A jointer plane typically has a body length of 22 inches (56 cm) or longer. The trick to approaching these areas is to do it at angles the run closer to longwise with the cathedral”, with a sharp iron set for a thin shaving and the plane body skewed to the direction of planing. Now all the flat surfaces of my furniture are flat, not wavy, and the edges are not rounded off by trying to sand flat. Sorry but the anti-slip mats are not going to be able to hold a work piece against the forces a hand plane can generate. The notch holds one corner of your board and works in conjunction with a planing stop.
The minute wood enters a normally heated shop it will start moving and the only way to have a stable project is to first sticker it and then let the wood acclimate to the workshop climate. If, in any position, your straight edge sits on the wood in a way that leaves gaps underneath it, you’ll know that the section of the wood your straight edge is making contact with is a high spot. Whatever the planing task before you or the type of plane to be used, there are some constants.
Doug Orr will be attending the Hand Tools Fest 2010 being held at Louis Riel Secondary School in Blackburn Hamlet on May 15. He’ll a collection of his tools for sale there. Make sure you go through the pallets and sort according to condition and type of wood(if possible). Really anything will do as long as it sturdy enough not to dance around the floor when you get planing and it has a flat enough top.
As you can see, the are the nice, board-length curls you come to expect from a hand plane. In both cases, the fibers lie flat until finish is applied, and then stand up, swollen and stiffened with the finish. Fact is that 1/32″ to 1/16″ seems ideal to me and that’s after 48 years in daily hand planing my work. Something common that happens when planing over cathedral grain, is that when planing with the grain, the plane whisks over these areas, and the thin late wood of the growth ring just separates and pops loose.
I prefer to plane directly across the grain as opposed to planing across the surface at 45 degrees as I have found there is a lot less chance of tearout particularly on irregular grained woods. The chisel plane , which removes wood up to a perpendicular surface such as from the bottom inside of a box. Also, you’ll get as good at clamping as you are at using your own tools, one thing my woodworking kinsfolk told me early on, is to learn how to clamp properly before you touch steel to wood…otherwise you can screw the whole job to heck!
If the plane you are using has a depth stop, work until it contacts the workpiece and stops the planing. Thank you for showing me how to hold the plane (the handle sure seemed awful small!), how to sharpen the parts (no, not just the blade) and what distance to position the chip breaker to the blade (no wonder the wood kept on getting stuck inside of the plane)! Be sure to have a small square with you at all time while planing, and check your progress after every stroke.
I’ve built a workbench and miter saw table/stand and step stool using the pallet wood. Hendrik proves that hand planes always result in a convex edge after multiple strokes and then shows you how to use a stopped cut to get a very straight surface in the end. Ive been tuning my hand planes for a while now and still have problems with maple. These also come in a series of grits but must be maintained regularly to stay flat. To build quality traditional furniture, you need to start with perfectly flat and square lumber.
Securing the wood is important but again this can be done by screwing battens or blocks around the wood or by a more traditional method using a combination of dogs, holdfasts, battens or a vice. Still using the trying plane, but with the blade set a lot finer, the next stage requires you to plane the full length of the table to get it flat in its length. The wedge was tapped into the mortise and adjusted with a small mallet , a piece of scrap wood or with the heel of the user’s hand.
I think I understand the concept of using a shooting board to joint after getting one face flat, but can’t figure out how to make the other face parallel and square. And one of the big benefits of using a hand plane it the amount of sanding work you eliminate – so the quality of the edge on your hand planes matters a lot. I use it every time I am in the shop and really enjoy hand planes now that I have a good one.
Surface finishes, such as varnish or lacquer, do not bring out the figure as well as oil for two reasons: (1) the finish does not penetrate as deeply and (2) light must travel through a thickness of film before striking the wood and bouncing back through again. The concern with cathedral grain is that early and the late wood of the growth ring lay right there, and they come up all the way to the surface. I don’t have a good hand plane so I definitely wouldn’t apply any finishes without some sanding.
We have a full product line of tools and jigs for use in both hand and power tool woodworking, that help improve your skills and workflow, while improving your speed, accuracy and in many cases, help keep you safe. Aside from these specs, you should also consider machine features, a number of knives, speed, and capacity when choosing the right planer for you. If I want to plane something thicker, I can tilt the planing stop up in my vise.