Maybe cut the shoulders with a hand saw and cut the cheeks with the bandsaw or with a handsaw also. Following the drawing I’ve cut the pieces to size, cut the 1 1/2″ deep by 20″ long notch out of the platform on the bandsaw. Clean up the shoulder and cut it square by vertical paring with a wide bevel-edge chisel. The backer board is screwed in place so nothing moves during the cut and to prevent tear out on the back of the cherry rail as the cut is made. Tablesaw Joinery Jig Tight-fitting joints are a snap on any saw when using this sturdy but adjustable jig.
But the main reason I cut by hand is the quality of the cut and the low risk of botching the joint. He makes it clear that this is an acceptable method if you only have one or two tenons to make. With the Log Clamp, you have to loosen the clamp, spin the log, and re-tighten the clamp every time you’re ready to work on a different side of the log. The mortise is slightly dovetailed and two saw cuts are made in the tenon about 3⁄16 in. from each side. Alternately, you could cut a mortise in each side (again with the router) and then slip in a loose tenon. This type of joint is also used to connect the rail to the leg of an ordinary kitchen table (see Fig.
Cut to rough size”, (I leave an inch or so on each end), I must now cut a rectangular hole (a 2″ wide by 6″ long window) in the top; this is the area where the router bit will pass through the top and into the material being mortised. Cutting tenons by multiple passes over the tablesaw is fine on short boards but I find longer boards are too unweildyfor that method. Get rid of the table saw fence depth stop and add two more guides with fitted holes on the other side.
One is to place a backup fence board equal to the thickness of your tenon stock board under the Guide Rail, and set back this backup fence board from the splinter strips by an amount equal to the thickness of the tenons you want to make. The shoulder is the visible part of the joint and if you have to make an adjustment after the cut for appearance’s sake, you change the length. The width of a blind tenon does not need to be cut as perfectly as its thickness. Both Trend ( ), and Leigh, ( ), make a dedicated jig that you can use to rout both the tenons and mortises.
I now have a router that is locked into position in the exact center of my center line and with no lateral movement. I set the fence so that the cut line on the outside of the cheek is lined up with the inside tooth of the saw blade. If the leg is proud of the rail or vice versa you may have to clean it up with the hand plane. A high-quality stacked dado is one of the most important accessories you can add to your table saw. So why not create a pice of furniture using joints that will truely pass the test of time! Switch off the router, but wait until the bit stops spinning before lifting the router.
A rule of thumb for cutting tenons is that they should be equal half the thickness of the board, and tenon length should be 4 to 5 times the thickness of the tenon. It provides a foundation on which every cut is calculated, so it is essential that the fence does not falter under pressure. There is already a question about making mortise and tenon joints using hand tools It would be nice to also catalog the various ways of making mortise and tenon joints using power tools.
On the other side is where the haunch will be and all you do is cut half way down the tenon to create it. Most customers don’t even think twice about tenons cut with a Tenon Cutter because they’re so used to it. But that’s why my tenons tend to jump out at them – it’s something refreshing they haven’t seen before and all of a sudden they wonder what else they’ve been missing! The second method of cutting tenons is with a band saw and all you have to do is cut along the lines like you do with the saw. Step4: Now you must cut the mortise and once again there are two methods and the first involves a mallet and chisel. Sawdust buildup in the kerf is the major reason why a hand saw wanders from the line.
If the tenon is too tight, make a tiny adjustment to the saw blade, go over the entire tenon area again, and then re try the fit. My safety rules have been to make sure that the Miter Gauge is solid and supports the work close to the blade, the fence is properly set and the workpiece is small enough to handle with one hand. If you want to cut a tenon at your tablesaw without using a dado set or the method mentioned in Practice No. 3 on the pervious page—both of which leave pretty rough shoulders and cheeks—you’ll have to stand the board on end.
I find it easier to start with my rails wide, cut the tenons, then trim the rails to their finished widths cutting some off each edge. Begin by lightly tracing the edges with a sharpe marking knife-I’m currently using a Czeck Edge Hand Tool, which I find very good for this purpose. Seems to me the biggest differences between what Glen showed versus what Bob showed was how the cut was backed up. Glen has full length support behind his stock, Bob`s doesn`t seem to. During the sliding (bumping) portion this full support is what allows a person to hold the stock in a controlled manner.
These logs help us understand the needs of our audience and the areas of our site that you do or do not find useful. I then file the cut smooth and I’m left with a threaded insert that is now short enough to be countersunk below the upper and lower surface of the 1/2″ thick top. In this piece the depth is only about 1/8″ and the cut only requires a few strokes if you use the entire length of the saw. The knife line acts as a guide for the saw if you use a gentle touch to push the saw forward as you start the cut. He shows how to fine tune the tenons using an ordinary block plane and chisels for those who do not own a good shoulder plane.