# Redo Carpet Or Install Stair Treads For Stairs?

ASTM A 615 – Standard Specification for Deformed and Plain Carbon-Steel Bars for Concrete Reinforcement. Yes, your carpet does appear to be worn and stained so that would be a turnoff. The alternative would have been one full plank and a small piece to cover the tread. I am a professional stair runner fitter and that tutorial you have given is spot on If you ever want a job come to us! Before we could start drilling, it was time to install the new treads and risers!

It wasn’t an option to tear out the finish walls to get to the closed end of the risers and treads where they butted the wall. For example, the stairs shown in this article were built of lumber and covered with carpet. Figure 1. After making preliminary calculations to find the location of the base of the stairs, the author pours concrete for the landing. For example, a total estimated rise of 52 1/2 inches divided by 7 3/4 inches equals 6.77, which rounds up to seven risers.

Need standard treads if your staircase is closed or boxed in. Standard is also term milled ends, or installed into a straight box or closed staircase (no edges are seen). When he installed the new bottom two stairs, he also routed the front edges of the 2×12 on the top and bottom, so that the nose of the stair tread had a more pleasing and looked more finished and less like a 2×12! Repeat the process with the rest of the stair treads, making sure that they are all spaced the same.

When I cut the tread I cut past the intersecting point of the riser to where the nosing starts it’s radius. Others have only tried to copy what we do. We started with the design and still install EZTREAD. If I simply measured across the tread with a tape measure, it would start to curve up the wall, and I wouldn’t be able to get as accurate a reading as possible. Then I will take 2 short 1×4 and butt them them against each side of the tread against the stringer and run two short screws into the long board. Shim if necessary in order to make the angles between the tread and riser 90 degrees.

For the actual structure of the bottom stairs we reused any 2×4’s and 2×6’s that we already head. I wimped out and just stained the plywood that they put on the stairs, because our stairs aren’t like yours…they put a curve in them. Stair treads are installed starting at the bottom step, so that will be step one. If you encounter a dovetailed baluster, you will either have to cut the wood baluster flush with the tread or remove the mitered end of the tread and knock the baluster out from the side. It can be either treads butted to the riser or the riser sitting on top of the stair tread.

If you are taking on the task yourself to install new stairs and railings there are many online resources which will help guide you along the right path. Contact or rubber flooring adhesive can work for rubber stair treads, depending on the amount of traffic the staircase is expected to withstand. Don’t glue all the way to the front edge as this is where the stair nose will be attached with a different type of glue. Use a hand roller over the recently installed stair treads to get a tight fit and to remove any existing air bubbles. It’s a split level house with an entry way that splits to a top and bottom set of stairs.

Standard finished ends are treads revealing the end of the hardwood rounded over in the same manner as the front part of the tread. Use paper, pencil, level, framing square and tape measure to calculate a stairway run, the horizontal depth of the steps. The width of the opening that the stairs fits into is the width of the stairs plus the thickness of the finished wall material on both sides of the opening. I thought about doing the same thing in my house but was intimated by adding new treads. I also nail into the stair nose three or four nails across, not too close to the edges.

When treads are installed in a staircase, there is customarily a wedge-shaped mortise or slot” cut into the stringers to hold the treads where they belong. I also avoid running the pencil lines long at the inside corner where tread meets riser to ward off the tendency to follow the line to the bitter end when making saw cuts. Fill in the area in front of the first stair riser with a small amount of wall rock.

Remember that the top of the stringer has been dropped the thickness of a tread so hold it down accordingly. Leave the glue to cure according to the manufacturer’s directions and avoid walking on the stairs until then. Fashioned from steel, stainless steel, aluminum or galvanized steel, non-slip stair treads will increase safety and decrease the risk of slip and fall accidents on stairways. One of the biggest slowdowns during this project was waiting for the stair treads and risers to be installed so I could paint and Varathane them.

Most often, in new construction, the site-built stairs I’ve seen have skirt boards installed with the treads and risers butting into the skirt. A deck stairway is comprised of one or more pair of diagonal stringers or supports and numerous horizontal treads or steps. It makes the line of sight into the joints more forgiving then staring straight at you when you walk up the stairs. Once the tread is cut to fit, any voids or variances underneath can cause squeaking. Cut the tread at the scored line with a circular saw fitted with a fine-tooth blade.

I’d rather make the weakest point be the actual nose of the tread (the nose would break off) rather than risk the entire stair coming up. At some point, no matter how well you install the stair, if you put enough weight on the front edge of the nose, something is going to give out. Here, the dotted line indicates the full riser height as the author marks the cut line 1 1/2 inches shorter to account for the 2×12 tread stock. If levelling or packing is required see the details under S Series Treads and Inserts. The structural framework of your stairs is made entirely out of construction material.

It is possible in some situations to plug the holes with wood tapered face plugs and then sand them flush with the existing surface. Standard tread depth is 11-1/2 inches, and a variety of widths are available to meet your specifications. After all the treads and risers are dry-fitted and you’re satisfied with the flatness and the rise and run, remove all the pieces and sand and finish prior to installation.

Whenever possible each tread and riser should be jointed together, glued, nailed and blocked at the bench separately, and the glue allowed to set before the stairs are put together. Tip: If, your risers have a damaged surface and you are planning to paint it. An inexpensive fix to your hardwood stair treads, is to give it a face lift, by cutting an 1/8 piece plywood and installing it to fit over your riser, then paint it.

But be aware, many online videos and guides on stair treads and railing installation fall well short of our standards. When gluing your treads down, you can also help prevent cupping and increase adhesion to the substrate by adding a kerf cut along the underside of your treads. I used a little craft paper leftover from a remodel (the kind on the large roll you cover floors with) and cut a piece a little larger than the tread.

Custom fit everything to size, then take it all off-site and prefinish stair treads before installation. Use non-slip stair treads to keep you, your guests, and your stair surfaces safe! This meant that I could rip 1/2 inch off the inside of the end pieces to make the tread fit over the skirt boards. This would have left too much tread hanging over the front of the risers for safety. This will allow you to leave a couple inches of the actual stair showing on each side. With the landing elevation pinpointed, I measure the total stair rise from the landing finish level to the top of the decking.

Neither the IRC nor the DCA 6 provides much in the way of design guidelines for when joists or beams support point loads such as a stair. If the carpet isn’t bound on the sides, you can score the back with a utility knife and fold the sides over. A significant advantage of our rubber stair covering is that they can be placed on any set of stairs, regardless whether it is indoors or outdoors, residential or commercial. From the base stair riser location mark the remainder of the stair risers and remove the soil to meet the base material requirements.

You will need to cut away the overhang from each rough construction stair step so it is flush with the riser backing below it. Use a jigsaw or sabresaw to cut all the way to the wall on each end. Finish nail this piece to the wall (leave the nail heads and part of the nail shank exposed for easy removal) and mark two registration lines on the wall, on the top of the skirt—one above the bottom tread and one above the top tread. For stair installations in homes that have pets, we recommend either an indoor/outdoor rug or a woven cotton rug, preferably in a pattern—this will help to camouflage everyday dirt, pet prints, and the occasional stain.

Assuming Adhesive is being used it is recommended that underside of the tread be abraded to create a better bond, this can be done with rough sand paper or similar. Start with the bottom riser, then place the tread on top of it. Then the riser, then another tread, and use this pattern until you reach the top. It is too late to repair squeaks or gaps once the treads and risers are installed.