If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ You’ll find answers to the frequently asked questions as well as basic rules. My current 2, a Ryoibi and its twin an Echo PB-251 I run at about 1/3 throttle for running a large size Goldbuddy dry washer and for vacuming I usually keep my hand on the throttle speeding up and down as needed, I also use another bucket with holes in it to keep it up off the ground when drywashing , put a screen door handle on the side of the vac bucket ,renforced from the inside to assist in dumping.( see Pics).
The Zep has enzymes so I spray a little spot cleaner on the spots (Folex or the home-brew) then mist the worst or the area with a pump-sray bottle…. liightly rub the surface with my hand just to spread it a bit, then soak (sprinkle) the area with the sprinkler can (with the diluted home-brew, mostly water with tide and vinegar), rub by hand again (lightly, just to spread again, then vac it all up….works great.
I bet you can get good results with a 3-gallon garden pump sprayer if you don’t want to get the carpet so soaked but my big wet vac pulls it up pretty good….. remember to let it get some air flow and I use the 6-inch gulper nozzle for most of the cleaning… you can actually pull up the carpet a bit and pull a lot of air through the backing and all.
If you need help dislodging the soil,a variant of the wet methods described using compressed air and a high PSI nozzle will cut through the dirt as well as create a choking dust storm.Otherwise, typical garden implements can be used to scrape away the once a sufficient area is excavated you will have more room and a ‘face’ to work like the big tunnel jobs they show on TV 8-).
Put in a central vac – I had the rough-in when we bought this house and at some point somebody had it hooked up, but the place allocated for the vac was in the furnace cupboard – might have been ‘convenient’ but a stupid place (and illegal) to put it. With quite a lot of effort I was able to drill some holes in the garage and sneak the pipe through, around some ducts.
I have, for my purposes, concluded that if I am going to get into the four figures for a dust collection system (which is pretty much unavoidable once you get into cyclones of any efficiency level), I’d want one with four inch ducting and a sufficient number of gates to handle my stationary tools and to make sucking up hand planings and so on easy and efficient.
At this point, I could turn the vac on and go upstairs to vacuum and then back down to shut if off however that would become mundane awful fast. I recommend anyone looking at dust extraction for woodwork equipment do a google on Bill Pentz and check out his web page on how to build an adequate system and why you absolutely need it. Until then, I’ll just keep rolling my stationary tools to the shop door, turn on a big fan behind them, and leit it all blow outside, and then clean the tools with my Shop-vac. I have been cleaning the filters in my shop vac with water for over twenty years and haven’t had a problem.
You need no screen on the suction as all you will be sucking up is dust and very fine sands. They put the fish filets in the tupperware and then they put the sticker on the lid, so we don’t get the wax paper and plastic bag wrapping. Dust collectors have higher air flow but lower static pressure than a shop vac. There are also a few different dust collector vacs at woodworking stores like rockler.
The Oneida Air Systems Dust Deputy Cyclone collector allows you to effectively capture and filter Dust particle using a Shop vacuum. I bought my first shop vacuum after a toilet decided to back up all over the bathroom. In other words, dust collectors are better at sucking in all the dust chips and fine dust. I have been using the Dust Deputy for about two years and I really like it. I don’t remember the last time I changed my dust filter or needed to. I do know that I haven’t changed it since I got the dust Deputy. I use the small shop vac to clean my pellet stove and I have to have the bags due to the fine ash.