Why We Like Waterlox

This Video provides an overview of the proper techniques for opening and closing Waterlox Original Tung oil finishes packaged in rectangular / f-style cans. It is significantly cheaper in the long run, gets you a finished surface much faster (or very close to it), and is much healthier because there’s much less dust in your shop (which creates a better environment for applying your finish for those of us in garage shops”.) Granted, you can’t or shouldn’t plane or scrape every project, but I wonder what your reasons are for avoiding it altogether.

Most sealers are either diluted coatings intended to provide deep and thorough initial penetration of the coating into the wood fibers, or a compatible material which can isolate (seal in) what is below from what is above.” This through-and-through wetting with a sealer sets up a better base or foundation for the next coats to bond to. It just helps.

I’m in southern California and had a stack of unfinished kiln-dried western red cedar sitting in my driveway (in preparation for a fence) for a mere 2 days when lo and behold termites showed up and started making holes in it. The wood was about 70% heartwood (ie, the bug- and rot-resistant part of the wood), and the bugs targeted only the sapwood portions.

Ten different bed wood finishing methods are being evaluated, and three oak boards have been finished by each method for a total of 30 boards being tested. Waterlox Original Tung oil finishes are also water and chemical resistant (alcohol and alkali). Here are a couple phots of my walnut countertop which currently has four coats of Waterlox that were applied in February or so. 2 coats original first, then 2 coats of the satin.

Waterlox vs. Shellac – Shellac is the standard finish on Early American furniture, providing a penetrating seal and flexible finish that can be polished and refreshed for touch ups or revitalization However shellac is easily damaged by water or alcohol. Waterlox Original Tung Oil products can be used around stoves (also unaffected by boiling water/liquids). Shellac also raises the grain better, penetrating the wood pores deeper better then oil sealers, which do not raise grain. I am a woodworker who just used treated wood for an outdoor product and had the same question you did.

Dlspellman – – I hope you’re still checking in because I just saw your beautiful built-in refrigerator on the Kitchen Forum and would like to know the finish on the handles and where you got them. In most environments, in the first year, if care is taken in maintaining tops as stated above, tops will need less future maintenance since a durable, seasoned mineral oil finish is accomplished. But I’d also probably test it one more time by skipping the Arm-R-Seal immediately on top of Waterlox because I’m not sure that’s adding much of to the equation at that step. Waterlox Original is probably one of the most water-resistant things you can apply.

And the waterlox brand have finishes that are more like varnishes than oils, but are suitable for floors. Benjamin, I used Waterlox marine extensively on the douglas fir trim and even a small outdoor bar for 6 years on my house in San Diego. The finish will get harder over the years, and should last 10-20 years in light use areas. Beauty – Waterlox provides a rich, hand-rubbed patina that enhances the white pine grain and brings out its inherent beauty. Once the wax is applied (any floor finish has to cure for at least 1 month) you can only touch up with wax, not the floor finish any more.waterlox wood finish

This elegant, one-of-a-kind finish has been made by the Hawkins family since 1910, and is still made by hand according to the original family formula. Some clients choose to topcoat the Waterlox with a waterbased urethane after installing if application issues dictate. This is exactly the situation for wood bleach (not household bleach), and you’ll be in control. We highly recommend the Tung Oil/Citrus finish over the mineral oil finish for tops that will be used as cutting surfaces.waterlox wood finish

Polyurethane (a type of varnish) is one of the most commonly used wood finishes today. You can apply another two coats and be done with your finishing or you can use a tung oil varnish to finish. And a bit of stain was thrown in some of the distressed marks to highlight them prior to Waterlox. I have been thinking about using Waterlox marine sealer and finish on my outdoor cedar furniture which are two different products in conjunction with one another. I followed their very detailed how-to guide on their web site to make sure I got the finish I was looking for.

The end result is a pretty clear indication of both what our flooring will look like finished with just tung oil, and what each successive coat of the Waterlox will is able to do to bring out the luster of the wood. The advantage of Poly is that customers would have no maintenance to deal with on their top’s finish until it wears down. It enhances natural features of the wood, without covering the texture of the wood in a plastic looking” finish. That benefit alone is probably the single thing that sold me on Waterlox for my floors.

After encountering these problems I turned to the internet for help and found most articles stated that it was the easiest finish in the world to apply and was fool proof. The pic’s of the walnut countertop (excellent work BTW) are a great example of the natural beauty of the finish imparted by Waterlox. Keep in mind that this finish should be reapplied often to maintain effectiveness. But there’s another way to skin the cat if you’ve already applied the waterlox and arm-r-seal.