Wood sauceboat Restoration series Complete twenty magnetic stanley scraper plane disc gear up astir useable Here. There isn’t much clearance between the parts of the tilting mechanism; the tote is presently 7/8 inch above its original position, but that turns out to be an advantage because the plane needs more down force than a smoother to cut consistently, and the higher position of one’s grip on the raised tote (which is a full-size No.4 tote) naturally accomplishes that end.
They work like extremely high-bevel plane irons, taking very fine shavings from the piece you are working on. What they create is known as a type III chip This chip formation dealio was laid out shortly after World War II by a guy named Dr. Normal Franz to study the effects of cutting in industrial manufacturing Scraping is a great way to get your project to an ultra-smooth surface – especially on highly figured wood.
Pictured at right and above is the leading view of the scraper and the bar which holds the blade in place. If your first attempts at scraper sharpening aren’t that successful, don’t get discouraged. I have found the plane to be robust, easy to adjust, comfortable to use and ultimately effective against tearing. I went at it in both directions (left and right), pushing the scraper away from me each time.
We are fed up of seeing people believe it is their fault that they cannot plane or chisel or scribe when it is the manufacturer at fault. Yet for over 30 years I’ve managed to get by with just a cheap Stanley 80 scraper. This section is divided into STANLEY PLANES, OTHER BRANDS, BLOCK PLANES, SCRAPER PLANES, and COMBINATION PLANES. The scraper plane is supplied with a 2 7/8” wide, thin carbon steel blade with a 45° bevel and an option on a 1/8” thick A2 steel alternative. Honing is pretty straight forward and those who can do a nice plane blade will have no problems.
However, the pivots of the frog are much higher up on the cheeks, allowing the addition of a rabbet mouth, which is found only in the rare No.85 Stanley scraper plane. I’ll also show you how to sharpen and set up a scraper plane (Stanley 81 type) and you’ll find out why a Stanley 82 needs to be in your scraping arsenal. A tilting tote allows the No.4 scraper to be used as a shooting board scraper or for scraping against vertical members without scraping one’s knuckles, too !
Of course, this form of scraper is also much easier on your forms, so if you combine the plane for hogging and the scraper for finishing in this way, you can get tremendous service from your forms, without maintenance/attendance. There is always a small chance of a lift when using a plane and at that stage of the game you have nothing left to work with to try to salvage the strip if you’re wanting absolute flawless work. Today I started surfacing all the parts and found that the grain was too wild for even a freshly sharpened 62°-pitch plane with a tight mouth.
Setting the blade in the cabinet scraper is a simple matter of placing the tool on a flat surface, backing off the thumbscrew at the rear, slipping the blade in ‘til it touches the work surface, bevel facing backwards, and then tightening up the clamp screws (by hand seemed sufficient). I took an junk Stanley #2 , removed the frog and installed a piece of scrap iron found in a junk pile to where the frog had been attached A hole was drilled to receive the adjustment rod This prototype had two first in my toolmaking journey. First, turn the burr back by using the burnisher on the back of the scraper blade. Finally you can, later on, add a smoothing plane such as a Number 4 or 4 1/2 plane.
The Lie Neilson 112 large scraper plane is a very nice tool, however it is possible to mange without it as I have over 30 years. The scraper plane is a super tool; the blade bow option gives it a real edge over the L-N, but still with the thicker blade available if you prefer. It’s interesting to see two slightly different design approaches to the same basic plane design; the L-V using the blade bowing technique of hand scrapers, while the L-N uses a massive blade. To renew the hook, just lay the scraper flat on the bench, and use the burnisher to push the remains of the hook back flat.
The result is a primary bevel that is large (over 1.68 square inches) compared to primary bevels on plane irons (0.47 square inches), chisels, normal knives. As I posted, I use the scraper like a windshield wiper, back and forth letting the razor flip back and forth between my fingers. Just search for info on the Stanley no. 80. I also bought the Hock replacement iron although I’m not sure that is needed if the original iron is okay. These are handled lengths of steel harder than the steel in the scraper blade and when you run them along the edge, they compress the scraper’s steel forming it into the required shape.
As far as the 12-1/4, 12-1/2, and the 12-3/4 they are no different mechanically than the 12. The 12-1/4 being slightly smaller. I can’t compare it to the original Stanley, but I like mine so much that I sold my LV scraper plane. The scraper plane is a little more complicated because the blade angle can be adjusted from vertical to 25°, but the instructions take you step-by-step. But, in my opinion, they’re a darn sight better than the big-headed screws that Stanley used on later models of the 80. At least you can finger-tighten these with your fingers. The tool of choice isn’t your basic flat, steel rectangle but the Stanley #80 scraper plane.
Keep in mind scrapers aren’t used these days by 99% of cabinet makers today because the expectations of the finished product aren’t the same as they once were when every cabinet maker had a scraper in his tool box. Whenever I’ve flushed out an edgebanding but have a little more to remove, I grab my scraper. Step 6 – I gave the blade, the plane body and all other components a coat of paste floor wax to protect them from rust, and I put white lithium grease on all the thumb screw threads.
The cutter width is 2-3/8 inch, placing it between the No.112 (2-7/8 inch) and No.212 (1-3/8 inch). But I, like Wayne (heck, upon Wayne’s advice) just sharpen my 212 blade to 38 degrees. I can’t justify in my mind the cost of a #112 scraper plane, so I don’t have any. I have a LN212 that I got from a very well known rodmaker, it was tuned as he would use it. I could never master the scraper.
My take on the subject is that the 65° angle on the LN 212 is fine for our purposes. I too purchased a 212 when I was tooling up. My second mistake was using it. It doesn’t look new anymore. The cabinet scraper has one or two improvements over the Stanley, but whether enough to justify the price difference will really come down to the individual. To just look with a critical eye at a blank made using only a plane but done right you wont see a problem at all.
When starting out you don’t need a bull nose plane or many other of the ‘specialist’ planes, but you might consider buying a very small shoulder plane, the Lie Neilson 1/2 shoulder plane is a very popular choice. I’ve had my share of problems with card scrapers but the properly prepared no. 80 was great once I prepared it properly. The frog was made from aluminum angle stock bent to set the blade at roughly 80 degrees. As with plane irons and chisels, the grinding step shapes the knife back from the edge. I have found an old, dull pocket knife burnished into a scraper to be very usefull, and for larger areas, a paint scraper can be modified to a scraper and is very effective.
We tried thicker irons but came to the conclusion that the Stanley engineers back in the day had got it absolutely spot on. My experience has been that the plane neatly cuts the bamboo while a scraper, well, scrapes. Problem is since posting this article, it’s hard to purchase one of these older mint condition No 80 planes on e-bay for anything less than $50.00. See what you started!
All I have is the #12 veneer cabinet scraper, a #80 cabinet scraper, and various card scrapers. May we recommend our supple leather scraper wallet, complete with press stud fastening, belt loop and pockets for four scrapers. The final step in sharpening the #80 scraper requires you to bend the burr over the other way – away from the bevel. I also discovered the plane took a lot more force to drive forward than I was expecting. I have 2 Records and one modern Stanley, and the Stanley is pretty much rubbish.
I have not seen these first hand and I am not a great fan of the Stanley and Record type of spokeshave that they are based upon but with a heavier blade and a close mouth they may work well. They also made scraper planes – same scraper blade but the body looks more like a bench plane body. The current Stanley model has a thumb-screw facing the user & 2 slotted, knurled nuts on the other side. You do not usually think of a beader or scratch stock as a scraper but the cutter is a small scraper blade usually profiled or shaped for a special beading or inlay function.
I had most desirable results with Stanley hand scrapers (plates) sharpened down to approximately 30 degrees and burnished with a 4340 chrome alloy 3/8 rod. Leonard Bailey’s vertical post design led to the design of the modern bench plane. The facts that the #12 series is the most common of the cabinet scrapers Stanley produced and that the series contains the largest number of different models within their cabinet scraper category. These are very inexpensive but are largely being replaced by the more expensive scraper planes.
Mostly I try to use my smoothing plane to get the wood surface good as possible, the clean up with the card scraper. You can get micro curls with a plane but because a plane lifts at a more acute angle to make the cut you can’t prevent slight, very slight lifting which is most apparent at the enamel. I had to go blow the dust off the two stanleys, as I never use the #81, and seldom use the #12.
These have the advantage of having, again, the choice of A2 or 01 blades and a rather nice adjustment mechanism to the blade and a more comfortable plane body. Does someone…anyone…have some other proof to show me the only difference between a #12 and #112 is the arrangement of how the unit is held in your hands. You can resharpen a scraper edge several times before having to file a new edge. You can push or pull the scraper, depending on how comfortable you are with it. Just keep the thumbscrew on the back side of the scraper as you work and you’ll be golden. Look at the smoother plane behind it and notice this has a slightly higher pitch at approximately 50 degrees.