Hand planes are the living link between woodworking hands and the wood they work on, bonding the craftsman to the craft. Note: We cannot guarantee that the blades offered here fit any other planes than those spezified below. All my wedged planes are cut out in the middle and only wedge tightly at the edges, where the wedge also bears against the plane body. Plane parts: 1. cutting iron; 2 plane-iron cap; 3. cap screw; 4. lever cap; 5. frog; 6. Y adjustment; 7. Y-adjustment screw; 8. lateral adjustment lever; 9. handle; 10, knob. Below is my list of top hand plane brands (bigger manufacturers), with special ebay search links to each brand.
A particularly popular sort of groove-cutting plane is a plow plane, which generally comes with eight or more blades in different widths, each of which can be adjusted to various depths, and has an adjustable fence so it can make a wide range of grooves and rabbets in varying distance from the edge of the wood. Plane.-A plane is in principle (roughly speaking), as you will readily see, nothing but a chisel stuck through a block of wood or iron.
A scrub plane , which removes large amounts of wood quickly, is typically around 9 inches (230 mm) long, but narrower than a smoothing plane, has an iron with a curved cutting edge, and has a wider mouth opening to accommodate the ejection of thicker shavings/chips. I have found my endurance to be more than twice what I had using metal-bodied planes for stock prep.
Even in the 19th century, plow planes, the most treasured plane in a woodworker’s kit, were purchased for show, particularly those made of exotic woods like boxwood, rosewood, and ebony, with ivory for the locking nuts and arm tips. At some point, a year or more later, the plane soles are lifted to milling machines and the work begins to develop meeting points on the inside of the sole where the frog, the central hub governing all of the plane’s future settings, registers on three fixed points inside the mid section of the sole. It would cost you a lot of money and time in acquiring these planes to study if you could even find them.
It is a great plane and a keeper” for me. I don’t use it all the time, but when I need it, I really need it. There is nothing like a long plane like this one achieve the final flattening of a board. When the wooden face becomes so deformed from use, it can be replaced with another spud from Sterling Tool Works or made by the owner of the hammer. But, in my experience, planes usually appear to be worse than they really are in the photos, and are often just really dirty. Until about 1900 most spoke shaves had wooden bodies, hand forged low angle blades fitted into the holes in the body and were adjusted by tapping the ends of the tangs.
One will be a double iron plane, using the 2″ wide double iron from the middle plane pictured above (I bought the plane just for the iron). The body should not be twisted (put it on a known flat surface like a jointer table or surface plate and check if it rocks) and the sole should be close to 90 degrees to the sides of the plane. A small Lie Neilson 1/2 shoulder plane will get an awful lot of use just adjusting joints when taking a shaving off here and there to get a perfect fit.
But if you want a fantastic plow plane, go for a wooden screw arm plow plane with a variety of cutters. It is a real examination of the actual antique planes and considers how to produce them with tooling that is possible to use today. You can buy less expensive planes but you will spend an awful lot of time faffing around with flatness and making the blade sit securely within the mechanism of the plane body. Working together with renowned blade manufacturer, IBC, we proud to introduce the new line of Pinnacle® IBC/Cosman plane blade/breaker matched sets.
The new website is part of an effort to take this business to the next level, and to reestablish the traditional double iron wooden plane as a viable option for hand tool woodworkers. When cutting rabbets, a dedicated rabbet plane is superior to a combination plane, especially if it has a skewed (angled) iron for cross grain cutting. PLEASE CLICK ON THE STORE TAB IN THE MENU ABOVE TO PURCHASE The Sterling Plane Hammer was designed for its intended use; adjusting the blades in hand planes. We are fed up of seeing people believe it is their fault that they cannot plane or chisel or scribe when it is the manufacturer at fault.
Over the past few weeks we filmed making wooden planes and incorporating the body with a retrofitted adjustment facility in the form of the Stanley (or Record) frog, replete with matching cutting iron assembly unit. Sharpen the plane irons according to their instructions, then assemble the cap iron to each blade, leaving about 1/32 in. exposed at the cutting edge. I am just saying that you can take the extra effort to shape the sole to receive the whole frog if you wish so as to retain the frog for interchangeability using both the original metal-cast plane and your new wooden ones.
One thing I didn’t notice right away is that, unlike a traditional shoulder plane (like the Record or Stanley versions or any version with a traditional design), your shoulder plane NEVER clogs the escapement, but beautifully spits out the chips. The brass end of the head will not deform steel and the wooden insert end is kind to the body. The blade is slightly wider than the sole of the plane and projects out both sides. Wooden planes couldn’t compete with the incredible variety of cast-iron planes that Stanley and others introduced year after year. Memorabilia collectors and history buffs treasure the uniqueness and history of these Wooden Hand planes.
Router planes are very useful and necessary for cleaning out dado joints (for shelves) and mortise bottoms, for creating a level base for decorative inlays, leveling tenon cheeks, cutting out mortises for hinges, etc. This is what is called a ‘tap and try’ plane and requires a little bit of expertise in use as it’s adjusted in a slightly different way to modern planes which are fitted with screw adjusters. These modifications do not affect the usability of the iron, with its cap iron, in the wooden plane. When re-gluing the boxing into the plane body I make sure that they are all lined up properly on the same plane.
Stanley No. 2 Smoothing Plane : This small smoothing plane is also too small for adult hands, but a bit less expensive than the No. 1. The Bailey and Bedrock designs became the basis for most modern metal hand plane designs manufactured today. Watch the nail heads to make sure they are set deep enough to prevent damage to the hand plane. A jack plane is around 14 inches (360 mm) long, continues the job of roughing out, but with more accuracy and flattening capability than the scrub. I’ve just finished reading through this book, but haven’t tried making a plane yet.