Waterlox Original Is THE BEST Woodworking Finish!

Waterlox Original Satin Finish TB 6044 (formerly TB 6022) for wood floors is a tung oil Finish Coat which provides a Satin Finish when used in conjunction with Waterlox Original Sealer/Finish. I thought about a dark brown stain for everything but I’m hesitant to stain my new redwood fence with any stain that is going to take away from the beautiful natural wood look. For storage of Waterlox products, you can pour any partial cans into smaller container(s), filled to the top, and covered quickly. Stick with the Waterlox, just keep building it up. I have found the satin waterlox to building a little quicker than the original (may just be me). The wood surface can be simply be cleaned and another coat can be applied at anytime.

It’s been 4 years, and I still like the appearance – admittedly, I can’t say one way or the other if it has yellowed much at all, but it sure doesn’t look like it has to me. I chose to do that because it’s a finish that’s very easy to refresh with a new application. Use on interior wood surfaces including floors, windows, doors, cabinetry, woodwork, tables, furniture, bar tops, picture frames, fly fishing rods, gun stocks, and various woodworking projects. I have one waterbased product I like but it is an oil emulsion so it is more oil finish suspended in water than waterbased. For exterior projects, Waterlox Original Sealer/Finish can be used as a sealer.

Waterlox vs. Shellac – Shellac is the standard finish on Early American furniture, providing a penetrating seal and flexible finish that can be polished and refreshed for touch ups or revitalization However shellac is easily damaged by water or alcohol. Durability – Waterlox tung oil finish is the perfect alternative to polyurethane finishes to preserve pine while revealing its gorgeous color and grain pattern. That’s just the way it is. With poly, some of this damage will occur on just the finish layer.

For the most part, the company still makes its hand-made wood finishes the exact same way it did over 100 years ago. I finished my house exterior (cedar barn board and shingle) with Valhalla – LifeTime wood preservative and it’s worked out fine (so far). Essentially, tung oil works by seeping into the wood and hardening, which, on a floor, allows the wood grain itself to take the wear of foot traffic. We will conduct another test beginning about February 2005, using the coating systems that performed the best and adding other promising finish systems.

Honestly, I prefer the lighter look of the oiled countertop to the darker Waterloxed countertop but with all of the other advantages of Waterlox (no more oil spots on stray kitchen papers, no more monthly maintenance, and better water resistance) it was the way to go for us. Several of us at DeVos Custom Woodworking have this finish on our kitchen island tops and countertops.

Because Waterlox cures within the wood, there is not a surface buildup, so the Waterlox surface is less prone to show scratches compared to any conventional oil or water-based polyurethane floor finish. Waterlox finishes are penetrating oil finishes and as such will penetrate into the wood pores and build up to a film that is water resistant, stands up to foot traffic and common household spills. The pic’s of the walnut countertop (excellent work BTW) are a great example of the natural beauty of the finish imparted by Waterlox.

We sealed our homemade wooden countertop with this over a year ago, and so far it has held up beautifully and has protected the wood against any moisture. Just to clarify……I wouldn’t recommend you use raw tung oil (if you can even find it) to finish the floor. The advantage of Poly is that customers would have no maintenance to deal with on their top’s finish until it wears down. All these products except the aliphatic urethane are readily available in retail neighborhood paint or wood finish supply stores.

Since the island in the Underdog will act as our everyday dining table and be the hub of the house, we wanted a finish that would be more like a tabletop. Chalk another one up Bob…I also give my thumbs up for Waterlox as well (the Original is my product of choice). At a 1 to 4 mix, the wood generally will be about 1/2 as dark as the stain applied to bare wood and wiped off.

Here’s how you do it. Preparation is a key factor; sand, or better yet scrape, the wood surface as you normally would before finishing. The Waterlox will truly bring out the beautiful color of the wood and achieves what we’re going for in the beach feel and more relaxed look. For us, I still want wood but we’re probably going to go for thin slab tile (diy) in a dark wood color. The finish will get harder over the years, and should last 10-20 years in light use areas.

This is one of the main reasons I finally settled on Waterlox over every other finish — the ease of repairing scratches in the floor. And a bit of stain was thrown in some of the distressed marks to highlight them prior to Waterlox. We are having wood counter installed, and the company uses waterlox to finish them (there will also be an area with an oil finish that we can use for cutting). I wanted to match the wood tones we had in the kitchen, and I also needed it to stand up to actual kitchen prep work.

Two thin coats serve to seal the piece and raise the grain of the wood as it’s exposed to the solvents in the sealer. Waterlox has a satin finish product and the original product definitely has a sheen which lessens after a few months. Meaning I’m not removing finish between coats, I’m merely rounding over the ridges on the pores and creating a tooth for the next coat. However, the process you describe using Waterlox sounds much easier and just as forgiving.

It is made with pressed seeds from the nut of the tung tree and when applied to wood, penetrates deep into the grain, providing a tough, water-resistant finish. Professor Norm Kenkel, a biologist at the University of Manitoba, reminded me of another reason to use it: Tung oil is an environmentally safe and sustainable wood finishing product.” There are reasons why tung oil has been used as a wood finish for thousands of years. Polyurethane (a type of varnish) is one of the most commonly used wood finishes today. For the final coat you will want to apply a liberal coat of the Waterlox Original.

First, it should be run with the grain of the wood; then, a second pass should be made across the grain. I’m not going to be brand-specific in my answer here, but rather I want to encourage you to understand that all the things you mention in your list of concerns do attack and destroy wood finishes — and wood. While they penetrate into the wood pores, they offer little or no protection of the wood substrate.

There are a few scratches in the Waterlox not the actual wood from our kids but those are just signs of life as far as I’m concerned. Waterlox continues to manufacture wood finishes using the finest ingredients, combining tung oil, resins, mineral spirits and other ingredients to produce a complete wood finish that gives the look and feel of naturally oiled wood. Using a good quality 2 inch foam brush dip it about 1/3 of the way into the Waterlox.waterlox wood finish

My room is about 14′ x 24′, and I used almost one full gallon of the Waterlox Original, and about half a gallon of the Waterlox Satin. In most environments, in the first year, if care is taken in maintaining tops as stated above, tops will need less future maintenance since a durable, seasoned mineral oil finish is accomplished. I am guessing from what you say that your oil/varnish blend behaves” more like an oil finish in applying and repairing scratches, etc, rather than like varnish.

The only products that need mixing are the Waterlox Interior Satin, or the new Marine Satin. Before: My floors (previously finished with Waterlox) had paint drips, overspray, scratches, and dings from the last year of remodeling this room. Waterlox vs. Raw Tung Oil and Danish Oil – Waterlox dries better and forms a film that’s strong enough to walk on. Waterlox is also waterproof, while raw tung oil and danish oil will water spot. Waterlox Original is probably one of the most water-resistant things you can apply. I’m going to leave it for now and once the mutt dies (he’s old) perhaps then I’ll remove the finish and try again.

However, the rules for reproductions and collectable furniture restoration are far more flexible allowing a tung oil finish option to provide a functional alternative to shellac often applied over a two thin coats of dewaxed shellac to maintain the distinct finish appearance. The Hawkins family has worked for four generations to provide finishing solutions that enhance and protect the natural beauty of wood. Another possibility is that your customer stored some of the Waterlox in a partially full container and it started to gel on him but he used it anyways.

I should point out that if the finish is maintained evey two years or so it holds up very well. Because tung oil soaks into the wood, rather than sitting on the wood the resulting finish is softer than than polyurethane. I have a customer that has requested a douglas fir T&G ceiling with a natural finish for a 3-season porch in northern New England.