more cracking and settling. I don’t recommend that design if it can be avoided as framing is more complex (you’ll have to frame the stair opening and headers in the deck floor structure) and also because you’re giving up deck space. This is done either through a single, wide landing or a second smaller landing at a different level than the first.

If your soil is hardpan or rocky, you may have to hire a tractor with a post-hole auger or backhoe to get the foundation in. But in snow country, do not be tempted to install footings too—shallow the deck will be heaved out of the ground by alternating freezes and thaws. After this is done, you can move on to the next steps, and start actually adding cards to your to build deck steps

The wood grain is a pattern that you’ll see repeated many times over the length of a single board, and if you’re not careful to stagger the pattern, it will be readily apparent to anyone looking at the deck. During the winter ground moves up and down due to freezing/thawing, so the steps cannot be attached to anything, because the whole patio will be moving up and down during the winter. Pro-Tip: You can opt for hidden fasteners that are driven into the side (rather than the face) of the deck boards. The Joist span table below is for joists with a continuous span on a deck below 1metre in height.

I’ve seen more than a dozen different methods used to mount stairs to the deck frame, from blocks nailed to the framing between the stringers, to toenailed stringers and stringers notched onto a joist hanger. First, the distance from the bottom of the doorsill to the ground will have the most impact on your design (and may even eliminate the option of installing a deck). A simple deck plan will have one stairway section or multiple sections with landings, flat areas that connect to build deck steps

Some cards will be excellent if you are playing a control deck, while others are much better for a burst-damage combination, and so on. Including all of them will dilute the theme of your deck. When you’re ready to move forward go to Step 2 of this series and learn how to build the deck substructure To give you an idea of how a deck actually gets built, watch the 1-minute video below and witness how we build one, piece by piece.

Keep in mind these often-overlooked code provisions: A solid, stable landing surface is required to extend at least 36 inches beyond the bottom step, and the landing should slope for drainage but no more than 1/4 inch per foot. Local building codes for decks and deck stairs are in place to ensure that such are not unsafe or dangerous to climb and descend. With some basic carpentry skills and these simple instructions, you’ll have your set of steps up in no time.

He has written articles about deck safety and has been quoted in deck contractor and home inspector publications. Screw a 2×6 the width of the stringers to the backside of the stringers with two deck screws into each board. That is, for example, if you have 7 risers you will need 6 treads (if as I prefer, the 12th riser ascends to the deck surface. Measure the height (in inches) from the ground to the top of the floor on the porch. There is often a need for steps as an access to a deck or for use between decks with different levels.

Be sure to plan the size of the landing to allow for a section to support the upper stringers. For extra-strong stairs, reinforce the middle 2×10 stringer with 2x4s nailed to both sides (Photo 7). There are a million ways to fasten the stringers solidly to the deck. Simple stairways are attached to the deck rim or end joist and supported by a concrete footing. After the notches are cut out of these 2×12 stringers, about 5-1/2 inches of uncut width is left for strength – in other words, the stringers are as strong as 2x6s.

Stop the cuts when you reach the corner of the notch and finish the cuts with a handsaw to prevent weakening the stringers. The first step in building stairs for a deck is finding the total rise or overall vertical height the stairs have to cover. Consequently, to provide positive attachment between the stringer head and the deck frame, I like to use metal hardware. If you have more than two stair stringers to cut, mark your first or pattern stringer in pencil (PAT) so you’ll be sure to always use the same pattern.

Stringers cut from 2 x 12s are the sloped boards on the sides that support all the stair components as well as carry the weight of people walking up and down the stairs. Check Point – The area of the deck where the stairs connect must be reinforced to handle the weight from the stairs. A typical deck stair tread” or top, is made with two deck boards, side by side.

If you have a late-game control deck, you will probably add some powerful late-game minions such as Ysera or Ragnaros the Firelord (again, if these minions were not already part of the core of your deck). Stair gauges are little clamps that you tighten onto the square at the proper rise (vertical stair height) and run (horizontal tread depth) for exactly duplicating each step as you draw it onto the stringers (Photo 2). The gauges save time and ensure that all the steps are consistent. Many designers have created railings with looks that range from the ultra-modern to the rustic to the whimsical.