In part five of this this six-part build a deck series, you’ll learn how to build deck stairs – including calculating for and measuring stringers, cutting stringers and assembling the stairs. Given the choice, the tools, and the right situation, I would prefer to rout the risers and treads into the finished skirt, then glue, wedge, and fasten them from the underside. Typically the dadoes are tapered on the underside of the tread and the back side of the risers then shimmed and glued into place. Or use a partial template that covers everything but the last stair or two and measure and layout the last two stairs without scribing them. We simply work our up the stairs tread by tread until we have completed our install.
I start at the bottom of the stairs and put on the risers first using Liquid Nails and a level for front to back and side to side. It’s a good point and would take a lot of care, but once the hole is cut, you attach backer board behind the riser (from underneath the stair) to have a surface to adhere the tile. In this video you will learn what are the stair parts needed to refurbish the landing area ( winder steps and winder step extensions ) and a simple method of installing these stair parts.
I should have had this first, but measure the dimensions of the stair risers, measure again, and do it a third time for good measure. The stair nosing is basically that piece that sits right on top of the riser which overhangs slightly at the edge of the step. Most polyurathanes do not come to full strenth for 24-48 hours, so I’d highly recommend that you let them sit for a day or two before attempting to install.. I know you’re eager but patience with prevent premature denting and damage to the finish of your wood stairs. But, let me share with you what I learned about how to install wood stairs and how our installation went.
Fitting the skirt to the risers and treads after stands up to my line of reasoning. With the availability of dedicated stair machines and high powered routers often its less expensive and a better job to pre manufacture” the stairs and have them delivered to the job, or build them that way on site. Screw a 2×6 the width of the stringers to the backside of the stringers with two deck screws into each board. The idea is to have a smooth and clean set of substairs to install the new retro fit stair treads.
After living with plywood steps for nearly a month, I noticed my husband preferred to spend his fall weekends watching football on the couch, not renting a table saw to cut risers. Cutting the stair nose is just a matter of cutting it to fit snug on each end, and cut the ends to follow the angle of the wall if needed. Defying gravity, this stair’s 4-foot cantilever is made possible by steel’s tensile strength and by welding the treads to embedded steel plates in the concrete wall. There is no room to have the uncut skirt board extend beyond the top of the stair.
It is critical that you ensure all the rough construction is straight, plumb, level, and tight before proceeding to install the risers, treads, and stringers. Once you see the drill mark, we attached a wood bore to our drill and cut out our new holes from the top of our stair treads. Provide handrails on each side of the stairway, especially where the stairway includes combinations of rectangular and tapered treads which require users to move from larger to smaller tread depths, depending on where one walks on the stair width.
Hold the riser flush with the top of the stair step above it and nail it in place. Not many calculators are set up to give you fractions, and a readout like 7.65 isn’t much help for setting the carpenter’s square and stair gauges. Before we could start drilling, it was time to install the new treads and risers! It is mainly up to you if you want to put the entire riser and tread pieces in first right before you install the nosing or if you will complete all of the steps fully before you move on to the next. At the correct depth, your gauge should touch both the front edge of your treads and the front of your stair riser (below).
It is best to install risers one at a time, as you want a precise fit and older staircases will have slight differences from step to step. Since the top stair was flush with the concrete at the top of the stairs, we did take out the top step. We fit the risers flush with the top of the stairs and when the stairs went in, it was nice and snug for the most part. Just set your oak scriber sticks slightly more that the highest riser and slightly longer that the longest tread. Starting with the first step, Justin measured the stair set to cut the first risers.
Being a stair to the basement there was the usual amount of objects to cut around and clear. Around the right hand corner of the landing is the rest of the main stair (closed both sides) and it has four risers and three treads and will need returns with goosenecks at the bottom. Stair nosing may or may not be required by your local building code, but nosing is a good idea because it makes walking up the steps feel more natural.
Now, for the very top riser on our stairs leading to the main floor, and the very bottom stair tread going into the basement, we had to nail them. You will also need to screw the top nosing into place, in order to properly secure it. To do this, cover the nosing with a strip of clear plastic tape, to protect the laminate. The stringers can be notched, or cleats made of metal or wood can be attached to the inside of stringers to support the treads. The base can be a small concrete slab, a small deck or even a treated 2×12 leveled in over a 6-in. It can be either treads butted to the riser or the riser sitting on top of the stair tread.
Simply attach the stairs at the header in the stair opening and shim underneath the bottom riser until the treads are perfectly level. They are long enough that they fit through the original pressboard stairs but short enough that they did not pop through the new stair treads and risers. I have never laid treads and risers but I have the experience listed above and a fully equipped wood shop. I couldn’t afford to get stained oak hardwood stairs put in, it would have cost a lot more $$.
However, any staircase is going to need one extra riser because you may have 6 stair steps but there is always one more riser attaching to your main floor… Yup, that extra riser was not included and Dan had to run to Home Depot to buy one. You just might tear off the old carpet on your stairs and already have pine risers underneath, many people do. Fill the hollow cores and at least 12 in. (300 mm) behind the blocks or more to accommodate the next stair riser with wall rock. Use the same process as with the risers to get a precise fit – scribing lines if necessary with a compass and pencil on an oversized tread until a perfect fit is achieved.
I read an article a while back in JLC where Jed Dixon was putting the risers on top of the treads. I was planning to scribe treads and risers to skirts until coming across this article…now I’m rethinking how to approach this. The calculator button sequence is easy: Just enter the total rise in feet, inches, and any fraction, then press Rise and Stair. I mount stair stringers directly to 2×12 rim joists or to a header set directly beneath 2×8 or 2×10 rim joists.
We removed the carpeting on our stairs last year and he installed new treads and risers for us. Figure 5. Mark the bottom cut on the stringer so the bottom riser is shorter than the other risers by the thickness of the tread stock. To curve the wall out from the stair location, break the wings off the backs of blocks and place them tight together, following the layout on your approved plans. There is no need to remove the old staircase, no need to plunge cut into the substrate nosing, no need to patch & putty the mortise holes and no objection for cutting the original stair frame. Once each stair riser is free, number it in order using a pencil mark on the rear.
Pre-built stairs were set up on stage with the treads and risers butting against the drywall on the closed side. In order to install the nosing, simply apply glue towards the subfloor and then press it firmly to place while the tapered end is overlapping the thread piece. These days, anything goes but risers first is the traditional (and the correct) way. Honestly, I’d rather spend a day learning how to cut and install hardwood stairs than go on a wild shopping spree. Regardless of the method that you use, just take your time and install the laminate flooring carefully.
Each stair riser will need a minimum of 6 in. (150 mm) of base material under it that extends a minimum of 6 in. (150 mm) behind the retaining wall block. Because these stair tread are prefinished, we can walk on them immediately after installation and there’s no messy polyurethane to deal with. I start by taking a rough measurement from the elevation of the deck’s surface plumb down to where I judge the landing should go. I divide that number by 7 3/4 inches (the maximum permitted riser height) and round the answer to the next highest integer to determine the number of risers I’ll need.
Then screw through the back of the deck rim into the skirts with three more deck screws (Photo 8). Center the middle stringer and screw it into the rim with two deck screws. There are a few different ways to cut the over hang off the stair Using saws such as a sawzall, Skil saw or even a jig saw can work. Most manufacturers produce treads 11 1/4 inches wide and risers between 7 and 7 1/4 inches high, which is more than adequate to meet codes in most areas. Nail the stair stringer connectors into place then nail the 2×12 stair stringers to the connector side flange and bottom.
You will need to cut away the overhang from each rough construction stair step so it is flush with the riser backing below it. Use a jigsaw or sabresaw to cut all the way to the wall on each end. Even though the 1×2 works better than stair nuts, the eased edge of the framing lumber and the presence of edge wane still make it hard to align the points by looking straight down at the square. And Lavs, I believe the skirt after treads and risers is a perfectly good way to do it as long as the stair is set up correctly. I am not even going to attempt to provide a detailed tutorial on how to install new stair treads with the NuStair system because for once, I DON’T HAVE TO!
What’s interesting in this stair is that the open risers are kept narrow, 4 inches or less, to comply with the local building code and still be open. First… We subtract the riser height from the finished deck surface, which gives the location of the top of the upper tread. The biggest reason is that the 2″ fir risers are certainly going to shrink away from a scribed or housed stringer.