WALL PANEL INSTALLATION Silicone Adhesive Panel Installation Order Cutting Notches & Holes Silicone Application about 8” apart For best results, Silicone from. Just a point on the drywall screws putting it up think about where you might be screwing in the shower panels and other accessories as you do not want to hit a screw head under the tile. The final step on our backer board install was to tape the seams with fiberglass mesh, then apply a coat of thinset over top of it, really getting it into the joint of the seams. We will be installing either ceramic tile or stone over the screened porch floor underlay hardibacker.
Everything beneath your tile is important, if any one aspect is done incorrectly it may compromise the integrity of your installation. After several taps, the backer board will fracture along the holes and the circle of backer board will break free. A 3 x 5-foot sheet of 1/4-inch backer board costs between $9 and $11; the same-size sheet in 1/2 inch costs about $12 to $14. A cement backerboard for tile and stone, to be used as an alternative to plasterboard or plywood for tiling on floors and countertops. Score the top side then use a circular saw to finish the cut thru the hardibacker.
As the name suggests, this model is hand-operated (no foot pedal) and it takes some serious muscle to make a cut, especially a long miter cut. For straight cuts, a mark can be placed on both sides of the board to aid in cutting with the scoring tool. Before laying the tile, use the same mortar you will use for the tile to fill in the joints, tape off the mortar, and level. Hardibacker board is made chiefly of Portland cement, ground sand, cellulose fibers and selected additives. Cement backer board creates a much flatter, harder substrate than plywood, which can warp, sag, or rot.
To drive the screw heads below the board surface with no. It seems that the hammering action makes a big. GreenGoddess was asking about HardiBacker – a tile backer board that is not normally used as siding and does not come painted or primed. This blade is not recommended for use in Wonderboard because it is cement board versus fiber cement. HardieBacker cement backerboard is available from most leading builders merchant and tile shops.
I cut the pipe properly and squarely – the original looked like it had been cut with a chainsaw by the monkey who installed it. I don’t know that one product is better than the other, I just prefer the hardibacker for the nice edges and being able to score and snap it. My intention is to use cement board as a retaining wall to shore up a vermicrete structure.
This thickness would allow us to apply the backer board directly to the wall, providing an even and predictable surface for us to apply the tile, and would do so without adding significant thickness to the wall and thus sacrificing counter space. If you are putting up the Hardi Plank and have a cement siding blade you can use your skilsaw to make a series of plunge cuts so you get something that looks like a cut up pie, than you use a hammer/pair of pliers to remove the sections. That being said, the blade will cut Wonderboard; however it will not last as long as it would cutting Hardie/fiber cement.
Drill cutouts for electrical boxes and pipes with regular twist bits or spade bits, and make interior or even curved cuts with a jigsaw fitted with a tungsten or carbide grit blade (these blades are available at home centers and tile stores). Once laid into the thinset bed the floor becomes a solid, fully supported substrate for your tile – that’s what you want.
You may want to lay the Hardibacker over a straight surface such as a table edge so the snap is straight. In general, use nails that penetrate the studs at least 1 in. Drive the nailheads snug against the fiber cement board. I want to voice a note of caution however, you should NOT use a power saw to cut Hardibacker unless you are wearing a resperator, and you should wear a resperator when sweeping up cuttings as well. A drywall rasp is a tool used to smooth or shape cut edges and trim excess material when hanging sheets of drywall.
Remember to brace them correctly and also remember that none of these products (with the exception of Lux and Wedi Board)are a waterproof barrier. However, I should mention that by the end of the cut I noticed that all the teeth on the blade had been worn down to mere nubs, so if you have a lot of circular cuts to make, be sure to have plenty of metal-cutting jigsaw blades on hand. The first was to give ourselves a solid surface to which we could apply the tile. I started my siding job with a Piranha carbide blade in my circular saw because the Hardiblade I ordered had not shown up.
Get rid of the backer board all together if you are refusing to place thin set under it as it serves no purpose for you. Im not familiar with hardiplank or panel but if its similar to the backer board its good stuff, but the backer definately needs a preparation. If you pull out the entire room you may get to the last piece and discover everything has shifted 1/2″ and the last piece needs to be cut again. Its easy to handle in tight corners with enough power to cut through mixed substraight.
Otherwise, the toilet won’t make a good seal with the wax ring and this could lead to a water leak that might ruin the floor & wood support structure (note, this leak will likely happen on a holiday or the middle of the night-i.e. anytime a plumber isn’t working). If driven too deep, the heads will crush the fiber cement board and reduce the nail’s holding power. It’s alot easier to cut and you can bend it into a ring around the base of your WFO to get a start when pouring your insulation.
The primary (and perhaps only) significant advantage to ordinary cement board/wonderboard is that you can score and break it with a utility knife, whereas you should use a circular saw to cut Hardibacker. I had to tile all the tile floors in this house and a few others, and I like the Durock but was forced to use Wonderboard a few times due to availability.
The first was that the material is a bitch to cut; no matter what we did score-and-snap would not work, we couldn’t use high-speed power tools because it kicked up ridiculous amounts of cancer-dust (and dulled the blades), and it melted most of our jigsaw blades. I’m attempting to tile 316 sq ft. by myself because I can’t afford to have someone here for hours and hours charging me huge dollars. Help prevent underlayment mold and moisture damage in wet areas by installing HardieBacker 1/4 in. or HardieBacker 500 cement board. Of course my contractors did not apply thinset b/t the hardibacker and existing floor.
Place 3 vertical 10-12mm beads of high strength, single part, gap filling cartridge adhesive evenly down the back of the board and fasten HardieBacker® with 9 (6mm x 60mm) stainless steel screws into brown wall plugs. I lay tile and hardwood for a living and I see with my own eyes what can and will happen if you get lazy and forgo using the thinset underneath. For take-two of cement board installation, we got smart and Googled once again.
For the contractor who measures siding jobs by the square mile, not the square foot, I think the $1,150 Pacific International SS110A Pneumatic Production Shear is the Cadillac. Make sure you cut in to the board, then put a 2×4 underneath one edge of the cut and press down on the side that does not have the 2×4 underneath. If you are covering countertops with tile , Hardibacker board will provide extra durability and resistance to moisture. When using a jigsaw to cut a round or square hole, start by drilling a hole through the backer board with a 3/8-inch-diameter masonry drill bit.
This leaves you with stock that is only grooved rather than cut and going back to recut it to full depth is a giant pain. If you plan to hang a lot of fiber cement, though, you’ll want a chop saw with a proper blade that will allow you to cut several pieces at once. It’s a little hard to explain how magical this tool is, so we made a demonstration video for you.
If using a compound or chop saw, you will cut thru so fast, with so little dust, for some cuts and having a light breeze to take the dust from you, you’ll be tempted to now put the mask on every time. The same goes for tiling in a shower – you should use either backer board or an appropriate waterproofing membrane over your surface (even drywall is appropriate if you use the right waterproofing). Kerdi will be applied over top, so I’m not worried about ‘perfect’ cuts on the backer board (this will be a steam shower).