Longer blades (like planer / jointer blades) present a unique challenge in sharpening, especially doing it freehand. Now, when you use the honing guide, you can use this to set the plane blade at the same distance every time. The plastic spacer 19 is placed between blade 10 and the honing device 14 so that blade 9 can be honed. Sharpen planer and jointer knives to a razor keen edge without removing them from cutterheads. There is a full length guide 6 extending below the planar blade sharpening holder to track inside of miter slot 7 in the bed of table saw 2. There is dust flying around or sparks flying that is the norm for the traditional grinder equipment. Regardless of which blades you use on a thickness planer they will need to be sharpened.
The way I produce these single facets on planer knives, jointer knives, chisels and plane irons makes secondary bevels unnecessary. Present day methods of sharpening planer blades are based on long-established patents and generally involve either the use of a milling machine or a sharpening device attached to the planer itself. If you are unsure of the cost leave it all to us and we will send you an e-bill on completion. When sharpening a new plane blade you are going to need to flatten the face before you sharpen the bevel. The idea is that the blade will clamp into it and the arm and roller at the back would set the correct angle for sharpening.
As a young lad in Ohio, he watched his father sharpen knives and tools, (the family used the extra money for their vacations.) It was not long until his father taught him the secret of how to run the sharpening machines and gave him some simple jobs. I always think of the knives I am sharpening as truing tool for the stones while they are being sharpened.
The first is more a question of components: the stone that came with my sharpener seems to be off-centered; the nib and arbor hole are aligned, but the perimeter travels in an irregular path making both the initial blade approach and consistent pressure a little tricky. Through this inspection our specially trained staff will determine what service are required.
After twenty plus years of use, other than the wheel wearing away, the cracked housing on my machine is all that is wrong with it. And that is from me being a gorilla when it comes to tightening things. Someone around here (Jim Phillips?) posted that he uses his cheap Harbor Freight planer to get the glue off and knock down the stringer before using his good planer with sharp blades on the rest. Also, I have purchase parts direct from Makita for this planer and have gotten great service. After sharpening the bevel you may want to put a micro bevel on the end of the blade.
However, I found that when I do this, the sharpening doesn’t work, since you very quickly grind off the lowest spot at each point on the blade, at which point the sharpening stops since the blade is no longer in contact with the stone, and is instead being supported by the tool rest. The process starts by placing a plastic spacer between one of the two blades and a very fine sharpening stone or device, while the sharpening device contacts the other blade. When I first started woodworking professionally I was at the mercy of sharpening services. Use a fine grit diamond sharpening stone unless the blade is very dull or chipped, in which case start with a coarse grit.
I run it blade down on my stationery belt sander (80 grits) and finish it on sand paper and a stone. Forstner bits receive the highest quality of sharpening that gives our customers a perfect cut every time. Like sharpening a chisel, you won’t have to deal with the back until you wear down that 1” of the plane blade that you’ve polished up. This will take years. Once the first blade is complete place the spacer under the sharpening device of the completed blade and hone the second blade. It is not just planer blades it can take either – (narrow) chisels, hand plane blades etc all can fit.