The kit contains the revolutionary blade guarding system that was included on all CRAFTSMAN® 10-inch radial arm saws made by Emerson Tool Co. since January 1993. Trapper, I still have a warm spot in my heart for those old wrinkle grey Craftsman’s w/ swirled steel look. Using the example of a rip blade again: put a rip blade on a radial arm saw and even if you rotate the carriage to rip, it’s going to want to lift the wood up off the table. I have heard some reports of users of this saw feeling that the anti-kickback pawls are a bit stiff and in some case have marked the workpiece. But a better solution is to build a small table that’s the same height as your table saw (Photo 3). Or if room permits, build a permanent outfeed platform. Dislikes: Unlocking the table causes a pop-up tab to rise above the cutting surface.
The elevation handwheel has a fast, smooth action, and the flip of a lever unlocks the blade to allow bevel cuts. Reach the open-ended wrench that came with the saw between the blade and motor housing and hook it onto the saw arbor to hold it steady. The new guard systems are easier to remove and replace as needed, and include true riving knives (which ride up and down with the blade when its height is changed). This is a brushed stainless steel riving knife that was designed to fit this type saw.
Most blades are manufactured so that when you do this, the manufacturer’s name and blade specifications are facing out when the blade is properly installed. The splitter my saw was shipped with was (in my opinion) actually a safety hazard and it ended up in the trash. Kickback happens when the blade catches the workpiece and violently throws it back to the front of the saw, towards the operator. I am currently workin on a 1 sided sled, that has a fixed piece the same height on the opposite side of the blade, so I can crosscut with a blade guard still in place.
The table does extend just enough, but you risk damaging the blade or having the board kick back at you. As for the $100 deal, it sounds like they are just doing some due diligence and if anyone gets hurt on one of their old saws, they are no longer liable. Ideally the blade of the table saw should extend higher than the board being cut by about a quarter of an inch (7.5 mm); this lessens the risk of kickback and other injuries and enables smooth cutting. Thus it is harder for the wood to hit the back of the blade and get lifted if it does pinch or rotate. If you see a gap at the top or bottom of the triangle, use the tilt wheel to move the blade until the gap disappears.
Hopefully this evening or tomorrow, I’ll do a short video on my TS set up. I have an auxiliary fence, after market splitter, and overarm blade guard. The wheeled stand is a standard feature; it folds and unfolds easily, and the big wheels make moving the saw as easy as rolling a bike along a sidewalk. Most blades have a little runout that has no impact on cutting performance but can give you fits when trying to adjust the blade to the miter slot. In March 2010, a jury awarded $1.5 million to a man who severed his fingers on a table saw that was not equipped with SawStop.
Whereas the table saw will cut away limbs and may bring you to hospital after a kickback, the Shaper does all that plus will send you right into the grave if you stand at the wrong place at the wrong time (kickback from wrong RPM, one standing aside of the machine – or use of cutters which are not certified for manual feed. There is very little potential for kickback, because the part of the blade that can generate kick back can’t get to the wood.