After pre-painted trim is installed, the nail holes and outside corner gaps are filled with wood putty, and other gaps are filled with caulk. If you are sanding pine floorboards you may want to empty the edger bag before the 60/50 grit edge sanding and use that dust to fill the floor. I cleaned out all the rotted wood, then applied PC-Petrifer, and then used J-B Weld Wood Restore Repair Putty, and finally applied a solid stain. What you need to do is to get your hands on some sawdust that is of the same, or at least a similar colour to your floor (unless of course you still have some from when your floor was installed). Tom, if you’re talking about an exterior deck then I would use Abatron because of the tough conditions.
It’s best to do this process before your project is assembled and before it’s sanded, stained or finished. Wider gaps in floors may require rope, foam backing rod or other method to prevent the filler from falling through the gap during application. The issue with my floors aren’t due to heat/moisture problems, since the gaps are all huge and they don’t really close-up in the summer with the excess humidity. Unlike Abatron, where you have to get the wood dry before proceeding with the repair.
GJP Floor Sanding are a London floor sanding and restoration company that offers a premium finishes at great value. Or you can fill with an epoxy like the WoodEpox and make sure you coat the deck with a opaque stain to hide and protect the patches. Thanks for your execellent article.I had two querries.I bought a second hand sheesham wood table which has a slight but long gap between the filler can I use. Filling a defect that has a round shape or straight lines will be far more noticeable to the eye afterward than a repair in the shape of an oval (or a biscuit). After paint-grade trim is nailed in place, the nail holes and gaps need to be filled.
The contractor used brass or copper nails on the trim and galvanized nails on the fascia boards and while some are flush, most are recessed/countersunk 1/8-1/4 inch and I’m now getting black teardrops/weeping from those that are recessed. Another thing worth checking out is wood wizzards for rot repair, With this you can proceed with the repair even while the wood is still damp, which is very handy. Get some tints from you local paint store and mix the colors yourself to come as close as you can to the wood color. Apply it with a putty knife or whatever tool is most applicable to your project.
Unless you have a special foam applicator gun the flow of this stuff is impossible to control in the precise way needed to fill gaps this small. This method is frequently used on softwood or pine floorboards and we regularly use reclaimed pine strips to fill such gaps. In the case of floor boards, Peter uses a method that involves cutting strips of Hardboard and MDF, which is then glued in the gap, but also sits on the joists, so can’t fall through.
I’m hoping to avoid that most of the time, though, because some of these gaps are located at the most beautiful parts of the slabs, like at the crotch, where the figure looks like flame. Depends if you want to refinish after filling, I guess both of these methods would probably need sanding back to bare wood once the glue has dried. I’ve rented a sander and have refinished a floor at my father’s house in the past. Cut the strips of wood to fit each of the gaps, making sure the shape of the strips is wider at the top than at the bottom.
If the gaps are especially large or pronounced at certain times of the year, consider the following alternatives. Great Stuff sticks tenaciously to everything and is very difficult to remove, so if you sprayed it on the trim around the window, you would have a major cleanup project in September or October. Professional floor sanders use different methods to fill the gaps between the floor boards. Tyanna, I would use standard wood filler or Durham’s Water Putty for this repair.
Glue and sawdust: Using a mixture of wood glue and sawdust to fill a hole or crack in a project allows you to match the wood you’re working with exactly because you use sawdust that created while milling the boards for the project. For gaps that appear during dry, cold weather, try increasing the humidity level in the house by running a humidifier. If the strips are not fully mated and held firmly until the glue dries, gaps will develop. Be honest with you, get a few barrels of floor oil and sop the hell out of the boards.
Product Open times vary time the product is workable Solvent based products go off quickly, 15-20 minutes max, whereas the water based products take quite a bit longer to go off depending on how wide the gaps are, normally about 45-60 minutes. I only know of one hull that required absolutely no filling what so ever, and it wasn’t one of mine. If it’s just to fill holes or gaps you don’t want I’d be more inclined towards a PVA based woodglue & use as fine sawdust as you can.
According to the Energy Saving Trust, just filling gaps between floor and skirting boards will save around 20 and 100kg of CO2 annually, paying for itself in less than a year. Using some new water repellents and drainage aids, I believe you can get strips of wood to last at least 30 or 40 years, if not more. I have an old splintering deck and picnic table, both previously stained over 5 years ago. Bondo is not flexible enough and often it ends being pushed out by the wood and causing more damage. I sand the floor to 60 grit, empty the dust bag, then sand the floor with 80 grit.
We adore this pre-mixed filler because it shrinks less than any other filler we have tried, which makes it a better choice if you insist on filling larger areas. My deck railing has become the site of hungery wood bees drilling holes and wood chips indicate wood peckers are enlarging the holes. I’ll give it a try with stainable wood filler in an inconspicuous spot and let you know how it comes out. The consistency you’re aiming for is a bit like a thick putty, which you then introduce into the gaps using a spatula. Don’t use wood glue and dust to make filler – it always dries more yellow that you think – unsightly!
Robin, on a floor you will likely need something a bit stronger to stand up to the traffic. You make all seven products sound easy and effective, but I’m leaning toward the $5 Elmer’s Wood Filler for this, unless you think Kwikwood’s a better way to go. Slivering” quickly and easily fills those unsightly gaps in between wooden boards with wedges of old reclaimed floorboard. It is a bit of a fiddle to install if the gaps aren’t uniform width, but it works well and you really only see it if you know to look for it. It gives the floor a neat finish too. When using a clear finish, I save sanding or saw dust of each species if wood in the project in marked, old pill bottles.
I believe that you may actually risk buckling if you fill in wide gaps now – when the boards snap back to their full width in summer, if they have nowhere to go they may pop away from the subfloor. In small sections where the sawdust/glue mixture has loosened, I used Bondo (the wood filler, not the all purpose putty <- can't stain this one) to fill the gap. There are a number of methods that are commonly used by Wood Floor Restoration Professionals for the filling of unsightly gaps in wooden flooring. This is the least costly method, but also the least effective on larger gaps since it can easily crack and fall out over time. We would recommend you do not use below 80 grit sanding dust as it would just be too coarse and would more likely have a rough appearance when it has dried in the Gaps in the Floor. Apart from destroying the patina, the surface can be destabilised - for example wood-boring beetle larvae may have been busy tunnelling below the surface and if you take off the top layer the unsightly, worm-ridden wood will be on view. Nicole, if it's a larger piece you may be better off with a Real wood patch, but for areas smaller than a half dollar I'd use the WoodEpox. You want the epoxy to stick to the wood and not the barrel, so remove any soot or oil in the barrel channel with a rasp or scraper. I plan to sand and re stain after filling the recessed nails but don't want to end up with a bunch of unsightly dots that don't match the stain color. If you are not sanding and refinishing the wood at this time you will have to keep the wood clean from filler, by wiping the wood with a wet then dry rag. Eventually, old caulk loses its elasticity and cracks when wood expands and contracts. I am about to paint an exterior of a very large house with lots of rough sawn wood trim, 50 gallons of paint worth. Another popular method for filling those unsightly gaps in your wooden floor is to use acrylic mastic filler, which can usually be picked up in any hardware store in London. Once stain and sealant is applied to the wood project, you'll have a tough time seeing any joinery blemishes at all. Now the cedar chest lid broke apart inbetween pieces of wood where the lid arm goes. To put this in perspective I will be selling the house in about six months and need to repair the floor for showing the house. The range covers both interior and exterior applications as well as wood finishes and specialised surfaces. The absolute best for staying bonded to the wood is the Abatron products though. It is possible to give your Parquet Block Floors or Hardwood Flooring or Pine Floorboards a much more attractive overall look if all the major Gaps are filled. StopGap is great for any gaps between 1mm and 8mm, not just sealing your floorboards. Unfortunately, you don't know what the final color of the wood will be where the crack is until you wet out the fiberglass.