This thread on Reddit brings to light an old record store trick: To clean dust and dirt that’s lodged into the grooves on an old record, just grab for a bottle of wood glue. It is important to get even, continuous glue coverage on the surfaces to be bonded, so apply yellow glue to both surfaces when you can. Aside from excellent sandability, it is used to achieve the crackling effect, a weathered look that is used to add character to furniture. You might be able to use a toothpick or your fingernail to lift up the glue, but don’t use anything made of metal or hard plastic. If I need a waterproof glue joint, I’ll use either epoxy or a waterproof PVA glue. In fact, neither white or yellow glue is ideal if you absolutely need a water-resistant bond. High-Strength wood glue with outstanding heat resistance and fast setting speed.
For gluing metals, ceramics and woods, some adhesives recommend scoring or lightly sanding the surface where you will be applying the glue in order to create a better bond. This is because tiny amounts of wood glue are enough to fix small pieces of wood together. Plus if only a small amount of glue is needed it is difficult to mix small quantities accurately.
I always date the bottle when I get it. I toss yellow glue, CA glue and polyurethane glue after one year. However it was the end grain joints which demonstrated this effect the most as I was able to break the unfilled joint by hand; it just snapped cleanly through the glue line. After that, yellow glue will dry yellow and may show through your finish and stain.
Some of the expanding glues require the surface to be slightly damp beforehand to activate the glue. The end grain joint was surprisingly hard to break but when it did go it broke cleanly through the glue line. I have used it myself and found it to be an excellent wood glue, with one problem… once opened, it does not have a long shelf life. But for most intents and purposes, in the short amount of time that is elapsed in the gluing process, so little of the glue sinks down into the wood grain that it is essentially waterproof, or perhaps more accurately, glueproof. Is at a good viscosity to soak into the wood by the right amount to form a strong joint.
Sold under brand names like Super Glue and Krazy Glue, this is the glue (chemical name, cyanoacrylate) to keep on hand for household emergencies. One of the suggestions I could make that if possible or when possible to mortise out a section of the two pieces being glued together and incerting another, glue friendly wood, to bond the two together. As it turns out, though, there’s a reason why good old yellow PVA wood glue and the more advanced type 1 waterproof glues, like Titebond III , are the glues of choice for so many applications – they’re inexpensive, easy to use, and in just about every situation, the strongest.
For outdoor chairs, I saw yankee workshop use marine glue from a caulking cylinder dispenser. That’s about it. It’s cheaper than buying an expensive vacuum record cleaner (a device that uses liquid to clean the LP and then vacuums off the dirty fluid instantly), and a useful way to improve the quality of the dodgier end of your record collection. If a PVA glue doesn’t have either of these ratings printed on the bottle, or the word weatherproof” isn’t mentioned, it’s probably not for use outdoors. Chris Marshall: I’m saying this jokingly, but if hide glue is your favorite, Douglas, that definitely would be a bad choice … it dissolves in water.
Some people suggest applying the glue is easier to do if you have the LP on a spinning turntable, but trust me: applying glue to moving objects is not the easy option unless you like to live dangerously, or scrape globs of glue from expensive turntables. For the second and third rows, drive staples every 3 to 4 inches at a 45-degree angle, just above the tongue using a pneumatic staple gun.
Unlike glues, where the parts are pressed together while the glue is wet, contact cement is applied to both sides of the objects to be glued and then allowed to dry before assembly. Wiping wet glue has given me trouble when some of the excess glue would be rubbed into the pores of the wood. Wood glues aren’t really suitable for gap filling because they soak into the wood and leave the gap empty, or worse, the glue cures in flaky wafers that fill the gap, but have little structural integrity.
If you plan to use adhesives for an extended period of time or if the glue has a very high toxicity level, you should definitely err on the safe side and use a respirator, even if you are in a well-ventilated area. Just put on a drop of glue and hold the wood in place for 30-60 seconds (again, check the label for that specific glue). I have had much better success with letting the glue dry and scraping the excess away.
This was the first post I saw about CA glue but wasn’t sure what it was or where I could get it. Any info would be great as I want to get past this step prior to application of Mineral Oil. You also need to determine how strong you want the adhesion to be. With regard to musical instruments, you will need glue that can easily be removed. This is when the wood glue will act as a holding agent before you attach large bolts or screws, which will secure pieces of wood together permanently. If there are gaps, regular masking tape can be used to coat the vulnerable areas for the glue to cascade out onto as it expands… and expand it will!
For a traditionalist the words wood glue would actually call to mind hot hide glue and nothing else. Storing the bottle upside down will help keep the glue from solidifying between uses. I recommend that when you use a woodworker’s glue such as Titebond 2, keep a bowl of water and a damp rag nearby to wipe off any glue that might get onto the surface of the veneer.