Cutting Picture Frame Moulding

When you begin your picture framing project, many of the materials you plan to use are not in the condition necessary to use them. Cut angles in the crown moulding with a miter saw, or use a miter box in conjunction with a wood saw or a coping saw. The advantage to cutting crown in position is you don’t have to muck around with obscure angles. If you are cutting with a circular saw or hand saw, you can then just cut the line. Holding a one inch piece right on the corner, I measure how long I need my pieces of baseboard.

Miter Box and Hand Saw—This is not a mechanical saw, but one that is hand powered A good choice for larger trim work, but not for intricate precise angles. Read the labeling on the package and choose a blade designed for cross-cutting trim on a power miter box. A 2° to 5° undercut helps if the ceiling is going uphill or if you have to alter the spring angle of the crown. You’ll want to turn your miter saw all the way to the 45° on the left or right.

For this first piece, both ends will be squared off and cut at 90° (or a 0° angle on your saw) while the molding rests flat on your saw (on flat). You hold your templates up in the corner you are trying to cut crown molding for and figure out what is what. The difference between using a compound miter saw (has blade tilt adjustment) versus a miter saw is that you can lay your crown molding flat on its back, face up and set a miter and blade tilt angle.

When I’m working my way around the room measuring, I have a scrap of base that I can lay up on either side of the corner, and scribe the outside of the miter joint intersection on the tape. Then all you have to do is make standard 45 or 22-1/2 degree miters, leaving the blade perpendicular to the saw bed. Make sure that your miter saw’s dust duct will fit right into the opening of the bag.

The new construction jobs I’ve been on in Brentwood, BelAir, BeverlyHills, call for the wall trim (base, crown, panel) to be cut at the angle called for by the plans. The trick to getting a perfect cut is to position the two pieces as they will be when installed, overlap the ends to be cut and then cut through both pieces at the same time. Or run a baseboard upside down to add more complexity and provide more nailing surface.

To cope this joint you need to trace the shape of the trim and cut it out so this piece will fit snugly against the other. Use the crown molding you plan on installing in your home to create your templates because they not only make determining your cuts easier, they also come in handy when you are installing your crown. Perhaps only if you’re trying to cut through the last little 1/16th of an inch.

Those looking to use eBay for their molding needs should learn how to search, sort results, and research the seller before making a purchase. Keep the molding clamped to a sawhorse or hold it in place with your knee while you work with the saw. With all of the advantages the coped joint method has to offer, no one has ever come forward to tell us they just love cutting across the width of a huge piece of hard maple crown with an old fashioned coping saw. Focusing specifically on the cutting process, users need a power miter saw, handsaw, and tape measure. Another good tip is to make sure to cut a VERY small whole in your caulking tube.

I cut all of my crown molding this way and will never go back to standing it up. A simple method for not making the wrong cut is that the outside corners are always on the right side of the blade. While caulk can close up a small gap, it is better to cut the joint to fit tightly as the caulk will fail over the pieces together, and then make the necessary adjustments in the mating piece. Those interested in creating their own molding from scratch should seek the tutelage of a professional.

The following two chart shows settings are for all U.S. Standard Crown Molding with 52° and 38° angles, and assume that the angle between the wall is 90°. Again, the trim is mitered at 45 degrees, but the crown moulding has a sharp point extending away from the wall, without the profile and material thickness exposed to the space. When you cut window and door casing you typically place the back of the trim on the table surface. You’re math works, but you’re measuring from the 90 angle (labeled as 0) on your saw instead of measuring from the fence. Step 2 Before coping the next piece, cut an inside miter at 45 degrees to expose the molding’s profile.

It is probably basic geometry, and I need some help to make this a measure-twice cut once job rather than by trial and error. The only time I will abandon this good old technique is when the molding is too big to sit up in my saw, when the blade or the bottom of the saw won’t clear. Look at the line where the angled face meets the front of the molding: it’s a perfect rendition of the profile of the molding – now just cut with your coping saw following that line. Also, if cutting to fit an outside corner, both pieces need to be cut at an angle so that they fit perfectly flush against one another.

I then take the definitively correct piece to the miter saw and play with all the possible positions until it will fit the saw cut. Two of the most useful are the backsaw and coping saw The backsaw has a long, rectangular blade and a large rigid handle that prevents the saw from kinking during use. Also, if you corners are our of square, you’ll either have to make micro adjustments to your saw settings to get a perfect corner joint.

When the molding is too big to fit into the saw standing up, then you have to lie it down on the table and use a compound mitre/bevel cut, and even a sliding cut if the molding is very large. It’s much easier to get great results when you can hold the molding in place with one hand and drive the nails with the other. The other, called coping , is a two step process, first to cut a simple miter and then to use a coping saw to undercut the miters. I always make my first cut with the bottom against the fence, if there’s a right-hand inside corner or a left-hand outside corner. The next piece of molding needs to be cut at a 45 degree angle to fit the corner.

If trim around windows and doors begins to separate at the corners, you can squeeze some wood glue at the joint and then pre-drill a pilot hole and drive a 6d finishing nail through the side of one molding piece into the end of the other. So let me back up, tell you how I did it, and explain why crown molding went from one of my most dreaded projects to one I’ll surely be doing again.

You can hand nail the material, but you should be extra careful not to miss with the hammer, in which case you will dent or damage the wood. Most corners will be roughly 90 degrees or only an angle or so off that mark, but for the sake of accuracy, it is important that you find out the precise measurement before proceeding. These bevel and miter settings are correct if the back is parallel; if not you might have to make small adjustment on either bevel or miter or both to get good fit. We’ve seen enough house listings that say crown molding throughout” to know that it’s a nice selling point – and now we’re one room closer to a fully crowned house.

I bought an inexpensive used miter saw for this purpose only I had no idea how to make the frames. But I’ve also seen an awful lot of baseboard crews and visited historic homes, where I’ve never found any evidence of this looking in the room” approach. After the trim is installed, there is no more finishing required except for touching up the nail holes and some cut ends. The first corner is like the rest of the baseboard in the Momplex – just an outside mitered corner. Drill a 1/8” hole through the baseboard and into framing, right where you want to shim, pull the base away, and buzz a T-15-drive flathead into that 1/8” hole.

So using the roof sheathing angles for the miter angle on the side of the crown molding makes sense. When I built the test jig with the crown blocks nailed to the side of the eave and rake lines I thought the model was more of a study for Square Tail Fascia angles. Use a coping saw, which has a very thin blade that allows you to cut tight curves, to cut along the line. Great job on the video and excellent scenarios of how to fix the issue when running into these problems.

If you need to make an intermediate piece on an outside ninety degree angle, say on a rounded corner, two cuts at 22.5 degrees will add up to one 45 degree angle. Other comparable saws include the rip saw and crosscut saw The coping saw, on the other hand, is smaller and contains a strong, very thin blade that is useful in making intricate cuts and preparing the molding for installation.

After the cut is complete you will see that the bottom edge of the crown molding is the longest part of the molding. Cope joints are also faster to install than miters—the pieces of molding don’t have to be cut exactly the right length; in fact, coped material can be cut a little bit long. The angles are absolutely perfect, every time; your joints are absolutely perfect every time.

Clamp a stop block on the fence so that when you slide your piece of molding up to the stop block, it will be sitting exactly as you want it on the wall. Move the moulding just past the slot in the saw fence, enough so that a 45-degree cut can be made at the end of the stick (Figure E-3). Where two pieces of trim meet at an inside corner, you may be tempted to cut each at a 45-degree bevel and butt them together. Prepare the miter box – if you’re making one yourself – by measuring a 45-degree angle on the top edges of the two boards that form the sides of the box, using a combination square.