Coverage: For hardwood species we recommend 2 coats of Waterlox Original Sealer/Finish followed by 1 coat of Waterlox Original Satin Finish. A compromise that allows you to protect your floors while still appreciating the texture of the wood itself: a tung-oil blend called Waterlox. It seems pretty easy create micro-scratches in the finish that show up if the light rakes it just right. The completed finish is virtually solvent free, and is comprised of 98 percent natural compounds. Now that I’m thinking about it more, Arm-R-Seal is meant to be a top coat but it also needs to penetrate into the wood. The oil penetrating into the wood makes the surface resistant to water, heat and stain damage.
But once you do the big, original floor refinish with Waterlox (with the big drum sander that gets all of the current finish off and gets right down to bare wood), it’s relatively quick and easy to give those floors a refreshed look with a bit of sanding and new coats of Waterlox as needed. Since I wasn’t doing a very large area, I was able to just buy the small sample size to do this last coat which was a plus since Waterlox isn’t cheap!
The doors are Spanish Cedar and we can’t get over how beautiful the Waterlox is on the doors. Prior to applying the waterlox we sanded the counter the sequence up to 320, it was super super smooth. So after a lot of research into other options, I ended up going with Waterlox and I’m so glad I did – I love it! If you shake or mix the Waterlox, it will be much more prone to skinning in the can, and it can cause finish problems from micro-bubbles. This second choice is easier said than done if you’re an occasional or amateur wood finisher without spray equipment — if not, look to a pre-cat lacquer or conversion varnish. It is water based, and forms a much harder finish than traditional polyurethanes.
I have no problem reapplying a finish every year, but want to use the best product to showcase the wood and keep it that way. This finish can be reapplied by the home owner or you may prefer to have it done by a professional. I guess I will give the Waterlox Marine Finish a go. I am going to check on its UV content. We have come across quite a few custom countertop companies over the years that use the Waterlox as their original finish. Waterlox gives hardwood floors a hand rubbed look that is both durable and elegant.
I was so excited to see your review of Waterlox….We are getting ready to put down wood floors & was thinking of using this product. What I am wanting is a finish that replicates that wet” look that the BLO provided, something that will allow plenty of light to really show off the grain and colors of the finish. Varnish (thinned or Wipe-on) among which are Waterlox products, Farmby’s, Hopes, Daly’s, jasco, Gillespie, Zar, Varathane…Also, no idea where to get most of these in Canada.
The result is a finish exhibiting the characteristics of a well-preserved antique, a finish character that serves our trademark. The finish is inherently flexible and moves with the instrument, not against it. That means it won’t chip, crack, or cold check. EcoTimber , a reputable manufacturer located in California, offers engineered and solid wood floors finished with UV-cured acrylic urethane with a scratch-resistant topcoat.
We have used various finishes over the years for wood care projects for our clients. Due to a mismeasure, the counter is having to be remade and now I have the opportunity to finish the new counter with something different and am looking for recommendations. Another Waterlox feature is that it can be tinted with up to one quart of old-fashioned, solvent-based stain (without additives such as urethane,or solvents like alcohol) per gallon. Every project will have it’s own circumstances to consider when selecting your finish. Since this finish is a surface film, when the film is breached, it offers no protection at all.
All of the above systems will produce a beautiful finish and lasting protection with easy maintenance and recoatability. The topside has the original finish which I didn’t want to disturb, so I flipped the board over, sanded the underside and keep it oiled it with mineral oil. Two coats Waterlox sealer and one coat Waterlox marine finish, brushed on boards previously sealed with several coats of linseed oil as a sealer and preservative. In conclusion, for our reclaimed wood countertops and tabletops, we recommend Rubio Monocoat, Waterlox Tung Oil, and in some isolated cases, thick epoxy.
First, the wood tabletops and countertops that Antique Woodworks creates are not butcher block or other cutting surfaces. Hopefully you have a gel stain in your shop that will work for this test, just to gauge it. In the end, that gel will put a kiss of brown on top of the sealer without killing the figure or contrast in the wood. I am not familiar with the Waterlox Marine finish but I would assume that it has good UV protection. I have read this thread multiple times, and each time I convince myself of a different method of finish. The initial finish product looks very nice, as good or better than most other finishes.
While Waterlox Original Tung oil finishes contain a superior drying oil, namely Tung Oil, they are fully cooked varnishes, which dry quicker and form permanent films tough enough to walk on and take daily abuse. In contrast to these thick film finishes, Waterlox penetrates deep into the pores of the wood producing a rich hand rubbed patina that enhances the grain and the natural beauty of the wood. Reapplying this finish is as simple as wiping it on, letting it set, and wiping it off again.