In just about every instance of home remodeling, you will come to the part where you need to install the trim molding The trim molding is the finishing touch to a room that you have already worked hard on. It is also the piece of any remodel that will make the lasting impression. Our free calculator uses recent, trusted data to estimate costs for your Trim Molding Installation project. Use a coping saw, which has a very thin blade that allows you to cut tight curves, to cut along the line. If using a Compound Miter Saw, Set Bevel angle to 0° (No bevel) On an inside corner, the top of the molding will be shorter; on an outside corner, the bottom will be shorter. I’m looking at my crap window frames now and see that they’re ALL WRONG (I didn’t do them, they’re old).
You need to determine the angle of both corners of the top of the door frame before doing any cutting. I want to demonstrate just how dramatically the act of changing out some baseboards and door casings and installing simple bead-board wainscoting will change any room of your house. If you choose not to use them, note that the installation of plastic molding differs from that of wood molding. Once these two pieces of trim are cut and placed in position, the two angled cuts should meet perfectly and no filler should be needed at the joint.
Especially for beginners, give yourself leeway and cut slightly more than is necessary for a tight fit. Once you have decided to install your own crown molding and trim, you should spend some time researching the internet and magazines for ideas that you like and how you would like your room to look. In this article, we’ll show you a bunch of tricks you can use to cut door and window casing and baseboard joints to fit perfectly, even when you have less than perfect walls and jambs. Above & Below Some door jambs are twisted so much that you will have large gaps in some spots between molding and jamb.
You couldn’t have posted this at a better time – I have to paint the trim in my bedroom TONIGHT if I want to be able to set up our new (to us – actually my grandfather’s) bedroom suite (queen-sized bed for the first time in our married lives!) this weekend. Cut each template about 12″ long according to the instructions below each picture and then write the instructions directly onto each template.
Putting the same color on all the walls, trim, and doors (sans the main door) will reduce the clutter and stress of the room and make the main door pop. Tack the shoe molding down into the floor with pin nails, and the cap molding into studs wherever possible. Small pieces installed horizontally, several inches down from the ceiling and used to support hooks for hanging artwork on old plaster walls. Consider painting them all the same, the exception being the one main door to the room.
Cutting the moulding in the jig greatly reduces the chance of cutting the mitre incorrectly and you only have to concern yourself with one angle setting per cut. Step 3: Once your molding is cut, you need to paint the back of the molding near the top edge so the unfinished back won’t be reflected in the mirror when the molding is installed. I like to fit baseboard before I begin fastening it. That way I’m not carrying a nail gun and hose with me while I’m fiddling with the drywall, notching inside corners, and generally preparing the molding.
Moldings that dominate a room like door casings, window casings, chair rails and baseboards are usually done with paint-grade so they can be finished with a color that will accent the walls. Splicing – In order to install moulding over large spans, you may have to splice two lengths of moulding together. Cut the angle for a small mitered return on your miter saw, but don’t completely cut if off from the trim stock.
Trim back the drywall with a sharp utility knife until the molding no longer rocks when it’s set in place against the jamb and drywall. The face of the trim end now has a profile that will follow the contours of the trim piece already installed; you just have to cut away the back portion. The material list should include Spackle drywall filler, Dab paintable caulking, a sanding block, wood glue, brad nails, screws for large backing strip and good quality trim paint. I REALLY wish I had this when I was putting up the coffered ceiling It definitely would have moved things along a lot faster. I found the following tools to be absolutely necessary for my large-scale trim project.
That’s why I cope and that’s why I use a rubber mallet to coax everything against the wall and ceiling before I shoot the final nails. Those types of joints will almost always show in the finished product (and reveal that the installer was a novice at installing trim). Ideally, you’ve painted the crown molding the same color as the window, door, and floor trim. To do this practically, such as in the door frame example, position the first piece and then secure it temporarily with a nail at either end. To set up your miter saw for consistent miters, first cut a 3/4-in x 1-1/2-in board the length of your saw base.
Measure and mark the second piece of trim for the wall along the other side of the corner. Installing crown is a bit trickier than other trim because it requires cutting compound angles. Match it up where the back of the saw blade will hit your mark and go out from there, so that the mark is the shorter point of your cut. Once the walls are completely dry, place painter’s blue tape where the trim meets the wall. Your eye is tricked into thinking the crown molding, the wall, and the trim are all one piece. Your pencil mark should be at the top if you have the molding lined up correctly.
Basically, make sure the 2 turned edges of the molding are flush against the bottom and fence of the saw, and also that the molding is upside down. To set this up, I first clamped a length of molding with its edges flush against the saw’s vertical fence and horizontal table. If you are removing old base molding, start by taking a utility knife and carefully cut through any paint that is adhering the base molding to the baseboard. Cut a shim just thick enough to slip under a straightedge spanning the drywall corner.
Practice this cut with some scrap to make sure you are cutting it right… but it should be 22 1/2 degrees across the face and 45 degrees on the edge. I prefer to cut test pieces of trim and see how they fit before transferring the angles to long pieces of expensive trim. When installing beadboard, you really want to have trim molding, both on the top and the bottom of the paneling.
By following our step-by-step instructions, any determined DIY can install crown moulding with professional-quality results. In fact, once the miter is cut, whether you use a coping saw or a jig saw, the cut can be made effortlessly—if you use the tools properly. To make a scarf cut, simply press the back of the molding against the fence of the saw and move the miter to a 45° angle and make your cut. Use long, straight, smooth strokes; cutting all the way through the molding and partially into the two by six scrap. Around large doors, a plinth block can help to transition between wider door casings and baseboards.
The second method, called scribing, involves holding the strip of molding in place, then using a carpenter’s scribe, which resembles a circle-drawing compass, to trace the contour of the wall onto the molding. Most crown profiles are milled 45-45 which makes the projection at the ceiling the same as the height on the wall. Not having to question the angle of the cut on each end of each piece saves time and reduces errors. Bevel the end of the molding to be coped at a 45-degree angle with a miter saw.
The standard way to cut mitered corners is with a miter saw, either a hand saw with a miter box or a power miter saw. Since I was going to be painting the trim I didn’t need more expensive stain grade molding but I still wanted to use solid wood, not composite. If your corner forms a 90º angle, cut each piece at a 45º angle and match them to form an outside corner. Measure the width of the top of the opening where the top piece of door trim will be installed. To create the scarf joint in the middle, place the first board in place and mark a 45-degree cut at a stud location.