Tips On Cutting Tenons On Long Stretchers??

Most woodworkers know that the router is an excellent tool for cutting mortises, but how many realize it is great for cutting tenons as well. He uses the machinery to the highest level of precision possible, but still recognizes that a machine is no match for the accuracy of a hand tool in the right hands. The lettering in this figure is as follows:—T, tenons; the small piece of the tenon lettered J is called the haunch, and the shaded portion H is cut away to allow the haunch J to fit the haunching of the stile. Make this cut on all of your pieces, then shift the fence right, again orient the work pieces faces against the fence, then make the final cuts. The size of the jig is very flexible and can be adjusted to fit any size table saw. To achieve a smooth rip-cut on the table saw, you will need to use the proper blade.

The author places the laid-out tenon on the mortise to determine how close to saw to the line. Unlike the Log Clamp where you have to eyeball the direction of your tenons, the Lathe guarantees your tenons at either end of the log to be practically parallel with each other. Another reason for doing the mortises first – they’re usually cut into the bigger, thicker, longer, more expensive pieces of wood. You may want to make more saw cuts along the face so it’s easy to knock out the chunks of wood with a chisel. Descargar musica de Woodworking How To Cut Tenons On A Dado Cross Cut Sled Easy Work Safe Methods en MP3 !

If you’re taking too much material at a time, you’ll feel it in the handles of the router and you’ll hear the router strain. The tenons and the distance between the tenons are more satisfactory if made equidistant, because if slight shrinkage occurs this is partially equalised. I tell students to try to push the saw across the board without scratching the surface.

Spinning the log on the lathe (you’ll see in Method 3) also counts on your eyeball and a steady hand to get the shape right and it also leaves coarse end-grain. The final step to completing these stops is to install an anti slip abrasive tape on the underside of the two stops used on the top of the jig that limit the travel of the router. Lay the finished mortise against the saw blade and set the blade just below the mortise edge.

If I am not using the tenons as a decorative element (as in a through tenon) I just use floating tenons and mortise with the Mortise Pal and router. After the glue dries, Hendrik also cuts off the excess through tenon and wedges with a kugihiki saw and then hand planes the surface dead flush. Before making your first cut, you must decide where to saw the kerf relative to the gauge line. As mentioned in other answers, a matching long tenon can be made with a table saw, a dado blade, and a tenoning jig. Hendrik has always said that hand tools have a far steeper learning curve than machinery.

At the table saw, the surface being cut is down on the table and I like to see what’s going on. Setting up the saw can be fussy, especially if the blade height differs during the course of the project, which it almost always does. When it’s time to cut the smaller shoulders, the boards are stood on end and clamped togeather, providing a wider surface for the router to sit on, and the fence to ride up against.

Make successive passes slowly raising the blade until the tenon face is cut and the shoulder corner is square and finished. Here’s a great table example It’s a beautiful piece, and the engineering of the breadboard ends is pretty much the gold standard. Speed, accuracy, and repeatability: three good reasons to use the tablesaw and a dado blade to cut tenons.

By the end of the weekend, we think you will be convinced that not only are these joints doable by hand (it was, after all, the only way to do them up until the mid 1800’s!), but that hand work can offer a faster approach when doing a one-off piece of furniture. I then turn the chuck clockwise by hand while the inserts begins to feed itself into the material. For biscuit and similar joiners, use a layout line to locate where you will make your cut, and plunge the tool through the length of the line to cut the mortise. I drilled a small hole at the base of each cut so the wood can flex more easily when wedged.

We do not cover basic chisel or plane sharpening – we expect students to have taken the Hand Plane Essentials class or have equivalent skills. There’s a couple steps to setting this up. The first one is we’ve gotta get the saw blade at the right height. With the router unplugged, lay a scrap of the platform material on the baseplate next to the bit. With the tenons cut and inserted into the seat, set the stool on a flat surface, step back and have a look.

I run this surface across the jointer, or at least clean it up with a very light pass through the table saw. Usually, with hidden tenons (the kind where you can’t see any of the joint when it’s assembled) small discrepancies in the sizes of the tenon or mortise are inconsequential. If so, hold the workpiece to the bench with one hand and twist it back into to cut tenons