Based Finish (KTM)

The idea for this article on urethanes came from an individual I talked with at a home show in Victorville, California. For many of our customers (almost half, in fact), the Swedish finish and the fumes and inconvenience associated with it prompt them to choose a waterborne finish. But if your goal is a filled-pore, deep, lustrous finish, you must use a hard, film-forming finish (varnish, shellac or lacquer). Our ancestors realized this but found that if the oil was heated (boiled), the resulting product was thicker and dried quicker. To help woodworkers better understand wood finishes and some of the issues surrounding their applications, Flexner commented on some of the wood finishing basics.

Apply 1-2 coats of finish in these locations and thereafter finish the entire floor once or twice. I don’t have much experience with the water borne finishes but I do have the Earlex Spray Station and I love it. A drum or belt sander is typically used to lightly abrade the floor between coats, but a floor buffer with a maroon abrasive pad or extra-fine-grit sandpaper can also be used as it poses less risk of removing the previous finish coats. All wood finishes can be classified as one of two distinctly different types, based on how they dry, or cure. The poster rwiegand has given us firsthand experience with finish from one particular manufacturer.

Interesting how much difference that Boiled Linseed oil made in the final appearance. Appears cloudy in the can but dries to a tough, amber-colour film, like an oil-based finish. There are some more environmentally friendly products available too, such as Auro Floor Oil. They resist chemicals better, usually have a higher gloss, they do not raise wood grain, and are almost always more durable than water based urethanes. Tung oil is available in pure, unrefined form or heat-treated in a form called polymerized tung oil.

Finitec wood floor finishes can be applied over all kinds of oil or water based finishes for a successful restoration. The color can be darkened by multiple applications and lengthening the time the stain is allowed to penetrate the wood. You may need to reapply oil to the wood at some time in the future to help preserve the beauty of your floors. Long oil varnishes are also known as marine varnishes, spar varnishes or just plain exterior varnishes and are elastic and softer than short oil varnishes.

While a regular finish can greatly minimize the shrinkage and expansion of wood, the wood will still undergo some movement. I hang my guitars to dry in my wood room between coats, where I maintain 45% humidity year-round. I can’t do any oil, i have a severe allergy to it. i was suppristed to find out the water based one also have poly in it. no matter i must do water based in order to be able to live in my house. Contains UV absorbers that protect the finish and the wood from the sun’s rays.

If you don’t want to darken your wood (which wax tends to do), first apply a base coat of shellac or sanding sealer that penetrates and seals the wood. Never use wax products on urethane finished hardwood floors as they can make the surface slippery. The two most important aspects are getting the floor sanding right and choosing an appropriate finish. I think the issue comes in when you mix the poly and do some oil and some water.

The candelilla comes from the outer coating on a desert shrub, Euphorbia antisyphiliti, that grows in northern Mexico. They are generally the weak kneed acrylic based finishes, with no hardener additive. These are the easiest finishes to apply: Wipe them on, allow them to penetrate the surface of the wood and wipe off the excess with a rag. Keeping dirt and debris from building up by frequent vacuuming will help prevent scratches and damaging the wood. The wood in the recovered dent should then be dried and sanded smooth to match the surrounding wood.

You will probably want regular Bona Traffic on other flooring since the same friction that’s so helpful on stairs is less beneficial on normal wood floors unless you have special needs. Polyurethane gives wood floors depth and richness while protecting them from dint and spills Polyurethane finishes have been a mainstay in wood flooring and clear varnish applications for many years. Great wood floors are the result of quality materials, thoughtful design, and precise and careful installation. Many of the large DIY stores sell a varnish and stain combined because it cuts out the process of staining the wood separately.

As long as you don’t build up the finish beyond several coats, shellac, lacquer, varnishes and catalyzed finishes can all be used for natural-looking finishes. The dry flakes are dissolved in denatured alcohol for final use as a protective finish. For this reason, as pointed out by Flexner, many people prefer to omit the staining step when finishing wood. Both have extremely beautiful grain; but require the right finish to get the real beauty.

Surface-sealed floors: Most new wood floors are sealed with urethane, polyurethane or polyacrylic. By reducing the slip resistance of the furniture, items are more likely to glide across the finish instead of scratching it. Wax will also add a nice shine to the finish by filling in small scratches in the underlying protective finish. A hand rubbed lacquer finish has a deep, soft gloss and does not have the plastic appearance of many polyurethanes. I did not brush back and forth but laid down the finish as smoothly as possible, trying to have the finish flow onto the surface. Because it is microporous, Hardwax Oil works well in rooms with high humidity, such as kitchens.

Lacquer’s hardness makes it easier than polyurethane varnish to sand and then rub out the finish to a high shine. The finish may be brushed on or sprayed with any of the same kinds of equipment as one would use for lacquer. If I were spending the money, I’d get the best oil based finish or Swedish floor finish product possible. Water-based polyurethane is tough and durable, and it remains clear so the natural beauty of the wood isn’t altered. Apply water based Top Coats liberally using smooth even strokes working in the direction of the grain.

If using a solvent-based stain, allow much more time for a full dry before applying a water-based coating. With that said, remember you are applying finish to parts of a tree, and every piece will look different! The oils are absorbed into the wood as they are applied and the excess is then removed. On hard to stain woods such as cherry and maple the deep penetration of dye stains bring out the natural characteristics of the wood grain. Without seeing your floors, it sounds likely the Bona floor polish has bonded with the original finish.