Epoxy and polyurethane are great for protecting your floor against stains, damage, chemicals, oils, and wear. It’s not hard to understand why: installing or refinishing a wood floor is a serious investment, so homeowners are tempted to save a few bucks by going with the cheapest quote. Unfortunately, you can’t just sand just the polyurethane off of a hardwood floor and not remove wood too… if you try you will burn through to the stain or wood in some spots while totally missing others.
Our hardwood refinishers have told me that using water-based polyurethane on natural wood floors can result in the floors having a subtle green tinge. FIRST AID: In case of eye contact, flush thoroughly with large amounts of water for 15 minutes and get medical attention. Yes the oil based does smell strong, but we would much prefer to get the best durability and so the tradeoff is worth it. I did try to use the Vote Feature on your website and of course chose Oil, but it came back with invalid entry so you may want to look into that….or could be my browser so not sure. Peter found an 18th-century recipe based on linseed oil, turpentine, and coal tar for color.
Synteko produces a comprehensive range of floor finishes namely non-toxic water-based coatings, solvent based finishes and oil timber floor seals. Guarantee that if you were sand a 1×1 area on your floor and then recoat it with oil, you will notice the ambering of the oil polyurethane. While I do not recommend attempting to Sand and Refinish your hardwood floors yourself (as I have seen countless disasters), I do feel comfortable in recommending polyurethane so that you (or hopefully) your installer uses top quality products.
You have a right to know whether your wood floor company’s most recent clients are happy with the job. For deep water stains, apply an oxalic acid paste and leave on for 5 to 10 minutes, then wipe away with a dry cloth. If water spots are a problem, clean the floor in the same direction as the wood grain, and it will be less noticeable. While there is nothing magic about using this seal coat (their straight, full-strength polyurethane will seal the wood just as well) it can save you an enormous amount of time.
Let the oil soak into the wood for at least two hours and avoid walking on the flooring or replacing any rugs or furniture until dry. If you are restoring an existing wood floor or adding a new one, knowing what the finish options are will help guide you to a floor that is compatible with your old house’s appearance and practical for your lifestyle. The basic ingredient is tung oil, a naturally occurring, low-VOC oil that hardens as it dries.
Essentially, tung oil works by seeping into the wood and hardening, which, on a floor, allows the wood grain itself to take the wear of foot traffic. Monocoat is a product we’ve had good success with refinishing oiled wood floors. Yes, you may need to screen & recoat to blend, and I would still recommend oil based to be consistent. Penetrating-seal-treated and oil-treated floors: Also common, a penetrating seal or oil finish soaks into the wood grain and hardens. OBP offered a significant leap in durability over paste wax and changed wood flooring forever.
Because water-based polyurethane dries so much faster than the oil-based variety, applying it requires a certain degree of skill. These types of finishes include linseed oil, tung oil, and various specialty oils such as lemon, walnut, soy, and Danish oil (a mixture of oil and varnish). It is also more likely to match existing wood if you are only refinishing portions of your home.
Solvent based finishes like varnish and lacquer contain a good deal of organic solvents, which create an environmental and health impact and they are flammable. We came back, moved in our furniture and the floors showed permanent marks from the air filled rubber tire hand trucks that were used to move in our belongings. Dura Seal polyurethane come in three gloss levels: satin, semi-gloss and gloss.
Your wood floor may have come from trees that weathered wind and rain and snow … but natural hardwood flooring needs to have a finish applied to be protected from the elements of everyday use in your home. VOC levels: Vary widely, from no VOCs or very low levels for products such as hardwax oils with a vegetable base, to 750 g/L for hybrid oils such as tung oil with a high percentage of mineral spirits as their solvent. Synteko has developed three world-class leading, yet distinctly different oil finishes.
Wax is the time-tested, old-fashioned way to refinish wood floors and was routinely used before polyurethanes became available in the 1970s. In my experience, I’ve found the water-based poly to be all I need for most furniture pieces, but when working on a piece that will be used for a dining room table or sink, I go with oil. Both water based and oil based poly smell, and we still recommend that customers go away or stay somewhere else while this work is being done. And everyone else that says oil better than water and water better than oil has got to stop arguing. Generally speaking, polyurethane is plastic and builds its strength through multiple layers.
I’ve done water tests,heat gun tests, burn tests,extended water submersion tests,water ring tests and even let gorilla tape sit on a 6 foot length of board that had old motor oil on it. I had sealed the board with zinnser bullseye and top coated with Polly. Except for certain prefinished flooring materials, there are only three basic hardwood floor surface finishes, oil surface, wax surface and polyurethane surface floors. Ratings are subject to change based on consumer feedback, so check Angie’s List for the most up-to-date reviews.
The water based polyurethane would need to be sanded off first however in order for the polyurea/polyaspartic coating could be applied. When asked, he said that he used the oil to enhance the grain, but he didn’t like the look of the oil alone because it made the wood (hickory) look too yellow. While high quality waterborne finishes do well in Taber abrasion tests, real world durability doesn’t equal that of oil poly.
Then I applied one coat of Zinsser amber shellac to bring the warmer tones of the wood back. Wood Finish Polyurethane Varnish Tips – Drying Tip: Preheat your home to 72 degrees, then turn it down to 65 degrees 15 minutes before coating. In most cases, she said, refinishing floors oneself can cut the cost considerably. Tougher finishes, such as traditional varnishes and polyurethane coatings, go through a second stage called polymerization or cross-linking: The resin molecules react with oxygen and bond to form a film that cannot be redissolved by the original solvent. I have heard of some using boiled linseed oil over the aniline dye and under the poly.
Oil-based polyurethane is fairly toxic, and requires precautions against inhaling fumes or allowing skin exposure. Oils are a surprisingly good alternative to solvent based lacquers and varnish, they are 100% solids (no solvents), and come from renewable resources however, oil-soaked rags must be disposed of carefully. At those points in time, the water based poly looks worse than the oil based – in fact, it’s usually peeling off and the hardwood is starting to look gray. The heat-treating process makes the oil a tad bit more durable and speeds up the dry rate.
And coat the same amount of area, this will help you get an even coverage throughout your floors. Reactive finishes undergo a chemical change as they cure, making them not only more difficult to repair but also more durable (except for linseed and tung oil) than most evaporative finishes. Urethane finished floors look the best the day they are installed and continue to get scratched, scuffed and worn over time until you have to be recoated or refinished. Finish floors in moderate weather (temperatures in the 70 F range) so that the finish dries properly.
No matter how many coats of polyurethane are on the floor, it’s the top one that takes the beating and the floor will still need an additional coat of polyurethane in five to seven years. When mixed as a wood floor finish with its alcohol solvent, however, VOC levels are around 730 g/L. Make no mistake – creating a beautiful and long-lasting finish for a wood floor is a trade and an art.
Extra-durable acrylic finishes and conversion-varnish sealers (also known as Swedish finishes) keep hardwood floors looking good for many years. Essentially a plastic in the form of a liquid until it dries, polyurethane is available in both water- and oil-based options, and comes in varieties from satin to glossy. We did two coats and have had no issues with it. But we didn’t expect any having already had very good experience with the oil poly.
The rapid drying of water-based polyurethane does present the advantageous ability to apply all four required coats in a single day. Accordingly, Ms. Holmes said, the first thing a homeowner with drab floors should do is determine whether the floor truly needs to be refinished – which means sanding off the existing finish down to bare wood – or whether it should just be recoated. Water spots all over your lovely waxed hardwood floor: use mineral spirits on a very fine steel wood pad to carefully rub out the spot, then reapply a fine layer of liquid or paste wax to re-protect the area.
Convenience – Dry times and smells – water based finishes dry in 2-3 hours per coat and have very little odor (smells like a very mild cleaning product). You might even recall an eZine interview a while ago in which I interviewed the folks at Rust-Oleum about this product and the company’s other new Wood Care finishes, or a blog post from one of their recent visits to the office So, time to give it a try for myself. Even oil soaps sold for cleaning wood can leave a sticky residue that traps dust. Over time, the wood becomes dry and depleted of oils from foot traffic and normal wear and tear.