The sawhorse is a familiar sight in on construction sites, or in the bed of a contractor’s pickup. Stand your partially assembled horses upright, and measure down from the bottom of your top board about 8 inches (20cm), and using a short board, scribe it to be a horizontal spreader brace to fit between the legs. Kinda overkill, but If i had the time, space for storage and budget, I’ll construct the same saw horse just like sportbugger’s. These low horses are easy to build and help keep your projects up off the surface of your workbench when needed.
The choice is generally based on what types of fasteners are available at the time of building, since many people build saw horses on the job site. This will be nailed across the grain into the bottom of the top board, so use nails that are large enough to get a good bite, at least 12d, and blunt the ends to prevent the wood from splitting. The skill level for building these job site sawhorses is rated for a novice, or DIY person.
These sawhorses will definitely take more than an hour to build but they are included on this list as inspiration. Japanese carpentry prides itself on using advanced joinery techniques that require finely-planed wood surfaces. In the great minds think alike” department, apparently I am not the first person to be inspired to make three-legged plywood sawhorses The design linked to there takes this idea, buffs it way the heck up, and adds a lot of interesting accessories. If I need another one, I can use the existing ones along with a pattern-copying router bit to make a third in no time.
The Shop Boss from A.W. Engineering joins two metal legs with a 2×4 backbone to create a folding horse/bench hybrid. There are several options to look at if you’re interested in buying folding sawhorses. The compound miters make this one a little trickier to build than the others, but if you take one component at a time and label them as you go, in a couple of hours you’ll have a pair of sawhorses that your own grandkids will be proud to replicate someday. They are super lightweight, pack flat and have an abundance of places to clamp things — and if I need more places to clamp things, it’s just a hole saw away.
If they can serve multiple functions or have some extra features that make them more useable that would be best. The products shown here range in cost from $10 to $90 per pair, with most quality sawhorses falling into the $30 to $80 range. As a carpenter, I also wanted it to be as stable as a non folding sawhorse, very strong and durable, and, if possible, look professional.
These five sawhorse plans require little more than a circular saw and some 2 x 4s and plywood to build. We use our foldable saw horses to make portable tables and work benches in the production shop because they are as stable as non folding sawhorses and allow the flexibility to easily disassemble the work benches when not needed. Since they’re held together with screws in soft wood, the screw holes gradually expand and make the sawhorses prone to wobble and fall apart.
With an inexpensive ($ ish) piece of dimensional lumber at top, you can have no qualms about drilling or cutting into the top of your saw horses, lessening tearout, and making for safer and stronger operation. The concept grew from my frustration at being unable to find a lightweight, compact, folding saw horse that I could take to and from job sites. These aren’t screwed in because they are meant to be replaced as you cut them with your saw while making cuts. Job site sawhorses like the ones we build will take a PRO 15 minutes to build and a DIYer 30 minutes, assuming all of your tools are set up.
My top choice of wood for this project is redwood, which is readily available here in California. And while you can certainly buy ready-made sawhorses at your local big box hardware store, you miss out on the fun and satisfaction of building a piece of equipment that will serve you for years to come. These are the type of saw horses that get thrown in the dumpster at the end of the job or more than likely left for the client. I cut mine to 21″ long because I wanted my sawhorses to be kid-height (for a fun project I’ll share later on this week) but you can make yours however tall or short you’d like. I figured the 2 x 3 lumber would save me some weight and still be plenty strong.
The next reason why building these sawhorses is important to share is because small projects are critical to learning to work with one another. The plan is picture 3 in the image gallery: -?id=70064&seq=2 Also, it would be easy to convert this into a workbench by adding a piece of plywood with a 2×4 underneath. I’ll be back later on this week to share why I made these kid-height DIY sawhorses.
Back then we called saw horses mules,” and shorter versions were called ponies.” We often made and combined the small ones with planks for interior work such as installing crown molding. Another version of the folding saw horse I’ve seen has a hinged shelf in place of the chains. CARRY 2 in 1 HAND: Compact, lightweight design and flexible handle make it easy to carry two saw horses in one hand. You’ll notice that you can make your angle brace cuts to follow the outer leg or revert to square. The wooden design has an old-school quality, look, and feel, while still incorporating modern and innovative functionality. Then turn it over and put the other 42 inch 2X4 on the other side to make them into an ‘I’ beam.
For ease of set up, transport and storage I’ve always gravitated toward the folding plastic saw horse. They’ll give some more structural support to the structure and act as a shelf so that I can sit plywood on the sawhorse in a vertical fashion should I need to. This makes the horses much more versatile. In addition, we make every effort to obtain the raw materials as close to our production sites as possible in order to reduce fuel consumption in transportation. Take your time and make one component at a time and label them as you go around.
It’s this easy to carry 2 folding sawhorses in 1 hand with their comfortable handle and compact shape! Japanese carpentry prides itself on using advanced joinery techniques that require finely-planed wood surfaces. Both types incorporate flexibility and strength, and have a key feature: the ability to replace the 2×4 or 2×6 cross beam at top. Blocks of wood to temporarily hold the shelf in place while you fasten the hinged side of the shelf to the legs.
The standard measurements are given first followed by the metric measurements in brackets ( ). For example: 2×4 (100mm x 50mm). The horses in the illustrations required 2- 10 foot 2X6 boards, which were ripped to 2 3/4 inches wide, yielding 40 feet (12.2 m) of lumber. I determined that I should place the top of the leg one inch below the top of the T beam to make sure. Cut them using a Dremel Ultra-Saw, which can make simple straight cuts like these but is also perfect for wood flush cuts, grinding and cutting metal by switching out the included attachments.
Keep in mind that when you make the angled cuts, you’ll lose a little bit of height. During the creation of the I-beams — used to improve stability and rigidity of the sawhorses in this case — George divulges a handy tip to easily keep track of the center line of long boards when making connections from the outside edge. Try to get them down about 1/4 inch below the surface of the wood and then make sure you don’t cut that deep when you cut across your sawhorses. Putting an additional 2×4 flat on top of the horse will give you a ‘sacrificial’ piece of wood, that you can replace when it gets chewed up by your saw.