Wood finishing expert Bruce Johnson shares basic wood staining tips and offers advice on how to stain some of the more popular wood species. A previously stained or varnished surface may have to be stripped before re- finishing. Wood surrounds students as they learn various trade techniques for working with wood products and within wooden structures. After you arrive at the desired degree of sealing and number of stain coats, apply the final clear finish to see how it looks. Putting a clear coat over the finish probably will result in making the streaking more obvious. Nice product goes on well you have to be careful not to put to much on your brush but it has a nice finish that looks great. Pine accepts clear finishes like varnish or polyurethane much like any other wood.
And on the first board, you can see what the wood looks like with a coat of wax on it. This is wainscoting that runs about two floors of the house, so I’m looking for a way that would be time efficient. The finish has to be sufficiently tough to withstand daily scrubbing, and must be continuously renewed whenever it gets too thin. I have a transition oak doorway that had some sort of inhibitor put on exactly half of the wood due to a door.
Now although amber shellac is a finish and forms a film on the wood, I’ll rarely use it without a harder topcoat. The entire finish can be renewed periodically by rubbing in an additional coat. So many choices that an average person could be quite confused in making a decision of which to use and how to apply a finish on a woodworking project. Applying water this generously makes the surface of the wood expand, so to keep everything true I apply stain to all surfaces, inside and out, so the wood stays in balance.
If you skimp on sanding, stains will blotch on pine – you will get highly-stained patches that are not visually related to the grain pattern. Polyurethane is an extremely durable finish that is resistant to both water and alcohol. Using stains and finishes that are advertised as compatible (like our products) is the most foolproof way to avoid solvent interference. Yes, our colour swatches show this stain on pine but it can be used on any wood.
Excess glue on the surface of the wood must either be flushed and washed away with clean water while it is still wet, or allowed to dry and cut away with a sharp chisel or knife – any remaining spots or smears must be completely sanded away. Generally speaking, oil-based stains will not cure if they can’t absorb into the wood. Now have a complete mess and the clear varnish has highlighted dark and light patches.
Then I’d like to compare it to other methods, such as using wood conditioner on pine before stain (which I’ve never tried). Resene Colorwood Reducing Base is also perfect on dark timbers to enhance the grain and appearance of the timber, without making the timber appear even darker. Pine wood lacks tannin content, but tannin occurs in tea, and the steel wool and vinegar will react with the tea stain and darken the wood. An electric sander will save time—and muscle—as you prepare the larger portions of your furniture.
Look for clear grains whenever possible, and make certain that the wood acclimates on site, is properly sealed, and is thoroughly protected upon installation. I had filled the nail holes stainable wood filler” and thought that I had sanded all the excess away so that it was down to wood except in the nail holes. Pigment Stains add colour without hiding the grain – they’re available in a range of decorator colours as well as timber tones. Stains applied to light timber (or composite boards notably plywood) will appear much stronger and brighter in colour than stains applied to dark wood. There are choices, it is part of the furniture painter skill to specify the right paint for the job.
I have been working on the walls, floors and just about anything else I can do before staining because I was concerned that the doors would stain the way i wanted them to. I was right, they look really uneven some parts don’t even show grain. They can be very absorbent, taking up the Resene Colorwood stain too quickly and making it hard to apply and achieve an even finish.
Typically this is a dilute lacquer solution with color that can be applied heavy in the light areas and light in the dark areas. In the next 10-20 years, as the beetle-affected timber no longer becomes salvageable, the province’s overall supply of mature timber in the Interior is expected to decrease by about 20%, when compared to harvest levels before the mountain pine beetle epidemic. Simply renew the finish often enough that the surface stays perfectly sealed – a once-a-month rub with an oil-soaked cloth is about right, with overnight to dry. Whitewood or pine is relatively soft, so it’s easy to leave some dents with just a few light bangs.
As a range, they are genuinely a superlative all-round brush for everyone into painting – suitable for highest quality kitchen painting, furniture painting, super fast emulsioning, and they keep on working well in oil based eggshell, gloss… in chalk paint they are a 9/10. It’s a tricky job, but the point is only gel type stains will prevent the pine from becoming blotchy. The sealer will make the wood less absorbent and the color will be lighter than indicated on the can.
Botching happens when areas of varying wood density absorb liquid stain differently, resulting in an unevenly stained surface that detracts from the natural beauty of the grain. Cover enough floor area around your project to easily walk around it. Be mindful of the bottom of your shoes – don’t walk through drips and then track onto finished flooring. Water will warp wood, but you should only be coating the wood with the solution not submerging it/soaking it completely. I don’t use poly for anything but floors so I would go with a wipe on varnish like Waterlox original or Behlen’s Rockhard.
We usually recommend one of our trade water based Wood Stains for Wooden Floors as they are safe to use, low odour and compatable with most finishes. Pigments alone do not provide much in the way of abrasion or solvent resistance, so most people add two or three layers of some clear, protective finish over stain. A conditioner will go a long way toward eliminating the blotches and uneven color you may otherwise see when staining pine You can condition the pine in a couple of ways. Your decision about which finish to use will depend on your confidence level and the piece you’re finishing.
The stain will make the wood beautiful, but the top coat will make it last and easy to wipe clean. I don’t mean the coating of paint and lacqer, but having to sand down a spruce or mahogony finish due to 60 years of pick abuse and heavy lacquer cracking. Dark stains applied to a dark timber may also cause a darker result than anticipated. Most softwoods, such as pine and fir, have an irregular pore structure, especially around knots and natural blemishes. Now you could always cover up the top using tinted lacquer (toner), which lets some of the wood grain show through but covers most of it up. Careful application of toner could possibly hide bad spots.
A hand rubbed lacquer finish has a deep, soft gloss and does not have the plastic appearance of many polyurethanes. The nature of the wood species and how porous it is. Different species of wood absorb stain differently. So if you are really looking for a good long-term fix, my recommendation would indeed be to sand it down to bare wood and start with the seal coat of shellac. Without a washcoat, the bands of softer spring wood will absorb more stain, enhancing the contrast on the finished wood surface.
The shellac will seal the wood just enough to keep the stain from penetrating deeply. Heat-treating (‘polymerizing’) tung oil solves all these problems – the final finish is almost as tough as urethane, dries almost as fast, bonds better and polishes better. So I tried some Zinsser Seal Coat on a sample board, stained it with the Walnut, and although it looked a little lighter than the original without the sealer, it was much more even. I’ve stained many types of wood and I would recommend going with a harder wood.
I agree that pine (and other paint-grade woods like poplar) can be tricky to colour without covering the grain pattern, but it’s possible. The random little spots running in a line vertically are test distressing marks I applied, to see how they would turn out when stained. Once those are gone, apply a gel stain or equalize the wood density with a washcoat.
Knot-free pine can be difficult to get in longer lengths, though, which can make a project more labor-intensive and costly. Always do a sample first to ensure you love the stain color on your wood – wood can vary even in the same species. The better news: it was pretty easy to do. It was sort of a one-two punch of distressing wood + staining it that really did the trick. Our water based products, Milk Paints, Water Based Wood Stains and Topcoats can be inter-mixed to create custom colors.
Remove the last of any unabsorbed stain with a dry cloth wiped only in the direction of the grain of the wood. The professional way to stain a floor is to sand first leaving your floor silky and smooth, then use a stain or even several stains mixed together and diluted. After applying the stain, let it dry for at 24 hours before applying the final finish. Soft woods such as pine and alder: start with #120 and finish with no finer than #220 (for water base stains) and 180 grit for oil base stains.
The method uses a mixture of sodium hydroxide and water to forcibly age the wood. Pine is a pretty soft wood, so to me it makes sense to use a pretty hard finish for the best protection. I would imagine a good swipe with your fingernail and the finish will come off. Sand bare or stripped wood lightly with #150, #180 or #220-grit sandpaper to open the pores in preparation for staining. Gave a nice even colouring to the mixed plywood and pine desk I built, leaving the grain visible. Established over 20 years our background in timber technology, fine furniture & polishing ensures you get the very best advice.