If that beautiful dresser would be perfect if only the veneer was in better shape, try removing the wood veneers. The rotating top platens allow the operator to have easy access to all sides of the wood item throughout the various wood finishing processes such as sanding, painting and sealing. At the very least, a cover should be placed over the veneer to prevent color fading caused by exposure to UV and fluorescent light. The veneer mill can yield a larger amount of usable square feet from a log by slicing the veneers as thin as possible.
My few remaining pieces of veneer came up immediately so the only effort for a more persnickety piece would be in systematically moving the iron along your veneer. I’ll still go along with first stripping the table top, washing it down with lacquer thinner, and then giving it a careful sanding. OK, now you can use the Chemical Stripper, I have tried most but normally come back to using Nitromors, it seems a bit easier on the wood. The wood under the veneer is called secondary wood-you will need to replace the veneer is you remove it. I am college student and this furniture was supposed to be my bedroom set for the next few years!
Once you have gone over the whole piece, then brush on another coat of stripper, wait 3-5 minutes and then scrub the surface with fresh steel wool, removing any remnants of stripper missed before. We recommend a little rubbing alcohol on a clean cloth to wipe away any dirt on a wood cover. The manufacturer and the sales outlet were unhelpful, and recommended refinishing our 3 day old table! The mobile carts used in the towline approach can be designed with top platens that rotate either manually or automatically. In terms of goo removal, the cheapest and easiest way is to use our old pal white vinegar.
So the question is. What would be a good temp to set a household iron to so I can remove the edge banding without affecting the melamine skin on the inside of the box (fake maple). Then yesterday we served Sunday lunch on heated dinner plates but we had only set the table with fabric placements. This includes removing all composite wood from contact with heaters, kitchen stoves, direct sunlight, etc. Taking an old iron set to high dry heat, I placed it on top of the towel, directly over the stain.
My dining room table was my wife’s grandfather’s table when he was our age, so it is very nice and very old, and I ruined it a year and a half ago with an iron. In some cases, you may be able to heavily sand the panel to remove the veneer and adhesive. On the places where the iron made contact with the sheet it left an iron mark of missing shine. On a horizontal surface you can get the rag wet, ring out the water and then iron that but most finishes will not allow the moisture through. I tried a little furniture polish and that did nothing at all, so I try to accept the damage I had done and hoped my husband wouldn’t notice.
The zebra wood veneer was 2 inches shorter than the maple veneers, instead of only applying the glue to the zebra wood, I applied it to the maple and then pressed the ZW on top. What you have now is a fungal attack enabled by moisture that has been around long enough to create a mycological habitat in your table top. I decided that what contributor M wrote made a lot of sense to me. I wetted the top with mineral spirits and the rings came back.
Judging by the stains and blemishes on the top of this table, however, a good refinishing is exactly what’s needed to return this piece to its former glory. Now before you start saying to me OH NOT MINE… mine is SOLID WOOD”… i have to strongly disagree and say that in 20 years in the business i’ve had only 2 solid wood pianos come into my possession.
After all old veneer has been removed, the surface needs to be scraped clean of all glue and debris. To remove the tape without splitting the veneer, pull it off in the direction of the grain. Looking at the cathedral peaks and how they meet the next flitch, I would have thought the table to be veneer. I have read many posts about how to remove water stains from wood but I have yet to see any advice on how to remove oil/grease stains. Lay it on top of the laminate areas only NOT on the bare wood if any is revealed. If you refinish a table with inserts, make sure you strip, stain and finish those at the same time so they will match!
I got alone in my place and left carelessly the pizza box too much time over the table while my ultraconservative parents that love old forniture left me were way. Get a water saturated (but not dripping wet) towel to cover your surface and drape it over top of the veneer you want to remove. For the final waxing, I prefer a good quality furniture wax like Briwax, Behlen, or Antiquax. You may think you do not need to strip old paint or finish if you are going to paint. Awesome, I do a lot of painting/drawing on wood that other people have thrown away (old kitchen tables, old fence boards, broken doors etc.) so this will definitely come in handy.
It has what looks like strips of wood on it. I don’t think it’s OCB or whatever that pressed wood is but am not sure if it could be something cheaper covered in some cheap type laminate. It was about a month before I got married for the second time, and I was facing the prospect of trying to fit my wife’s furniture into the small 1,400 square foot house that I bought 2 years ago.
Once the finish has lost it’s bond to the wood, use a plastic scraper, metal scraper, a stiff bristle brush, or scotchbrite to remove the softened/dissolved finish. We had a Christmas party last night and in the morning we noticed white foggy marks on our beautiful wood dinning table. Hold down the stable part of the veneer with your free hand then snap the loose veneer to that point.
The Paint Panther works in a similar way to the previous remover that you have tried or the Peelaway7 is a poultice that you can leave on the door for 24/48 hours and then peel off the product and the sealer at the same time. Veneer over plywood, or if it is later, veneer over particleboard, or early MDF if you will. I have a large old laminate wardrobe that I would love to do something with as it is very useful, but, I hate the idea of using oil base paint.
As long as you can get the iron in there to heat up the surface you should be fine! I think you’ll have less work for yourself if you just repair the damaged veneer corners and paint. But the water definitely did soften the veneer and the adhesive to make it possible to scrape off. This part reminded me of removing wallpaper…big celebration when a large piece would all come off together.
My plan is to remove the fake veneer and sand it smooth adding some wood filler if needed, then have it sprayed with a glossy black lacquer finish. Sure I could buy a colour of the primer to be close to my acrylic, but I want to do more furniture for a hobby and maybe sell them with different colours and don’t want to have to get a primer as close to that colour each time! They may require some sanding to smooth out any rough areas from the veneer removal but that should be it.
If you’re just going to sand the wood down later anyway, you could take the stickers off with a sander, although you may gum up a few sheets of paper that way. I’m wanting to remove the synthetic wood veneer from my M&K subwoofer, in the end I want it to have a piano high gloss black lacquer finish, but first things first, removing the fake synthetic wood veneer. This saved my life today…just the iron and a wet cloth worked…thanks so much!
After removing the really heavy old finish or the majority of the paint, mix 1/2 acetone and 1/2 lacquer thinner in a glass or metal bowl and use a piece of steel wool to scrub the piece with this mixture. If you’re finding dovetail joinery under thick veneer it’s way over 20 years old and , as mentioned above, was glued with hide glue. I wouldnt soak the mdf with it. get most the glue off then maybe sand the final bit that is left.
You do not need to neutralize the oa. Just wipe the top with a clean wet rag before resanding or the dust will choke you. If you use solvent based lacquer there is a very good chance that you will wind up with an unholy crinkled mess if you do not remove the fake verneer. But so many of you said to remove the veneer on the rest of it. That actually did shock me. I suggest that the questioner be very careful trying to sand out those markings, or he will have no choice but to re-veneer the whole top. Whether we are referring to veneer or lumber, there are ways to improve the bond.
Generally from what I have learned veneered furniture usually had a less expensive wood such as alder or pine beneath it. Thus the veneer was a way to get a more expensive look such as fruit woods but instead of being solid fruit wood which would have been more costly it was veneered over less costly wood. Apply the steam iron directly to the veneer moving in a circular motion while applying the steam. So, he took a small towel, set the iron to steam, and put it directly on top of the towel for 2-3 seconds. This process was used to give the piece a more uniform” look and hide the variations” in the wood grain.