To achieve a high gloss finish it is first necessary to sand the surface so it is perfectly flat with all of the imperfections and orange peel removed. As an example of the ranges of the various elements of the combination where a given amount of spar varnish is employed, I set forth the following: Example D 21 parts of spar varnish; 0 to 32 parts of China wood oil; 2 to 21 parts of paraffin wax; 28 to 138 parts of petroleum and coal tar naphtha; 5 to 18 parts of gum or wood turpentine or pine oil; and 0 to 3 parts of drier described above.
Take a good look at the results you’ve achieved thus far; if you feel more gloss is called for, then replace the buffing pad with a new one and apply your finer polishing compound and give it another go. Again, be very careful not to get caught up in the process and buff right through the finish, as it can become quite intoxicating to see the deep, mirror-like finish appear.
Example 0 I melt 51 pounds of paraffin wax in a suitable container of about gallon capacity and, when melted, add 10 gallons of spar varnish described above, 14 gallons of China wood oil that has been heated to 400 Fahrenheit for 3 hours, 68 gallons of petroleum or coal tar naphtha, or a mixture of both, 9 gallons of wood gum turpentine or pine oil, 1 gallon of manganese drier described above and /g gallon tri-metal drier described above.
When melted I add with constant stirring 10 gallons of the spar varnish just described, 14. gallons of petroleum naphtha or coal tar thinner, or a mixture of both and 2 gallons of gum or wood turpentine or pine oil. I don’t want a perfect finish, it’s just sort of a shame that lots and lots of very small finish scratches are sort of ruining the guitar… Thanks! Rouge, is French for ‘red’, and even though it is then semantically incorrect to call green or white polishing compound rouge, we do it anyway.
Rub more oil into the wood at regular intervals, at least once a week for up to six months, concentrating on a different area each time. Stop sooner at a lower grit and you can achieve the perfect semi-gloss, satin, or matte finish. Try a light misting on the strop with water to see of this helps the compound to adhere a little more readily and for longer. Apply enough coats of satin finish you will see a slight loss of clarity in the build. Menzerna Wax 439T – Pre-polish cutting compound for swift removal of 220 grit sanding marks on all metals. There is NO need to soften or moisten the compound by heating or adding water to the compounds.
Apply a few drops of automotive polishing compound to the surface, and then spread it around with the polishing pad on the orbital buffer. Almost anything you can think of that will hold the compound can, and has been, used as a polishing pad. The first of Jerry’s products which I used was the Wood Buff and I now use this as my standard means of finishing my lathe turned items. Any gloss finish can be rubbed out to flat or satin, but the real difference between a brittle finish and a flexible finish is when you try to polish it back up to gloss.
It was still a semi-gloss finish and the guys on the forum were talking about having to take out the sanding scratches. After the wood has been completely infused with the stabilizing solution it is heat cured. However, it sometimes cannot complete the restoration job when it comes to the surface of an originally high shine wood finish. An abrasive material consisting of coarse grains of iron oxide that is used for grinding metal before polishing. Extremely fine buffing agent, which can be applied by hand or with a mechanical buffer on most any well cured finish.
T Cut Color Fast Red Scratch Remover Abrasive Compound Car Polish 150g 5.90. T-Cut Colour Fast Scratch Remover Red 150g rids your paintwork of scratches, scuffs, blemishes and even adds colour. The most widely used abrasive, generally used for ferrous alloys, high tensile materials and wood. Care should also be taken when power grinding/sanding stabilized wood to avoid overheating the material.
Fine finishing compounds, usually designed for the auto industry, are always dry and powdery as they don’t want to finish and leave a greasy layer. Level II, Step 2 Liquid Polishing Compound chemically cleans and polishes while removing Step 1 compound scratches and swirl marks. You can always add a bit more, but if you apply too much compound, you may burn right through the finish, or load the pores of the wood with compound. Make sure you don’t contaminate your buffing pads as you work up through compounds.
And when he says automotive rubbing compound/automotive polishing compound”, that’s not the stuff you find on the shelf in the automotive section at Walmart. I’ve been making do with Farecla polishing compound up ’till now (a more expensive version of T-Cut). If used carelessly or without experience a power buffer will ruin your finish in the blink of an eye, curdling or burning your finish – watch out around the edges; alwyas buffing off the edge.
What I liked most was that this created a bright, light, smooth and incredibly tactile finish but not with the hard glossy, glassy, polished-plastic look with which some workers damn their work, but with a deep gleam that really brought out the beauty in the timber. This listing is for a 500g bar of BLACK buffing compound, suitable for first stage polishing of copper, aluminium, brass, steel and stainless steel.
The more rows and the closer the rows, the stiffer the buff will be. Loosely stitched buffs are generally used for final buffing with rouge, and will flare out to give a wide-angle ultra smooth polishing surface. Depending on the type of finish you have applied, the temperature, humidity and how many coats of finish you have applied, the finish can take anywhere from 36 hours to a couple of weeks to cure. Some of the polishing steps would likely work fine; I’m not certain about the sanding part. Each compound is individually labeled, bearing the product number, product description and its recommended use. Additionally, Matchless now offers products designed for wood construction instruments.