I only have a Delta Unisaw right now, but am getting ready to make new extension tables for it and would like to incorporate a homemade slider for cross cutting plywood. For big pieces I like the fence on the top and push against your work and the sled guides the cut, and for small pieces I like the fence on the bottom for safety and push the sled through the cut. I was planning on it taking up the entire space of the table saw with about a foot of it hanging over the left edge. The only major issues I can see with this build is the fact that the table top isn’t nearly stiff enough for serious work and the liability issues. I actually built a cross-cut sled last year that while it cut square enough, it would bind in the slot.
I’m considering just grinding them down (they’re really just tabs molded in to the table so that’s doable), but that’s a one way trip. You can get them, but they are very expensive and most of our well-known domestic companies don’t even make sliding models. Again I took the main concept from the American Woodworker sled with a couple of my own changes. So straight out of the box you’ll be able to rip, crosscut, bevel, miter and with the use of a dado blade, cut rabbets and dado’s. While not necessary to the cutting function of the sled it adds a worthwhile level of additional safety I think is worthwhile.
I think you’ll find that it is pretty hard to make a gap blend in, regardless of what you fill it with. First, screw in a single screw to one side of the fence, from the underside of the sled. You can make a cushioning featherboard to assist you when making this type of cut. In fact, it’s a reasonable assumption you would only have to set aside about 30 minutes to get the SKIL table saw together.
Tip #1: Since most wood movement is with the grain, mill the sled runners with the grain running vertically as shown in the photo. You’ll be glad you have your cauls, crosscut sled, push sticks and squaring jigs for this project! If you are worried about the combined weight of the sled and a heavy workpiece causing the horse to shift, clamp a custom-size block into the gap below the upper stile. Follow common safety rules and precautions as outlined in any manuals related to the equipment being used.
I used 3/4” melamine for my sled base It seems to me that the melamine on both surfaces help keep the material from acquiring much of any bow, and the material is not so rigid you cannot easily push out whatever little bow it may have. It is extremely unsafe to use your table saw’s fence for crosscuts because such a small surface is registered against the fence.
The reason I make them heavy is so that neither the workpiece nor blade will deflect the tracking. With a block covering the blade, you can rest your hands between the 2 fences which keeps your hands away from the blade even more then a single fence sled. One way or another, get the Miter Fence set and clamp it down against the Sled Base so that the clamp clears the saw table top on the left side. Running the sled through to establish the kerf down the middle making sure to stop short and not cut all the way through the sheet of plywood. The best table saw function is to make a large job (cutting a lot of wood) easier.