No, not a new species, but rather the standard color of American walnut for quite a few years now. I like to make lucets and in Medieval times they would use melted beeswax to treat their wood objects, drinking vessels, bowls, etc. Here it is…my secret to covering up water stains, that red stain wood that was popular in the 1930’s &, 1940’s , Mahogany colored stains or preventing wood tannins from bleeding through my painted pieces of furniture or cabinets.
The problem is if you finish this wood with oil or similar product it will change quickly to a brownish color. Wood can be forgiving as long as you don’t saturate it, and let it dry between tries. I’ve also read about using beach or oxalic acid to lighten the wood and remove the tannins but haven’t tried it yet. I also tried cutting the solution with more vinegar which lightened the stain a bit, but still turned it black. For very large areas such as floors, we recommend an oil-based product such as Minwax® Wood Finish stain. The color of your wood will change gradually as the solution reacts with the wood.
I have about 5000 b.f. of home sawn air dried walnut from northern Illinois and it always has that purple hue when I begin to work it. I find that over time, as it ages, the brown tone becomes more intense and brilliant as the purple changes. You’ll also get fingerprints/handprints/footprints on the wood from the natural oils in your son’s skin. Then two coats of shellac to seal the wood with a final sand after the last coat. Today I am working with Cabot Wood Stain to share their new Premium Wood Finish , a stain + sealer product that you can use to restore the finish on your furniture.
In general, the action of ultraviolet light on wood acts to move the natural color of the wood the ‘other direction’. For pens, I need only a very small amount of stain, and I’m wondering if an assortment of artist’s oil paints would make a suitable stain. I plan to use the manufacturer’s gel stain (ThermaTru) on both the fiberglass door and the wood trim, hoping to get them to match. The Purple Painted Lady just completed painting 40 cabinet doors for a home in Penfield, New York.
Im wondering if I need the stain or can just do clear varnish but if it comes out exactly like wet then it is too red. If the stain is older, you may need to make up a paste of rottenstone (a very fine abrasive, found in some hardware and paint stores) and baking soda, mixed with mineral oil, linseed oil or lemon oil. That would give the wood the most protection and require the least maintenance from you.
Finely sanding the wood before applying stain will result in a lighter color as opposed to coarse sanding which will make it darker. I tried Clorox (4 parts water, 1 part Clorox) and man this took as close to 100% of the stain out of the stock that I think you could ever hope for. Once the wax is mixed, find a soft old rag or a chip brush (cheap paint brush) that you never want to use again, dip it in the wax, and apply a very thin coat of wax with the grain of the wood. One of the most popular and versatile stain colours as all Maple stains are clearly not created equal!
Now four years later the box is brown on brown with pretty ash and zebra wood being the only elements that endured. Since I am impatient, I really love that the Cabot Wood Stain is a fast drying formula that dries in 2-1/2 hours between coats and fully dries in only 6 hours. I do this in sections, because if the stain sits on there too long, it’ll start drying and won’t leave a subtle antiqued finish. From furniture to floors, trust Minwax® products that beautify and protect wood.
The process opens up the pores or grain of the hardwood allowing for a deeper penetration of stain. Then, as the wood dries, 90% of it goes away with the water…had such a tree in a rental home years ago, Arborists pruned it in winter, I gathered these branches, waxed them, all excited, then watched them fade to pretty much nothing, as they dried out over a year or so, lol! I also would suggest the red cedar heartwood for a replacement with some purple woods, too.
If applying Wood Protector to a garden building that will be subjected to high levels of exposure to weather, it is recommended that you apply Protek Clear Tough Coat as a top coat. A resealable plastic bag is ideal for immersing the wood, depending on how large the piece of wood is. If it is really large, use a plastic tub. Again, while purple heart wood is known for its distinct color, and while you are free to apply to stain to it, this would largely defeat the purpose of using purple heart wood in the first place. Andy and I looked around and both realized at the exact same moment, OMG, it looks SO purple right now!
Just some of the metal at The Purple Painted Lady this weekend at our Macedon location…. Dianne LOVES the roosters the most and insisted in being in my photos. The resulting stock now looks almost like virgin wood but with a very slight light yellowish hue to it. I have not sanded it yet. With purpleheart I found that if you sprayed Son of a Gun” or something like it on the wood that it protects it from UV related issues.
And yes, I do realize that ‘espresso’ does not come from a tree (it comes from a coffee machine and is necessary to my survival) but it is a very popular stain. All of these homemade stains leave the wood unsealed, which means the stain may rub off, and liquids may penetrate the wood. The espresso finish can change drastically depending on what type of wood it is on. Notice how it can even take on a greenish hue when applied to some oaks. If it’s too large for that, I probably wouldn’t use a liquid or paste wood filler.
Everyone’s been asking us what will be moving into our current space when we move around the corner next to AXOM Gallery & Exhibition Space in a few weeks and we can finally tell you: The Purple Painted Lady! Additional coats will deepen the purple wood stain colour and waterproof at the same time. I tried putting the mixture on plain wood (to see how dark it was) and it left only a very faint color. If your stain is still too light even after a few days, though, you have options.
Any oil/wax will darken the color a bit, but they’ll protect the wood and keep the color of the wood from rubbing off on your sheets/rug. This will help ensure even stain color penetration and reduce grain raising on soft and hard woods. Household bleach will also lighten some species of raw wood slightly, generally the darker species like mahogany, walnut, and black or red oak.