Probably, but it would be difficult to produce exact 90Â° angle cuts or to get consistent results. Even if you manage to drill straight, the single cutter would invite your drill to revolve around the cutting point instead of around the drill soon as the cutter is buried in the wood, this behaviour will be counteracted by the guiding forces of the outer rim in the wood, but it would be somewhat of a miracle if you were to cut a perfect circular piece from the top.
These plug cutters work well but like any tool you have to use them a drill press at lower speeds,dont force the bit and you will get good results and a longer lasting bit.After 25 or 30 plugs mine still get the job you run a cabinet shop these are not going to last as long as the big brands but for the price you can keep 10 sets of these around for the cost of one set of theirs.
Some comments, the plug cutter is practically new, I’ve tried about 20 oak plugs and about 20 sapelle plugs. First,still in the press,touch the slowly spinning cutter LIGHTLY onto an unused(you’ll make a divot)flat section of a sharpening stone. I’m conservative here – better to leave some extra for the next step than have to repair a plug that breaks off below the wood surface. Let the glue dry completely, then saw off most of the excess plug with a dovetail or similar saw.
Stick the screwdriver down in the cut and lever it against the plug along the grain. You center the scrap hole template over your existing hole, insert the bit into the hole, and then start the drill above where you want to drill it. If you can do it steadily enough, you’ll have a rounded out hole that’s exactly the right size for the plug you’ll cut.
Step 7: Trim off the wood plugs until they’re nearly flush with the surrounding wood. IMHO as long as the base of the plug has enough surface area to accommodate glue, and the exposed portion is sufficient to sand smooth, you’ve got the correct length. Then, slip the counterbore collar onto the bit and fasten it in place about 1/4 inch above the tapered countersink cutters (see Photo 2).
That might have been due to the plug cutter, runout in my drill press, the size of the drill use used for the hole, or the fact that I had to drill the holes with a handheld drill. Consider the plugs that you’ve cut successfully as a hard-earned proof of your perseverance and either get a plug cutter with more cutting edges ( Lee Valley / Veritas has some nice ones ) or invest in a simple drill press. Counterboring” involves driving the bit further into the wood to set the screw head about 1/4 inch below the wood surface and create a hollow for the wood plug.
Use a small fine file and count the strokes it takes to get the worst cutter down to sharp, then take the same number of strokes on each of the remaining cutters. Set your drill press to medium speed, and feed the plug cutter into the wood with slow, steady pressure (see Photo 4). Stop cutting each plug when the cutter bottoms out in the wood. The smooth-shank variety will invariably slip in your drill chuck sooner or later, especially when you’re drilling counterbores in tough wood. But for decorative work the grain of the plug should be lined up with the grain of the wood being plugged.
BEST ANSWER: you need a separate cutter for each diameter you would like to cut. I’m probably not going to shell out for a drill press for a few dozen plugs – that would make them about the most expensive plugs in the known world. Those 4 pronged cutters are hard to sharpen well, it’s very easy to wind up with 4 legs of different lengths. I sharpen my cutters frequently and once touched up on the belt they cut fast and clean. It’s tough, and the plug cutter runs all over the place making for not-so-great results.
The type of plug you use and how you install it can make a big difference in how it looks. As mentioned by william Guevere, they are c. I set my drill press at a speed under 1250, got about 1/16 of an inch into the soft maple before it started smoking. I haven’t tried this yet, but it seems appealing, and is geared toward those of us who do not own a drill press. I need one that will cut a 2 inch thick plug with a diameter of 2 and 1/8 inches.
I try to make sure my screws are sunk between 1/4 and 3/8-inch below the surface to allow the plug to seat well. These plug cutters saw heavy use for all our projects in both soft and hardwoods and lasted for months without having to be sharpened or replaced. Then I set the fence on the bandsaw and saw along that eighth line and the plugs just fall out benignly onto the saw table. Plug cutters are cheap, last forever (as far as I can tell), and provide you with an essentially free source of plugs that match your project wood exactly, because it IS your project wood.