I picked this pocket hole jig up at Home Depot because I had a couple gift cards burning a hole in my pocket. For best results, use only square drive screws that are made specifically for pocket holes. I have a zig zag option on my sewing machine, but it is about a centimeter wide, shorter than the hole I am trying to fix. Standard wood screws may work, but you are forced between trying to center a pilot hole at the bottom of your pocket or risk splitting the piece you’re screwing into.
Trevor Green is an amateur woodworker in Southern California—and from the looks of this machine I’d say he’s good at his craft. I have found that ordinary screws work perfectly fine, yes they may pull out but pocket holes with the branded screws will pull out at some point anyway, Neat build im subbed to your channel on youtube now ! With a good quality, Kreg type, pocket hole screw, you will not need an additional pilot hole in the board that you are joining to, even in hardwoods like oak. This is an extremely simple jig build but it does take a bit of time to make sure everything lines up right.
If your joints are pulling apart when you assemble, it means that the pilot hole is not large enough and the screw is threading inside of it. Get a bit with a larger pilot or use screws with smaller threads and it will solve that. I built the side frames first and attached them using Gorilla Wood Glue and 1.25″ pocket holes screws. The box has an alignment guide on it so you can set up for depth of materials easily too. But it is true from what iv tried is that the head is not fully enter to the pocket hole, I guess that is what you meant. For about half the price but the Kreg Face Clamp has larger pads which will minimize the risk of putting dents in the wood.
This easy to use jig that comes in many packages is extremely easy to use and has led to a proliferation of articles and videos on pocket-hole joinery. So you pay $4.50 each, for a couple toggle clamps and $7 shipping to you to make your own version of Rockler’s pocket hole clamp. The trouble with using material thinner than 12mm (1/2″) is that there’s not enough material for the pocket to be formed in without the screw head sticking out. Once your boards are cut you can drill holes using your Kreg jig in a cool pattern of your choice. When you post your question at the Forum, be sure to include references to the Knowledge Base article that inspired your question.
In the video above, Gene Lonergan turns an older pocket hole jig (K3) into a manually operated pocket hole machine”. The concept behind this build was to make a machine that you could bring to the work instead of bringing the work to the machine (industrial settings use large stationary pocket hole machines that sometimes have a queue of workers waiting to use it). And here’s the kicker… you have two toggle clamps you can use for any other homemade jig.
It slides onto the bottom of the jig (once you remove it from the stand/clamp) and the additional add-ons interlock. Drill two pocket holes at each end of the upper and middle rails, as shown, and three at each end of the wider bottom rail. Pocket screw joinery is the best option for the do-it-yourselfer because pocket screws create very strong joints and don’t require you to have a lot of special or expensive tools that you won’t use frequently. Whenever I make a joint, I try if at all possible to add a clamp which squeezes the two parts together.
Join us on Instagram and Pinterest to keep up with our most recent projects and sneak peeks! So if you want to build things but don’t feel like spending money on a Kreg Jig (they are expensive), there is a simple process to making pocket holes. I used my Kreg Jig to drill 3/4″ pocket holes and glued and attached all of the pieces with 1 1/4″ pocket screws.
Because the drill guide is stationary and the work piece gets clamped to the dril guide you don’t get a small point of pressure from the clamp on the plastic drill guide. The clamp makes things so much faster and easier to use, this was such a good deal after looking at the blue Plastic ones without the clamp! The jig itself seems to be constructed pretty well, nice and straight without sharp mold marks etc.
This will help hold the pieces in place while inserting and driving 1¼-inch pocket screws through the pocket holes and into the adjoining side. Then every example shown is a pocket screwed butt join with no glue or supporting rebates (or even supporting blocks). I say carefully, because the X wasn’t attached to anything yet, so it just slid down when I flipped the base. First, you’ll need a 3/8″ pocket hole drill If I recall correctly, I didn’t buy the Kreg brand drill.
Disclaimer: We were not paid to endorse the Kreg Jig Jr. This tool however, was given to us by the Kreg Tool Company while attending a conference. Note: Instead of using the screws that came with the jig, pick up some good quality, square-drive, pocket hole screws, from your local big-box hardware store. You can use a cam clamp (tutorial on making those someday), quick grip, C-clamp as shown here, or get a friend to hold the jig real tight while… No, actually don’t do that. You do have the option to dab some glue between the joints, however, without requiring a clamp to hold it in place.
I know contributor A is just giving his advice, but don’t be discouraged by it. I’ve used Kreg and Ritter (they both drill the same hole) for over 10 years, and if clamped correctly, you won’t have any offset of the joint. I was first introduced to the Kreg Jig by my friends Ana White and Rayan with The Design Confidential These two DIY ladies opened my eyes to pocket screw joints. If you’re going to be doing pocket hole joinery all day making decent money from it, I will say right now, it would be stupid not to just buy the Rocklers. Clamps aren’t cheap and even small projects wind up needing more clamps than I have.