Wooden planes for sure are high on the list of things to try, but given their size and blockiness, I’m less worried about dimensional stability than I am for something like ‘winding sticks’. You don’t need any kind of specialized dado-cutting bits: The commonplace, conventional straight bit — the double-flute — will give excellent results for all but the most troublesome workpieces. Clamp the straight edge to the timber to be straightened.. providing of course there is room by on a 5×2 there should be Set up to run the edge of the base plate against the straight edge and run off a thin cut , 5 or 6 mm That should give you a straight edge , then finish with your jointer plane.
There are a lot of stupid kitchen tools that could really get me going, but I kind of felt sorry for the old-fashioned rounded wooden spoon in this rant. I did see a posting from tools that essentially made a nice wooden stand alone yoke to support the cast iron when upside down. While separate clamps aren’t needed with such a device, you still need to align it with a square, because it won’t square itself to an edge.
If I am understanding this correctly, you seem to take no exacting measure to ensure the tapered edge is parallel to the wider edge. See my tutorial You can make your straight edge most any size, but the longer the straight edge is, the more accurate it will be. I must say that Michael made a compelling point and, the next time I’m in a kitchen store, I will be replenishing my flat-edged spoon supply. Next, spin the tool 180°, keeping the same face up, and show the same edge to the line.
Yep, jointer….but then I learned to keep plenty of weight on the end I was feeding in, which seemed to help, but still the edges are not really dead straight. Set one edge of the try square against the newly cut edge, lining up the second edge of the try square with the width mark you just made. A scrap clamped to the work’s edge prevents damage to it; instead the blowout affects the scrap.
Like you did in step 3, mark your desired button width along the edge you just cut (measuring away from the edge you cut in step 2). Rest one edge of the try square against the line you just cut, lining up the second edge of the try square with the new width mark. Then, using the second edge of the try square as a guide, draw a straight line away from width mark down the full length of your piece of wood, creating a right angle with the edge that you cut in step 2. It’s two, four foot aluminum extrusions that slip together to make an eight foot edge.
Personally I’d thickness the side I was going to work on so I could see the marks clearly then clamp on a straight edge and run a good sharp powersaw along the cut, if the straight edge isn’t long enough snap a line and mark reference points to move it along , risky but OK if you’re careful. Or even better, my all-time favorite stirrer is a silicone spatula with a nice curve on one edge, and a nice flat tip and straight other edge The best of both worlds. Use a saw to carefully cut along the line you just drew, creating a straight edge.
Coachroof coamings were often 25′ or more long and they did have to be hand planed straight so they could be glued up from more than one width and that was quite a challenging job. Either using aluminium as a router guide, or running the router between to almost straight pieces, with another almost straight piece as a guide. Schwarz has a really nice wooden straight edge, Rob Cosman also sells some wooden winding sticks. Wooden handles can provide a way to stabilize the straight edge when upside down on a work bench, if you wanted to apply prussian blue to the working surface.
His attacking of the rounded wooden spoons is warranted from a cooks perspective, from one who spends more time caressing the innards of a pot or pan. I SO agree…and I do own a flat edged wooden spoon and really its the only one of the wooden I use. As a substitution – the edge of a plywood sheet is a good reference, but only goes so far – not accurate enough to dial in your machines to (TS/Jointer/etc), but since this is not your goal, you shouldn’t worry about it. To straighten an edge using a router you need an already straight board, plywood rip, whatever you have. However, by understanding a bit about the way wood works, you can make a wooden straightedge that is both accurate and durable.
Clamp straight edge along cut line, allowing for width of circular saw blade and saw guard (Image 2). A clamping straight edge can be purchased or made with a scrap piece of straight-sided wood and clamps. I concede that those heavy-duty silicone spatulas are pretty cool, but I still want to stir the first stages of my thick dough with a wooden spoon in my big old bread bowl. Never really thought about it. At my family home, my dad (almost 90) still has the” wooden spoon that’s seen us through 60+ years of tomato sauce, stews, brownie batter, you name it. It’s pretty flat on the bottom now, but it started out round.
You can mount any kind of wood handle you like on a camelback straight edge so long as when mounting it neither clamping forces or the dimensional changes from moisture uptake aren’t transferred to the metal. Straight sides= square peg in a round hole, and since 90% of of the flat tipped wooden spoons also have straight sides, they become that square peg in the round bowl and they just don’t scrape the curve of the bowl well.
I normally make my own straight edges, winding sticks and travellers using quarter-sawn stock in whichever timber I have on hand at the time, because it’s less likely to distort, but seldom make squares. I do have straight edges, but where to put it if there is no straight reference point. Now, using that edge against the rip fence on the table saw make the other edge parallel.
A Straight edge is one of those non cutting yet essential woodworking tool that we all so frequently forget about. Put a nice straight edge on a piece of 2×6 that’s twice as long as your work plus 1 foot, so 13 feet. On straightedges, one edge is curved simply so you’ll know which is the trued edge and which is not. A short jointer is fine if you can get the edge fairly straight before you run it over the jointer. Stagger the joints, leaving a 10mm expansion gap around the edge of the room and 5mm between the boards.
If you use a box cutter, straight razor blade, or other extremely sharp object, use extreme caution! But to me, the knowledge embodied in this simple object — a wooden stick that is straight and true — deserves a great deal of respect. Usually when you want to make sure that you have a straight object, you compare it to a reference object — one which is known to be very straight. It basically allows you to clamp a known straight board to your crooked board, so you can run the known board against your table saw fence.