There are many different sizes of these wood bottom planes, often called transitionals (they bridged the all wood and all metal designs), than there are of the metal ones. A couple of smart hammer blows on the heel of the plane and the wedge and iron came free. The British double iron planes were almost always bedded at 47.5º while American double iron planes are 45º. The larger metallic planes have a small machine screw at the front part of the tote, while the smaller metallic planes have a raised nib cast in the main casting. Complex molding planes are found in just about every size and profile combination. The longer length of the jointer usually insures a truer-planed surface than is obtained with the fore plane which is shorter in length.
This is a very timely post for me. I’ve just pulled apart a Stanley transitional plane I found at a flea market to clean up the metal parts. They also make the plane much more comfortable to use than later planes lacking this detail. So the next series on my blog will be about building the wooden plane above and how to build one from scratch. These low-angle planes slice through wood more easily, but may cause tear-out along the grain. I recently made this wooden plane using the gubbins from a bad eBayed Stanley to make it with. A short base plane will ride up and down along these ”waves” without really taking off the high spots.
These planemakers were so proud of their craft, they would often imprint their names and their towns on the fronts, or toe, of their planes. Stanley No. 5-1/2 Jack Plane : For historical reasons, some people categorize this plane as a good multi-purpose smoothing plane, but I’ll just leave it under fore planes. There are a vast amount of other special-purpose hand planes that I don’t have the time to mention in detail here.
Anyway I’ve done some searching on making irons and haven’t come up with much, I did find one thread about making irons for students but it wasn’t what I am looking for. On some planes the knob is used to adjust the size of the mouth by allowing a sliding portion of the sole to be moved back or forward to accomplish this. This plate is similar to the regular cap iron (for bevel side down planes) where the slot in it permits the adjusting fork to engage and then allows adjustment.
Of course, you don’t need to acquire them all at once- get one or two planes and try them out. If your plane’s iron can’t be adjusted for a fine cut, you have a cap iron from a metallic plane. Shoulder Plane and the Bullnose Plane, although having similar requirements, are shorter, either be-cause the work surface itself is short or because they are designed for use in a restricted space. I recommend a low angle block plane so you can work difficult end grain more easily.
A smooth plane ranges from 6½ to 10½ inches long, and is used for the final finishing on wood. Click here to see pictures of some of the Chaplin’s planes in my collection, and here to see some pictures of #3 size original patent planes. I often find the brass depth adjustment nut on these planes to be difficult to operate, especially on the smaller models. To allow the plane to use the Bailey cutter depth adjustment feature on a wood bottom plane – there simply isn’t enough room for these features if the cutter were put at a lower pitch.
Since the corners have japanning on them, it appears that this was intentional and was probably some feeble attempt to make the lever cap slide into the body easier without what normallay are square corners digging into the wooden body. Most metal bench planes, and some larger wooden ones, are designed with a rear handle known as a tote. These screws, over time, tended to strip the wood, making it impossible for the frog to be secured to the plane.