How To Remove Paint From Wood Trim

Wood trim is a great finishing touch that really brings the elements of a room together. I couldn’t agree more that if the house is in very original condition, saving the trim is the right thing to do, bearing in mind the safety concerns of stripping it. Where I work (eastern NY), most of the old homes are post and beam (at least originally); the base trim was applied directly to the beams, then the lath and plaster was run down to the base trim.

The heat loosens up the paint, so that you can remove it with the scraper (also included in the kit.) For large flat surfaces (like a table top), There is an attachment that helps channel the hot air (that’s over 1000 degrees!) right where you want it to go. I worked in small 4 inch square areas, so the paint wouldn’t cool and re-harden before scraping.

What ever surface you are sanding or stripping you will create a huge amount of dust that will get everywhere and will take a lifetime to clean up and in some cases can damage electrical equipment if left unprotected (always ensure any furniture etc…. is covered and you are wearing goggles and a suitable dust mask) and also you have to be aware of the surface you are sanding e.g. if it is wood then you have to be careful to run with the grain of the wood as you can damage the surface.

Summary: In this DIY guide you learn about the various methods of stripping paint and removing paint from surfaces such wood and metal using a variety of paint strippers and techniques such as gel, liquid and paste based paint strippers, eco friendly and non solvent based paint strippers and also how to strip paint using blow torches and heat guns.

The moisture penetrates into the wood and creates, what is called in the historic restoration trade, dead, gray wood.” Even with careful scraping, which must be done while the surface coatings are hot and moist, a significant layer of the old wood is pulled up. An extra surface preparation step is required to sand away this now feathered wood to make it smooth for painting.

We considered calling it quits from here (our hands were both aching) and we thought it might be nice to leave the paper down while we painted the rest of the room (walls & ceiling), but I was getting paranoid that our rosin paper on the floor had only performed as well as it had on the windows (I was picturing giant blobs of paint having leaked through) so we went ahead and peeled it up. And it was PERFECT.

The treatments recommended—based upon field testing as well as onsite monitoring of Department of Interior grant-in-aid and certification of rehabilitation projects—are therefore those which take three overriding issues into consideration (1) the continued protection and preservation of the historic exterior woodwork; (2) the retention of the sequence of historic paint layers; and (3) the health and safety of those individuals performing the paint removal.

Power washing with detergent will NOT kill mold – you should first kill the mold with a mildewcide/antifungal especially designed for siding, wait the specified number of hours or days for it to work, then powerwash with detergent, rinse, dry, then prime with an antifungal paint like Kilz Premium Primer, then 2 topcoats of an appropriate finish paint with added mildewcide packets.

I actually didn’t own any work lights that we didn’t mind getting misted with paint spray (between this and just recently buying a dolly, you guys are probably questioning our preparedness) so I ran out to Home Depot after I was done with the primer coat and bought a couple , along with the trim paint that I’d need the next morning (Simply White in semi-gloss by Ben Moore).

Oil paints shrink less upon drying than latex paints and thus do not have as great a tendency to pull the old paint loose. For exterior siding, flat and low sheen finishes are better because they’re easier to touch-up, and they don’t highlight surface imperfections. I am stripping a piece of furniture today and sure enough the primer was down in the pores of the wood.

I don’t always follow my own advice here (mostly because in this tiny condo, I don’t have adequate space to have cabinet doors lying around), but I do notice that when I place the cabinet doors horizontally to paint and dry, gravity takes it course, and helps to minimize the brush strokes even further. Infrared heat opens the grain of the wood much more effectively than any other paint removal method without damaging the wood. If you find that it is a Varnish on the chair you could try the Paint Panther which is designed to make the paint/varnish bubble up so that it can be scrapped off.

Today both blowtorches and heatguns are available to strip paint, the former using a naked flame to heat the paint while the latter uses just heated air. Two things to keep in mind: First, there is a good chance that the paint you are stripping is lead-based, so read up on the dangers of lead, especially if you have kids. It usually comes in a paste form that softens a single layer of paint in 10 to 12 hours – which means the paint or varnish beneath is probably safe. Wrinkling is usually caused when the paint has been applied too heavily, in extreme temperatures (hot or cold) or if there wasn’t enough drying time between coats.

For larger areas of painted wood, including large pieces of wood furniture, large wooden chests, or wood trim, rely on a mechanical sander to save time. Benjamin Moore Advance paint is what I used (and am still using) on my kitchen cabinets, which I hope to be finished with this week. Ive just started some test batches using JASCO paint remover and also CitriStrip. Pleased to hear that you enjoyed our blog post on how to remove paint from wood.

If you thwart that process by using fans to speed up the drying time, you’ve completely defeated the purpose of the conditioner and placing the doors horizontally to dry. We found the filler would sometimes get onto the wood surrounding the hole and would discolor it, necessitating more sanding. Rub petroleum jelly on door and window hinges and handles before painting – it makes them easier to clean. If it’s simple casings and trim which can be easily replaced with an off-the-shelf twin, then I wouldn’t even consider stripping it.

I found this recipe many moons ago and always keep it close by. It is the fastest way I know of to remove Nicotine , and is a general cleaner for painted walls and woodwork. If you’ve been following along on Facebook or Instagram , you know that we DIDN’T paint the door. With the ever-increasing number of buildings being rehabilitated, however, paint removal technology should be stimulated and, in consequence, existing methods refined and new methods developed which will respect both the historic wood and the health and safety of the operator. Replace worn wallpaper in rentals with paint (after stopping to a paint finish).

Therefore, if repainting is primarily to alter a building’s primary and accent colors, a technical factor of paint accumulation should be taken into consideration. The final combination was a mixture of three Minwax stains (2 parts red mahogany, 2pts colonial maple, 3pts natural) to give it an aged wood tone it would have had from aging orange shellac. Repeat until all the paint has been removed and once all removed you will then need to go back over with some sandpaper (more than likely a fine grade 800 to1200 grit) and rub the surface down to remove any final residue and also give the paint a decent surface to key to.

Hi, my contractor stripped the wI down and base trim as well as a door with commercial stripper. I don’t have any experience with stripping paint but you are doing an amazing job at transforming your home! Liquid chemicals are often applied in spray form and are usually used to clean coatings or a couple of layers. Let it sit on the wood for a little bit, then very lightly wipe it off with a clean rag.