Whereas a decade ago the marketing buzzword was green,” today’s hot-button word is natural.” We pay a premium for food that’s labeled as natural or organic. In the case of traditional solvent-borne varnishes, which are also available on the market, and which are used for manual varnishing of raw wood, the process of surface coating hardening consists in vaporizing the solvent from the previously applied varnish layer. Small holes and cracks in the wood can be filled using Minwax® Stainable Wood Filler. I’m considering either applying another coat of oil (I would prefer not to have to do that as I’ve applied a layer of batting on the seat cushion already and stapled down) or adding a wax layer on top.
Conventional spray polishes (Yes, Pledge, I’m talking about you) contain silicone, which looks great in the short term, but dulls quickly and can damage the wood in the long term. On projects receiving extra wear such as table and desk tops, additional coats will add more protection. Two years ago when we moved, we had all of the floors sanded down to the raw oak and I really loved the color and feel. No matter which finish you choose for your woodie, you will need to sand the wood thoroughly before applying the finish. Rub the oil into the wood and let it sit for 20 minutes or so. Wipe off any extra.
If you have a flat surface, such as a table top, you can squirt the polish directly on to the surface. Excess wax is usually removed with a buffer, steel wool and mineral spirits (note that mineral spirits is no longer legal to use in all areas). CHARACTERISTICS & QUALITIES: Gives a very professional looking, handsome finish yet is relatively easy to use.
Just linseed without wax will always require maintenance and re-application a couple times a year, with occasional sanding to boot. With either method, the wax hardens and is then buffed with, typically, steel wool or a white pad. Unfortunately, knowing which grit sandpaper to begin with, when it’s time to move to the next finer grit, and when the wood is ready to be stained or finished, can be learned only from experience. In upstate NY, you should be able to find craftsmen that sell the raw, unfinished liveedge slabs.
Sanding is carried out before finishing to remove defects from the wood surface that will affect the appearance and performance of finishes that are subsequently applied to the wood. Then, just keep adding layers and sanding them off until the surface is as level as you want it to be – as many as a dozen coats for a real mirror finish. It is these advantages that have brought the art of veneering into most professional cabinet and furniture shops. After this second sanding, the wood is ready for a stain or clear protective finish to be applied.
My aim in sanding pine after planing it is not to smooth the surface, it’s the opposite – to roughen it as finely and evenly as possible so that stain applies evenly. With lumber in hand, I worked out my cut plan-where to make the cuts on each board to use as much good wood as possible, and jump over cracks and significantly warped parts where possible. Sanding against the grain leaves scratches that will become painfully obvious when they later absorb either stain or finish.
The idea is that this harmless, innocuous substance penetrates the wood and remains there, helping to drive out moisture and preventing bacteria from getting lodged within the wood and breeding. Practise doing this on scrap pieces until you get the knack of feathering the edge of such corrections so they don’t show – I find a small brush moistened with boiling water handy for this.
The Minwax Company is a leading manufacturer of wood finishing and wood maintenance products for the do-it-yourself and professional markets. I was going to paint it a dark color, but I figured bare wood can go with a lot more things if we change it up again than if I were to paint it darker. Unless you are finishing a food-contact item like a salad bowl or spoon, your choice should be polymerized tung.
I think your best bet to both protect the wood and maintain an old, utilitarian-workpiece look versus a more plastic high-build finish is going to be some kind of wax, however the degree of roughness of your wood may preclude any wiped-on finish options. Oh, and if your first coat doesn’t come out as smooth as you like (it depends a lot on the wood; the varnish might cause the grain to swell a bit, making the surface a little rough) just wait for it to cure; lightly sand it with your 220 grit again (to knock down the tiny grainy bits sticking up) and put on another coat. It is amazing the difference in floor color between a water base and oil base finish.
We bought the dark brown salvage trestle table and treated with one coat of the 100% tung oil, after we tested it on an elm wood coffee table-natural color. The paint isn’t thick like other paints and doesn’t sit on top of the wood in layers but rather it penetrates the wood. I don’t know whether you’d have to sand deeper in order to stain – I also have no idea how long it’s been since you last refinished the floors. Cover enough floor area around your project to easily walk around it. Be mindful of the bottom of your shoes – don’t walk through drips and then track onto finished flooring.
It also provides a way of giving bland looking woods such as poplar, the appearance of prized furniture woods such as ebony, mahogany or walnut. Additionally, once wax is applied, no other current finish can be applied to the project to help protect the look of the wax finish. If you plan on using a water-based stain, use Minwax® Water Based Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner. Wax has the interesting property of being able to stick to anything but itself. The process is easier and less expensive than sanding down to bare wood and takes less time. This is a natural finishing material that comes in ‘blond’ and ‘amber’ tones right off the shelf.
It smoothes out the dried Minwax® Stainable Wood Filler, removes minor nicks and scratches, and opens the pores of the wood to accept more stain. The first flooring (cork floating panels) were acclimated” by opening the boxes of plastic-wrapped panels by slitting the top edge and letting them sit for a few days in the rooms they’d be installed in. We refloored within two years because the panels had started shrinking.
Staining should enhance the appearance of wood by reducing colour variation between and within sapwood and heartwood. There are several oil finishes that are the best in terms of water resistance and longevity: one is Amteco TWP 511C (Total Wood Preservative), made by Gemmi Coatings Inc, El Reno OK 73036, available through Kelly-Moore Paints. I’m sure I don’t have to tell you this, but make sure the wood is ready to accept the stain.
Filling holes in a clear finish introduces an additional complication – matching the color of the wood. Avoid it. Automobile finishes will last well outside, but may not flex sufficiently to deal with outdoor expansion/contraction of wood. Grits above #400 are Very Fine and are used for final buffing of the last coat of finish (more on that in Finishes). If it is the latter, it is not going to go away, the wood is a natural yellow-ish color. A wide variety of natural varnishes are sold for different uses, from marine applications to gymnasium floors to furniture.
If you insist on staining your pine doors with Dark Walnut stain, however, no amount of Wood Conditioner is going to eliminate all blotchiness, so don?t expect miracles. Butcher Block type counter tops, especially those containing a sink or stove top are best protected with a film building finish such as the Behlen Salad Bowl Finish (an FDA approved Urethane finish). If it is a large surface, sand the damaged area, feathering the edge between sanded and unsanded parts.
Materials: Most wood is by nature biodegradable, so anything not built of treated lumber (or rot resistant species such as teak, redwood, or cedar) will rot and break down with surprising speed. Tung sealer mix is available that has wetting and drying agents added to it. I find that new pine is so absorbent that this mix soaks in too much to seal.